Sofirn originally sent this torch for review in 2022 but I pushed it beyond its limits (28,987 lumens!) and broke the driver.
Here is my review of the second Sofirn Q8 Plus:
Sofirn originally sent this torch for review in 2022 but I pushed it beyond its limits (28,987 lumens!) and broke the driver.
Here is my review of the second Sofirn Q8 Plus:
Isnt that a rebadged Astrolux.
Nice review.
Yeah, it’s pretty much an Astrolux EC06. Sofirn, or the parent company Jinba, made it for Banggood under the brand Astrolux.
Sounds like someone has had boots on the ground and done their own research ![]()
Hi @TimMc, in the process of buying a Q8Plus, and just read through your excellent review. Thank you for it!
One question, tho: in its “Lumen measurement section”, you state that you measured the current by “connecting one Molicel P42A 21700 4200mAh cell”, and in the table further down, you state that on Turbo, you measured “37.70 A”.
This means that, with 3 cells in parallel (ie, normal operation for the light with 3 batteries inserted), each battery would need to supply 37.70/3= ~12.6A, and therefore using 3 cells like the Vapcell F58 (capable of supplying 15A each cell) should be more than enough for the standard light as received from the factory (ie, without spring bypasses etc), up to and including turbo, correct? Please confirm.
TIA for the clarification! ![]()
Yes. It’d be about 12A per cell when 3 cells are used.
Thanks for the prompt response, @TimMc! Much appreciated!
Thanks for the thorough review.
You mentioned that this Particular light that you got came with flat tops. Prior to that they were button tops.
You mentioned there was a problem with contact when charging. Is the issue just when ONBOARD charging or does it also have trouble when using the flashlight? Thank you
Thank you!
Another user on Reddit complained about the three flat top cells not all making contact. You may need to somehow align them perfectly.
This would impact charging and regular use because one cell may be disconnected. There’s less capacity if this happens.
The cells are charged in parallel.
Sofirn used to publish a screenshot of the data sheet of their batteries on their website.
Thanks. Does that pertain to all flat top cells? I heard other users talk about Lishen, P45B and other flat top cells they didn’t mention any issues.
I forgot to mention I ordered from aliexpress. The picture on the website shows button top batteries. Whether I get them or not is yet to be determined. I should get the flashlight early next week. Thanks
I’ll have to wait and see about that and if the light is bypassed.
I can get p42a button tops. That’s another concern with people mention their light getting fried that were modded and using more High drain batteries.
Flat tops that are lower than the insulating ring and the wrap might not work. The plastic ring and wrap might tear when twisting the head on. The brass ring on the head will cut the wrap.
If the flat top sticks out slightly, it will work.
The one I bought showed button tops in the ad picture. I got the black Sofirn branded 5000 mAh flat tops. The tops do protrude a bit and they seem to work fine. Certainly if the positive end is recessed at all, I can see it being an issue.
My tail cap isn’t modified either. Since the batteries are raised like you said they work fine. I just have no idea how many amps they are??
Since it’s not modified I wonder if p45b would fry the light? Any thoughts.?
Photos of your modified and unmodified and my unmodified tail caps.
The tail does not look bypassed, so the springs will probably be the first point of failure with high-drain cells. Even stock cells (unspecified current, so probably low) heat up the springs enough to be scalding to the touch.
Without bypassed springs and checking the MOSFETs to determine their model/quality, I would not recommend using turbo with high-drain cells, not for more than a few seconds.
Thanks.. I will stick with 12 amp cells. I set thermal limit as high as it could be. Tail stand for 2 minutes got very very hot. Actual use it would never get that hot because I would turn it down.
Maybe a stupid question. Where do those black wires on the modified cap connect to on the other side. I thought about doing the mod, but if they just connect to the bottom of the spring… the springs would still be weak points.
BTW there is this:
It is from quite a while ago. A current listing shows “Maximum discharge current: 2C (10000mA)”. So they seem to be consistent. You can probably figure that the Sofirn 5000 mAh cells are close to 10 amp rated. Of course that doesn’t mean that they cant’ deliver beyond that for short periods… That number is (likely) a maximum sustained discharge rating.
The wires go from the battery-spring contact point (i.e., vertex) of the spring to the pad you see in the photos, so that the spring is bypassed entirely.
Thanks. That would make for a neater install than having to solder to the bottom of the spring.
The question is, is it worth doing if I am just going to blow /burn up something else in the light??
If you’re using stock cells, bypassing the spring gains you a bit more efficiency, which could make it worth doing. I’ve bypassed mine.
If you’re using high current cells, bypass is must as otherwise you are pretty much guaranteed spring collapse. Some folks have reported the MOSFETs blowing, while some folks didn’t have any issues, it’s largely up to luck. If your FETs are AON6512, they have very high resistance in the low voltage regime and can be expected to fail if one is not judicious about turbo usage. At 3V, the resistance is quite literally off-the-charts.