Yeeeeeah, something tells me that’s not normal.
Unseat, jiggle, reseat all rings, drivers, etc.? Maybe something’s pushing on something that’s at least partly shorting out.
Is the switch frame glued?
Hello guys,
I purchased two SC31 Pro’s back in August of 2020. One of them is still 100% OK as good as new, except for some normal wear of the anodization. The other one is still working OK, but the button LED is dead.
Recently I purchased SC21 Pro. This is a great little flashlight. It’s still Andúril 1 though. I have a plan to Reflash Andúril 2.0 
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After years of using SC31 Pro my main preferences for EDC flashlight : Andúril, button-LED, magnetic tail cap. And integrated USB-C charging.
I also have a Wurkkos TS10, Andúril 2.0 
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It doesn’t have button-LED but the Aux LEDs are great as locator. And the tail switch is so fun and tactile.
Thanks Sofirn and Wurkkos for your great flashlights.
I also have a Sofirn HS10 , a fun little head lamp. I really like the integrated USB-C charging.
Is the new SC31 Pro better than the old version?
(with Andúril 2.0, attiny1616, exposed flashing pad)
Is it compatible with USB-C to USB-C charging? The old one can only be charged with USB-A to USB-C.
Can’t say about that BLF-L, but as noted on another thread, under $18 WITH battery, is an insane deal and a BLF superstar for what it is/price performance. I love this light and just bought 2 more. Link here: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804979640708.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.4344482aVfMs6i&algo_pvid=c9040068-256e-45db-8038-ad8e19ee56be&algo_exp_id=c9040068-256e-45db-8038-ad8e19ee56be-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2156.74%2117.59%21%21%2156.74%21%21%402101f49317048531900396133eea9e%2112000031941446470%21sea%21US%21799170465%21&curPageLogUid=rI5bDKoqj3C1&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
I was looking at the SC31T, which is just $13 USD (with battery), but for $5 USD more to get Anduril in the SC31 Pro? No brainer, IMHO. Unless of course, you want a non-Anduril flashlight for a muggle. 
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I think the 2 switches on the SC31T might be confusing for a Muggle.
I think the SC18 would be a cheaper and better choice for a Muggle.
I currently have 4 SC31 Pro, one of which I will be turning into a Triple.
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Interesting. Is the diameter about the same as an FW3A? Are you leveraging an existing MCPCB for the mod? Is it a conversion others have already done?
I will use a Carclo 105xx triple optic which is the same optic the FW3A uses.
However the MCPCB is a 20mm triple that is custom machined smaller to fit inside the SC31 Pro.
I will also be using a custom machined copper spacer.
Yes, others have done this before.
Here’s some pictures of one that I did for a buddy of mine(he stripped and polished it) I added the triple and added aux:
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Fantastic work! Looks amazing. Total class above stock.
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Interesting. Do you know which anduril firmware is used (hw model)?
SP36 t1616
I recently flashed mine with “anduril.2023-12-03.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex”
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Hello everyone, I hope you’re doing well and still enjoying your SC31 Pro.
Let’s revive this old thread for a little bit. Hopefully it’s gonna be more useful to someone looking to update their old SC31 Pro (t85 driver).
Success! My SC31 Pro now runs Anduril 2. Flashed without removing the driver!
Hi SammysHP, I copied your sentence 
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Thanks everyone, for sharing the pictures of SC31 Pro driver, old (by now it’s old) version, t85, no flashing pads.
Old but gold.
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Thanks Tom_E,
for sharing SC31 Pro driver pictures :
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Thanks again Tom_E,
for sharing more driver pictures :
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Thanks TimMc,
for sharing SC31 Pro driver pictures :
Thanks also for the link to amishbill’s SP36 thread :
SP36 head disassembly, driver, t85
And post number 8: HARDWARE, SOFTWARE, STUFF, IMAGES, Reflashing t85
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Thanks SammysHP, for sharing the method of flashing SC31 Pro without removing the driver!
Post number 308
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The first time I read SammysHP’s flashing SC31 Pro w/o removing the driver I was like
“what!”,
“really?”,
“wow!”,
“that’s like doing a very complicated surgical operation on a terminator robot. LoL”,
“nah, I’m not gonna do that, I’ve just killed my Mateminco PD90S’ attiny85.”
My previous successful experiences were with t1616, UPDI, 3-wire to the super-easy-access flashing pads. TS10, TS21, TS25, HD10, SP10 Pro, SC21 Pro.
Newer SC31 Pro (t1616) would be easy too I guess.
t1616, UPDI, 3-wire, easy-access flashing pads.
Old flashlights, t85, USBASP, 6-wire, No flashing pads = really tricky.
I knew it from the PD90S, which was already very fiddly even with exposed flashing pads.
But I couldn’t leave my SC31 Pros alone with Anduril-1. They’re my first Anduril flashlights and I still like them very much.
I built a rudimentary setup to connect the USBASP programmer to the t85. This was the hardest part.
Got to use pogo pins, with correct pitch of 1.27mm.
At first I used regular jumper wires but the connections with USBASP programmer were unreliable. Also very difficult to create the correct pitch for the pogo pins.
Jumper wires are too large.
I then used the ribbon cable that came with the USBASP programmer, 10-pin connector on each end.
Single large connector connects to the programmer, very secure, so much better than multiple small connectors of the jumper wires.
Ribbon cable has smaller diameter wires, suitable to connect with the pogo pins.
I also used 1.27mm header pin connector, removed the OG pins, stuck 4 pogo pins into the empty connector.
Together with the ribbon wires it made the correct pitch of 1.27mm.
I couldn’t find my mini vise but luckily I have a few locking pliers and other stuff to hold the flashlight and the pogo pins adapter.
Admittedly It didn’t work right away. Required some careful adjustments to establish reliable connections. But afterward it’s easy.
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AVRDUDE. To test the connections :
avrdude -p t85 -c usbasp -n
After some repeated successful connection tests, then flashing the actual hex :
avrdude -c usbasp -p t85 -u -Uflash:w:a2.2024-04-20.sp36.hex
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Success with the first unit. Factory Reset, Advanced UI, set Manual Memory, etc etc …
Then flashing the other SC31 Pro. It’s successful as well.
Both of my SC31 Pros (t85) now run the latest Anduril-2
I really like the smooth soft ON/OFF.
And the candle mode, very pleasing and relaxing, IMO it looks more realistic than with Anduril-1.
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Per 2024-12-01, Latest hex files, GitHub :
GitHub, Anduril : https://github.com/ToyKeeper/anduril/releases/tag/2024-04-20
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For SC31 Pro (t85) :
anduril.2024-04-20.sofirn-sp36.hex
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ChangeLog : https://github.com/ToyKeeper/anduril/blob/trunk/ChangeLog.md
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From the ChangeLog :
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I used a few pliers and a plastic clamp to hold the flashlight, pogo pin adapter, e-switch. For a more clear setup please refer to SammysHP’s post, he has better pictures.
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Windows 10, AVRDUDE :
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This particular image is very helpful :
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I my case I didn’t use SOIC8. I used a custom pogo pin adapter. Pogo pin tips touching the t85 legs inside SC31 Pro, access is via e-switch hole.
The basic principle is the same. Pin-to-pin connections are the same as SP36 t85.
It’s probably easier with the driver pulled out of the head but I avoided that route because I don’t have a suitable soldering tip to desolder/resolder LED wires on the MCPCB.
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Edits :
- Edited a little bit, for better clarity.
- Added picuters for rough reference.
- More details from amishbill’s post.
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