thank you, OMG 0.01 lumens, is it the lowest we can set in the andvanced UI? i don’t image it can be lower than this.
i doesn’t change any thing in Andvanced UI, will i have 0.01 lumens at floor level or i need to change some setting?
Hey Jon just curious about comparing the Sp10pro to the Skilhunt 150? The Sp10 is my current favorite but that Skilhunt looks interesting…
Can you mesurment the lumens with 14500 battery, thank you.
yes, in smooth ramping
the SP10pro has a lower possible floor, but the H150 has no PWM
the SP10pro has Anduril, but I dont like that I cannot find the button by feel. The button is what made me sell all my SP10pro.
I do not have any SP10pro now
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In case you aren’t aware, it’s not easy to measure lumens. You’d need to build something like this or buy one.
Also, lumens are perceived logarithmically, where you need 4x the lumens to perceive 2x the brightness. So a 100 lumen difference at 1000 lumens is perhaps imperceptible compared to a 100 difference at 200.
Additionally for turbo max lumen modes, some flashlights drop a fair amount within the first 30 seconds or so , not everyone measures or reports at the same time, etc. And then after that, most will step down after a few minutes. Measurement wise, some use the ANSI and measure at 30 seconds, others report the max lumens at turn-on. Battery condition, temperature, and manufacturer variation, etc. can all effect this as well. Many view the “few minute turbo” as not all that important, but rather the sustained output, which can be seen with runtime graphs. Here is the SP10 V3, which should be similar, though a bit brighter than the SP10 Pro, at the cost of all the flexibility that Anduril 2 gives you.
Anyways, I’ve found one other lumen measurement for the SP10 Pro: The YouTuber Smothered Chrome measured lumens at turn on of the SP10 V3 and SP10 Pro, which got 1075 and 896 respectively (877 with a less fresh battery).
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Measured a peak of 781lm turbo, and a floor of <1lm (as low as my tube’s luxmeter goes. I do have a different luxmeter with a higher precision but do not yet have a calibration factor for the tube with it. Eyeballing it, probably around 0.5lm or so, but this light does not currently have the latest firmware which should make the lows a bit lower.
Tested with a freshly charged Vapcell H10 and a 4.5 inch Texas Ace lumen tube - see @PetToilet’s reply; I would consider this level of equipment accurate to +/- 10% - to get significantly more precision than that costs several thousand dollars.
If you want me to do a 30s test or a full runtime test, let me know and I can tomorrow, but at the moment I am moving stuff around so I can’t currently use my tube for an extended time during the evening without disturbing my sleeping partner. I can also update the firmware and test again then as well.
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thank you, can you test a pick lumens of thoses mode sp10 pro (or 30s) ? , i don’t need full runtime test.
" * Default UI: Simple, in stepped mode from 15 to 150 in 5 steps: 15, 48, 82, 116, 150"
→ i think it is 1 lumens, 10 lumens, 70 lumens, 280 lumens and 900 lumens in the Manual of sofirn, right?
" * Advanced mode stepped ramp: 1 to 150 in 7 steps: 1, 25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150".
I don’t know which lumens are if i set this 7 steps, please tell me.
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It depends on the battery and the voltage of the battery.
Stock firmware, factory reset, fully charged Vapcell H10.
Simple UI stepped mode: <1lm, 18lm, 92, 297, 795
Advanced UI stepped mode: <1, 2, 22, 70, 184, 416, 850
I do not have a ring for the tube that perfectly fits the SP10 Pro (I am planning to make some new rings soon but so far have not got round to it) so these are probably on the low side of perfect.
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Did the root cause of this ever get figured out? Just a hardware driver efficiency difference for anduril compatibility?
Thank you so much. I was surprised that the turbo of Advanced UI is much more than the Simple UI.
You measure those in 30s after the light turn on right? I think may be the turbo is 900 lumens at first but decrease to 850 lumens in 30s.
Ohhh, thanks for that! It might explain why my visual judgement of the output isn’t as expected on a couple of LEDs i tried, my expectations were based on relative output at the same current where i should have been looking at relative output at the same voltage.
I feel a Cslpm1 install coming on 
Although i’m now confused as to how @jon_slider 's red XP-E2 transplant works given the much lower Vf of that LED. 
Shouldn’t it just be maxed out all the time? 
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Its the Anduril driver that makes the difference
Anduril will ramp up and down with a Red LED
if I put the red LED in a 3 mode Maratac,
all 3 red modes are virtually the same… 7, 11,13 lumens. Depending on the driver model, it can even become 11.5, 11.6, 11.7 lumens.
even though with a white LED the 3 modes are well spaced, 2 lumens, 20 lumens, 90 lumens.
bottom line, lights with 3-4 stepped modes (non Anduril), dont retain mode spacing w Red
Red does work, with useful mode spacing, in an SP10 Pro, because it uses Anduril
That was instant, but I do not have a proper spacer ring for my lumen tube that fits the SP10 Pro, so the measurements are probably closer to what you would see after 30s if no light was escaping. IMO, in general, with homemade equipment, consider 10% a reasonable margin of error.
I didn’t test turbo in either config, that was just the 5 (simple)/7(advanced) default stepped ramp levels. IIRC, for both UI modes then turbo style is set to 2, where 2C when not at ceiling goes to ceiling, and 2C when already at ceiling goes to level 150.
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Thank you so much. But in default, the turbo lumen (2 click) is ceiling lumen in both simple UI and Advanced UI.
Sorry Jon, i missed this before.
I appreciate the mode flexibility Anduril gives with regards to adjusting for the Vf of a red LED but i think my question relates to the hardware.
My interpretation of what thefreeman is saying is that on an AA battery the output is voltage-based, so at the same mode setting the voltage is roughly the same regardless of the LED.
So at the lowest mode in Anduril, 1/150, the voltage is enough to light a white LH351D (so somewhere around 2.4v) which should overwhelm a red LED. You’ve shown this doesn’t happen so i’m getting something wrong.
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But that’s not why i resurrected this thread
I’ve just discovered one of my SP10 Pros has a parasitic drain of 33mA. I measured this after finding a NiMH drained to 0.85V for third time, and this time i know the torch hadn’t been accidently activated as i has assumed the previous 2 times.
The other SP10 Pro i have in action shows a parasitic drain of about 50uA on the 2000uA multimeter setting.
I’m specifiying the multimeter setting because on the 200uA setting the reading is off the scale which implies it’s more than 200uA so i don’t actually know what it is, but it is orders of multitude less than the one that is killing my batteries.
I don’t know what use this information serves other than to let people know there is a rogue SP10 Pro in existence? 
(Hmm, unless it’s to do with the replacement LED i installed, not that i can think how as off is off and both SP10 Pros have non-standard LEDs, in which case it would down to a rogue modifier…)
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I have reflashed Anduril with latest version, it works much much better.
I haven’t checked parasitic drain since i leave all tailcaps unacrewed when flashlight is not used.
On the other hand, i was about to ask Barry if i can order just drivers for 3 of my regular SP10v2 and i saw Pro’s are on sale.
14$ folks! Get’em
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I recently reflashed mine and noticed that manual memory doesn’t work, is that the same with yours by any chance?
Hm, never used it. I can try tomorrow