I recently bought a C8F. Is the 2.0 just a different battery tube plus tail switch, or are there driver changes as well? I seem to have low output on my c8f, but i will have to test my batteries to make sure they are not the limiting factor.
They are using Cree XP-Ls W2, the highest bin available at a 5300-5700k color temp, so neutral white.
A FET+7135 driver. Good efficiency on low modes, and very bright high modes that depend on battery voltage, and the resistance of the circuit. So, more battery+low resistance = higher brightness possible.
Oh that’s very interesting. Is there any place we can buy these W2 and W3 bin XP-L? Also I couldn’t find where Sofirn listed W2 bin. Some of their older flashlights, they specify V6 bin. If they transitioned to W2 bin, that would be very nice and makes their flashlight even more efficient than the competition.
what issues did yours have that warrant replacing? I’m now questioning the authenticity of my HG2s and VTC6s because i can’t get my c8f to draw more than ~3.6amps on my meter, even on turbo. My next hottest light is an S2 w/ 8x driver, which draws about 2.7, which is pretty close to spec, but not enough to tell me that it’s definitely the c8f and not the cells, or i suppose the resistance in my meter?
any insight, Tracy? tests to perform, or maybe a driver replacement?
@ownmyeyes, what kind of multimeter are you using? If it’s a regular multimeter with long leads, the resistance is going to increase dramatically. You need as thick current leads as possible that are short as possible to measure current accurately.
an innova 3320 with long leads, so that could be the culprit. i’ll hack together some heavier gauge short copper leads and give it another shot. it’s also possible that the difference between ~900 and ~2600 lumens is not as dramatic to my eyes as i expected…