How ’bout that pocket clip? 
Any feedback on our feedback?
No feedback so far except for Barry's feedback that Sofirn will take our suggestions into consideration. I also forwarded ToyKeeper's valuable input to them, so they are pretty much aware of what kind of clip we ask for.
Update: Barry said the clip will be the same as the one used in SC21. I guess it's too late for any design changes. :((
I wonder what SP10-v30 is? 
I must be odd… the original D4V2 would do 1/150 with dim red aux, also the D4SV2 would as well. Those are both of my extreme dark bedside lights. The new driver Hank uses, the 5A CC + FET will only reliably go down to 3/150 and that was way to bright for deep night uses. So, I caught and released a D4V2 with 219b’s. But. I have serious eye problems, to much output when night adjusted and everything is gone for about 30 seconds for me.
Hmm, that’s unfortunate. Sounds like Sofirn probably made a bunch of hat clips for the SC21 and needs to get rid of them before considering any new designs.
The first two are typically referred to as a moon mode. It illuminates things to roughly the same brightness that the moon does.
The last one is usually handled on other lights by adding a button LED or aux LEDs. These stay on whenever the main LEDs are off, so the light will be easy to find in the dark. They also frequently indicate how much battery charge remains.
In terms of numbers, the boundaries are fuzzy, but in approximate terms, the low output levels are:
- 1 to 10 lm: low mode
- 0.1 to 1 lm: moon mode (usually below 0.5)
- 0.01 to 0.1 lm: firefly mode
Moon modes are useful for seeing the ground in front of you without waking anyone or compromising night vision. Firefly modes are typically too low for that, but are still useful for locating the light.
The button / aux LEDs are generally in the range of 0.01 to 0.1 lm, while the main LEDs on most Anduril lights typically go down to about 0.2 lm. So the entire range is usually covered. But this light has nowhere to put aux LEDs, and it sounds like it might not have a button LED either.
I was bothered by the poor low modes on his linear drivers too… so I finally fixed it. At least, as much as the hardware allows. This involved a few different changes:
- Dramatically increased the resolution of the low end of the ramp, as documented here.
- Re-calculated the ramp so the bottom end is smoother and has more steps from moon to low. Now instead of 3/150 being that too-bright mode, it has moved up to like… 12/150 or so. There are more levels below it.
- Compensated for the power regulator’s slow activation at moon mode. There is a new “jump start” feature which makes the LED turn on faster, but it requires some manual calibration to get the amount right.
- Added a new “don’t ramp after moon” option to make it easier to hit moon level from off. That way, the user can just hold the button and it’ll turn on at moon. If they want to ramp up more, they have to release the button and press again.
- Added an option to slow down the smooth ramp, for people who don’t like the default fast speed.
On all five of my linear-driver lights, the lowest mode is just as low as the original D4v2, or in some cases even lower… and the bottom end of the ramp is lower and smoother. Plus, it still has the aux LEDs if you want something even lower or a different color.
However, the power regulator is still somewhat sensitive at the bottom few levels, so if you go directly from turbo to moon, it’ll usually turn off for a second or two before it turns on and stabilizes. This is kind of a silly corner case though, because if you go from turbo to moon, you probably won’t be able to see anyway.
Also, the default floor is still set relatively high, because Hank wanted it to be high enough to avoid the turbo-to-moon issue. But this can be lowered by the user.
This is all brand new though, so it may require flashing new firmware yourself. I uploaded new builds yesterday, and am still adding and improving things.
After these changes, I finally got the linear drivers to work as well for low modes as the older FET+1 style… and in some cases, even better than the old ones. But it takes a bit of tweaking for each light to get the settings just right.
I was bothered by the poor low modes on his linear drivers too… so I finally fixed it. At least, as much as the hardware allows. This involved a few different changes:
- Dramatically increased the resolution of the low end of the ramp, as documented here.
- Re-calculated the ramp so the bottom end is smoother and has more steps from moon to low. Now instead of 3/150 being that too-bright mode, it has moved up to like… 12/150 or so. There are more levels below it.
- Compensated for the power regulator’s slow activation at moon mode. There is a new “jump start” feature which makes the LED turn on faster, but it requires some manual calibration to get the amount right.
- Added a new “don’t ramp after moon” option to make it easier to hit moon level from off. That way, the user can just hold the button and it’ll turn on at moon. If they want to ramp up more, they have to release the button and press again.
OMG finally, this has always driven me nuts!
- Added an option to slow down the smooth ramp, for people who don’t like the default fast speed.
On all five of my linear-driver lights, the lowest mode is just as low as the original D4v2, or in some cases even lower… and the bottom end of the ramp is lower and smoother. Plus, it still has the aux LEDs if you want something even lower or a different color.
Great news…
However, the power regulator is still somewhat sensitive at the bottom few levels, so if you go directly from turbo to moon, it’ll usually turn off for a second or two before it turns on and stabilizes. This is kind of a silly corner case though, because if you go from turbo to moon, you probably won’t be able to see anyway.
The problem I had was that it did not require leaving the regulated levels and it still shut down for a couple of seconds.
After these changes, I finally got the linear drivers to work as well for low modes as the older FET+1 style… and in some cases, even better than the old ones. But it takes a bit of tweaking for each light to get the settings just right.
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Thanks Matt
Any clue if the new driver (of the SP10 Pro) will fit the old SP10A/B hosts?
I have at least one empty host needing a driver and would be happy to fill the light with the new driver in case it fits!
I found 24” x 21” sheets of 16x neutral density gel filter (intended for studio lighting) at $7 a sheet:
https://www.adorama.com/le299s.html
So all we need is a press-on bezel cap to put around a circle of that, and there is the firefly mode. 
For me the appeal of Firefly mode is the following:
- ultra-low level won’t interfere with night vision during brief night use. Such as for a trip from the bedroom to the bathroom.
- extra long runtime.
Personally, I think a 0.1 lumen moonlight mode works just fine for not interfering with night vision use. And I don’t see how a 0.02 lumen firefly mode with 30 days runtime is better than a 0.1 lumen moonlight with 90 days runtime.
That’s just my personal opinion of course.
Firefly mode can be fun to have. I enjoy it with my Jetbeam and Niteye rotaries, and with my Zebras.
This is a 700 lumen light, are you sure you can activate moon mode without turning it on full blast by accident? Consider a separate, low powered light (maybe with a red led) for those bathroom trips. I just ordered two Sofirn C01 single mode 1aaa lights in 670nm red for $6 each and I’m psyched about it. Just sayin’ ;).
It really depends on the UI.
With Anduril it’s easy to avoid blasting yourself with turbo when you wanted moonlight. Just hold the button down and it always starts at the lowest setting.
Blasting myself with turbo when I wanted low or moonlight only really happens with Zebralights. Zebralight’s default UI is a short click for turbo, a longer click for moon/low, and keep holding to ramp up. It’s pretty common if using as a nightstand night to fail to hold the button down long enough before releasing and find yourself blasted with turbo. Especially if you try using the light while groggy with sleep.
Fortunately, the latest generation of Zebras fixes this. Swapping and programming mode groups is easy. Just setup Group 6 to work like an Olight, then swap to group 6 before going to bed. Swap back to Group 5 when you get up in the morning to go back to the default UI for EDC pocket use.
There are a few UI features to help with that:
- Hold from off for the floor level. There’s also a visual indicator for when to let go.
- Hold from off can be configured to not ramp up. (this was just added)
- Manual memory can be set to a low value, so a click will reliably not go to a bright mode. This can be put on a timer so it won’t interfere with normal brightness memory.
- Automatic lockout can lock the light after it is off for long enough, so holding the button will always go to the lowest floor level.
- The “simple UI” prevents people from reconfiguring things by accident.
Mostly, just hold the button until it turns on, then let go. This is the easiest way to access moon.
that works well for me with my FWAA w Anduril 2.
fwiw
even though I have last mode memory enabled
it wont memorize moon after accessing it by shortcut.
moon will only be memorized if I ramp to it.
Yes, that is the intended behavior, as documented in the user manual:
Memory determines which brightness level the light goes to with 1 click
from off. There are three types of brightness memory to choose from:
- Automatic: Always uses the last-ramped brightness.
(does not memorize levels accessed by a shortcut,
like turbo, 2C for ceiling, or 1H-from-off for floor)
This allows it to access the floor and ceiling without forgetting the memorized level.
good to know it is normal,
it is possible to blind myself by attempting to click On, subsequent to accessing moonlight, because it is not memorized.
I WANT Moonlight to be memorized, if it was the Last Mode Used.
Regardless how I got to it.
in any case, I can solve my problem by simply setting the light to always come on at minimum…
the beauty of Anduril is its flexibility…
interest was the hs05 headlamp but 1lm at lowest mode is too much.
This light need already an upgrade…
We (BLF) really need to find a custom clip manufacturer.
Do you mean for headlamps? Or to clip some kind of test lead to the debug pads on the driver board? I think the latter is mostly a matter of putting the pads someplace accessible. Luckly there are way fewer wires needed than there were for the older cpus like the one in the d4v2. It would be great if we don’t need any custom tools for that. There is that Adafruit clip and there are little tiny clip probes used for logic analyzers, among other things. If we need a special clip maybe 3d printing suffices.
Pocket clips. For lights like the SP10 which don’t come with a good one.
Oh hmm, I’m sure we can find some suitable ones somewhere and order them, instead of getting custom ones.