- 21700
- dual switch
- aggressive knurling on tube
- no flats on tube to allow for thinner tube
- big deep single emitter reflector
- thick LED mounting shelf for good heatsink
- compatible with stainless convoy bezel
- tailcap with 3 thumb recesses instead of 2
- optional all stainless tailcap
Hold on, they are not asking for suggestions for a whole new light. Lol
Sounds like a regression to the mean, cncyana, with a couple extra large cup-holders thrown in.
There are a fair number of options for single emitter hosts. True, most of those aren’t for 21700 hosts, but at this point, there are more single emitter 21700 hosts than there are three emitter 21700. Besides, what set the C8F apart in the first place was that it was a triple.
Quite frankly, the head could be pretty much left intact except to bore it out where the battery-tube screws into it.
Then, just make the tube ever so slightly wider to fit a 20 or 21, and widen and bore out the tailcap to match. Done. It’ll now take a 20 or 21 instead of an 18.
I reported Sofirn all the suggestiopns a few weeks ago so now it is only up to them what they coming up with.
Hi all!
I got a message today from Sofirn. 21700 chosen. That is confirmed. And the driver size will be bigger to make modding easier. They want dual switch but it is not decided yet. Maybe it will be dual switch or switched tailcap can be bought separately. They told me there will be some changes in UI but I don’t know exactly the changes yet.
:+1: … Thanks for the update. 
What about single emitter version will they get 21700 too ?
There is no info about it. I will ask. And also single emitter side switch version.
Dual switch and 21700! Holy cow! Sofirn is on fire!
Yes!
Buying some 21700s now.
What do you thing is appropriate, the Samsung 48G which can do 10A continous? Maybe the 40T which should do 20+A continuous?
The 40T would be the best balance between power and capacity, especially in a triple FET like this.
Kind of like a 21700 30Q.
If you want a regulated driver however, the 48G would be your best bet.
And the 30T would be kind of dangerous with low enough resistance contacts at startup.
You sound undecided.
I thought you just bought some. We’re you just exaggerating? Lol
If not, what did you buy and did you get a decent price?
Since I already have 20700A cells, I’m still undecided whether I should just buy 21700s, or just use it with 20700As. I do not like buying excessive amounts of cells if I already have a bunch of almost new ones.
I didn’t buy it in the end on the Sunway store: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-Original-Sunway-21700-3-7V-4000mAh-40A-discharger-Power-batteries-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery/3173029_32855373702.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.5d7d69d4sKl14V
These are based on the Samsung 40T 30A rated cells.
Apparently, they are legit and ship to Canada, but I think I’m just going to stick with using my Sanyo NCR20700A cells, and not buy any 21700s, for now anyway.
I would use 20700 for now and wait at least until Sony shows their 21700.
I just tried a Samsung 30T in a Lucky Sun F3X that has 3 XP-L emitters, tail current was 14.1A.
Oh. That is not so bad after all.
14A is a lot of current after all, and other parts of the light are going to offer higher resistance if the springs are bypassed with thick 18AWG wire.
That is why I don’t really want double switch. The clicky will add resistance and maybe melting down under those high currents. I know Dale has plenty lights without problems but I had a triple Nichia VG10 with 15A current and it melted the switch completely.
Cool that they went with the 21700, this will possibly be my first 21700 flashlight, so now I have to find someone who’d ship a 21700 cell to my country 
My suggestion for UI: run Andúril!
My plan B suggestion for UI: