Did the root cause of this ever get figured out? Just a hardware driver efficiency difference for anduril compatibility?
Thank you so much. I was surprised that the turbo of Advanced UI is much more than the Simple UI.
You measure those in 30s after the light turn on right? I think may be the turbo is 900 lumens at first but decrease to 850 lumens in 30s.
Ohhh, thanks for that! It might explain why my visual judgement of the output isn’t as expected on a couple of LEDs i tried, my expectations were based on relative output at the same current where i should have been looking at relative output at the same voltage.
I feel a Cslpm1 install coming on 
Although i’m now confused as to how @jon_slider 's red XP-E2 transplant works given the much lower Vf of that LED. 
Shouldn’t it just be maxed out all the time? 
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Its the Anduril driver that makes the difference
Anduril will ramp up and down with a Red LED
if I put the red LED in a 3 mode Maratac,
all 3 red modes are virtually the same… 7, 11,13 lumens. Depending on the driver model, it can even become 11.5, 11.6, 11.7 lumens.
even though with a white LED the 3 modes are well spaced, 2 lumens, 20 lumens, 90 lumens.
bottom line, lights with 3-4 stepped modes (non Anduril), dont retain mode spacing w Red
Red does work, with useful mode spacing, in an SP10 Pro, because it uses Anduril
That was instant, but I do not have a proper spacer ring for my lumen tube that fits the SP10 Pro, so the measurements are probably closer to what you would see after 30s if no light was escaping. IMO, in general, with homemade equipment, consider 10% a reasonable margin of error.
I didn’t test turbo in either config, that was just the 5 (simple)/7(advanced) default stepped ramp levels. IIRC, for both UI modes then turbo style is set to 2, where 2C when not at ceiling goes to ceiling, and 2C when already at ceiling goes to level 150.
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Thank you so much. But in default, the turbo lumen (2 click) is ceiling lumen in both simple UI and Advanced UI.
Sorry Jon, i missed this before.
I appreciate the mode flexibility Anduril gives with regards to adjusting for the Vf of a red LED but i think my question relates to the hardware.
My interpretation of what thefreeman is saying is that on an AA battery the output is voltage-based, so at the same mode setting the voltage is roughly the same regardless of the LED.
So at the lowest mode in Anduril, 1/150, the voltage is enough to light a white LH351D (so somewhere around 2.4v) which should overwhelm a red LED. You’ve shown this doesn’t happen so i’m getting something wrong.
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But that’s not why i resurrected this thread
I’ve just discovered one of my SP10 Pros has a parasitic drain of 33mA. I measured this after finding a NiMH drained to 0.85V for third time, and this time i know the torch hadn’t been accidently activated as i has assumed the previous 2 times.
The other SP10 Pro i have in action shows a parasitic drain of about 50uA on the 2000uA multimeter setting.
I’m specifiying the multimeter setting because on the 200uA setting the reading is off the scale which implies it’s more than 200uA so i don’t actually know what it is, but it is orders of multitude less than the one that is killing my batteries.
I don’t know what use this information serves other than to let people know there is a rogue SP10 Pro in existence? 
(Hmm, unless it’s to do with the replacement LED i installed, not that i can think how as off is off and both SP10 Pros have non-standard LEDs, in which case it would down to a rogue modifier…)
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I have reflashed Anduril with latest version, it works much much better.
I haven’t checked parasitic drain since i leave all tailcaps unacrewed when flashlight is not used.
On the other hand, i was about to ask Barry if i can order just drivers for 3 of my regular SP10v2 and i saw Pro’s are on sale.
14$ folks! Get’em
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I recently reflashed mine and noticed that manual memory doesn’t work, is that the same with yours by any chance?
Hm, never used it. I can try tomorrow
the light needs to be in Advanced mode to be able to set manual memory
so, from Off in Simple mode, do 10H to go to Advanced mode
after that, turn the light on at the level you want to memorize, and do 10C
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It is in advanced mode, I’m talking about after the reflash, manual memory no longer works on my SP10pro, but works on all other lights with the new update
did you confirm by doing battery check?
if so, sorry the feature is missing… maybe someone as helpful as @wolfgirl42 or @SammysHP can build you with a new Hex file
Maybe it is just in hybrid memory aka manual memory timer mode? That is enabled by default in the SP10 Pro AFAIK. Check the manual to find out more about it and how to configure it.
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That was it! Thanks a lot! I was missing it so much! haha
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I want do same for upgrade my Sp10s host, hope pro driver will fit.
Wich method you use to pull out the glued driver whithout damage anything?
Watched that pro version is on sale black color only
A shorter version with Tir lens + 519A or new Anduril AA lights are coming?
Removing the glued-in driver is a bit annoying, but not terrible. Remove the bezel, lens, and reflector. Unsolder the leads from the MCPCB, pull that out. Gently push one of the LED leads back into the driver cavity with a broken off toothpick or something. Then insert a long, thin object like a blunted skinny nail into the hole where the wire was. Angle it towards the wall of the flashlight (avoiding the components on the driver), pushing down on the driver, and give it a few mildly gentle taps. The driver should pop out.
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Many thanks, I thought something like this, but was afraid of breaking some comp.
Obviously I will do it only if the price of new driver worth the cost.
Wich Anduril version bug free I have to ask?
Use the latest stable release. Release 2024-04-20 · ToyKeeper/anduril · GitHub. In the zip file, you’ll want sofirn-sp10-pro for the model.
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