To my surprise there wasn’t an existing topic about the Sofirn HS10 where I could add this. Don’t have too much to say about this headlamp yet (got it yesterday), except that the LH351D was the worst greenish tint I’ve seen in a while, so that had to go. Though I’d share some close-ups of the parts while removing the MCPCB from the host.
Fresnel lens removed (+ reference which Chinese characters are + and -)
Copious amounts of thermal paste
MCPCB size, it’s thinner than usual (SC21 MCPCB on the right)
After seeing what I had lying around, I went with a 519A 4500K as replacement. Eye balling the 519A 2700K as well, but don’t have those yet. This thing is small, initial impression as a headlamp is good and I would love to take this when hiking.
Before vs after (tint looks slightly different irl, but you get the idea)
Yeah dedoming is an option. Main reason for swapping instead is that I dislike the process of dedoming, mainly due to lack of a good way/tools to get a specific height. I’ve tried a few times and it never works out as I want (mostly my own fault). I find it easier to just reflow. And a slightly better light quality is always welcome for a headlight.
Early for conclusions, but I bet they’re indeed using a greener batch. Unfortunately.
Concerning the optic, I tend to agree with you. Also have a modded SP40 with 519A and both emitters come from Simon. Same for the Convoy T4 with 519A. In the HS10 the tint is more magenta towards the edges it seems. Not 100% sure it’s the optic, but pretty sure.
Specifically choose not to dedome since I want to keep the 4500K. I use this one for detailed close up work, such as electronics work (e.g. swapping) and want light that is neutral and keeps me focused. But I really like the small formfactor and low weight, so I ordered another one (they went for only 200 SEK this weekend on AE). That one will get a warm CCT, possibly dedomed 2700K 519A.
Another thing I tried is without the lens and use it as a mule. Maybe a little bit too wide beam and it gets pretty toasty due to the higher brightness needed. Or I’ll do this with a HS05 instead since that one produces a less wide beam (without reflector, deeper and smaller opening). But that’s for another day.
Need the Chinese characters to hook up a LT1 driver. I want to have power bank functionality, so I ended up buying the new driver. No documentation off course, but it does have those characters printed on the PCB. So this was a perfectly timed coincidence.
It rests directly on the higher edge around the mcpcb. This also means the screws you see are needed for keeping the mcpcb in place (no reflector pressing it down).
Got one <10$.
Compared to the C01S, same cct (4k) tint look similar at low level (a bit green) while become better at
100lm or higher.
I would like to use a domless Led, is a thicker pcb necessary to correctly collimate with the lens and reduce gap?
Since isn’t held down by the press of lens and my thicker 16mm pcb doesn’t have holes for screws, I would try use a 14mm one, maybe I can hook it to the fixing screws.
Oh Jon…
I had missed this long series of tests, many thanks!
I wanted to try with FFL351 (which I should receive).
I was wondering
if the gap between the emitter and lens can affect for the beam quality.
Since I don’t have experience with Fresnel lens.
Good point for 219b is that can reduce bright at low levels, guess with warmers one we could be reduced more.
But much less rings with LH351D and 519A.
Have you tried DC-fix or oveen paper to put between Lens?
I use DC fix on my HS10 (swapped to a domed 519A 3500K). The flat lens they use makes an ugly beam up close and the DC fix helps a lot.
I doubt using a domeless emitter will matter much for the beam quality. I wouldn’t worry about trying to adjust the height to compensate. If you have DC fix you could use that if the beam bothers you.
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