Looks like the tail cap is now on the aliexpress store as well: link
Once the blue and 4000k options are available, I’ll order a second one. Maybe also a green 2700k… Would be really fun to see a deep red SSD-20 in the red host as well.
Group buy or coupon?
At the current price, if I include the shipping costs to my country, it goes beyond the budget.
So the specs may be elsewhere in this thread but a search didn’t find it. Does anyone know the max current of this driver? Most single emitter Anduril lights use a FET driver so emitter swap choices are limited. Does this driver go into direct drive on turbo with a 14500?
Good questions and I have no answer. Since the v3 apparently uses a FET, I’m assuming the pro does as well. Fwiw, I’ve been running the v3 with a Nichia 519a without problems so far using the included Sofirn battery(!!! check the specs !!!) and I’m guessing the pro might be the same. But this is purely a guess based on manufacturers often re-using the same designs/parts as much as possible. Maybe someone with a prototype can say more. In any case, I think the included battery has been the limiting safety factor in my case.
I’m guessing and hoping it’s based on the v2 driver, the v3 is some weird buck/fet bypass design.
I just want cheap anduril buck lights for stable runtimes and high efficiency. We have enough fet based drivers already.
That AVR JTAG ICE adapter works pretty well, but it’s annoying to having to flash new firmware to the programmer and then needing to customize avrdude in order to use it.
For the past 8 months or so I’ve been using a different flashing tool, basically just a USB to Serial TTL adapter paired with pymcuprog (instead of avrdude). It works very well and those USB to Serial adapters are dirt cheap and everywhere. See here and here for a few more details. I had been talking with Sofirn about putting together a flashing kit with this, but that conversation seems to have gone quiet, as I think it was going through Lux-Perpetua.
Ordered a green 5000k but will definitely be in for a red 4000k if/when they are available!!
I ordered green and red. Surprised it’s so quiet here.
Because of the price …….
Yeah, it’s higher than expected. $20 with battery would be OK in my opinion. Now it’s more like $25 (and the Sofirn shop adds $4 shipping).
I think I’ll wait for a good coupon or group buy price.
Yeah, we waited so long, I can wait some more for the group-buy and a purple and/or orange 4000K. 
I don’t mind spending a few Euros more to support Sofirn when they’re doing a product we all wanted.
I bought one but waiting for 2700k and 4000k along with colored magnetic tail caps.
In other news Wurkkos has decided to use their current design of WK10 with aux leds and 14500 only. That’s an easy pass for me, for now this the only the Anduril AA/14500 light.
Since this project has finally become a reality and may have opened the door for more projects. I really want an updated SF11 with Anduril 2, parallel battery config of 4x AA or 14500 batteries and low vf led and of course an LT1 model based on SF11 
Power and efficiency wouldn’t be very good with parallel AA configuration, in a single AA light there is no choice but with 4 cells in series the input would be 4V (Nimh) to 16.8V (li-ion), with theses voltages an efficient and powerful buck converter could be used.
Considering the price would be nice if Sofirn will offer this light with Nichia 519A 30k and E21A 2000k instead of Lh351d
The 519A only became the new hotness after Sofirn had started producing this light. It’ll take them a bit figure out that the LH351D is old and busted now.
Well, I bought 2 and used a coupon, $21 no battery, $23 with battery. Not bad. I’ll try it. I’ve been waiting for AA with Anduril a while. It was worth a shot. Too bad the flat magnetic caps are black. Also non removable magnets.
Surely they will offer the colors soon. You can kill your magnet with heat…hot soldering iron, small hot air tip, etc. Once you get them to around 80°C (for the usual grade) they will start to lose magnetism gradually and permanently…the higher you go the more is lost, and faster. At the curie temp (around 300°C I think) everything is gone for good. Can also try to break them up with a punch or cold chisel and remove pieces that way if you can get past any glue.