Sofirn SP10 Pro (AA/14500/Andúril 2) - now available!

[SammysHP]

@supreme

Anyone have a link to the source code? I can find the hex but don’t want to decompile just to look at the source and see if I can modify the code

Do you mean this here? anduril2 : Code : Flashlight Firmware Repository

[supreme]

I think so? This is my first attempt at editing code and compiling. Looking at the notes on the page it seems the latest revision would work for the sp10 pro.

[MascaratumB]

Stupid question, but: is there a place in the SP10 Pro driver to which we can add some wires to control aux leds like the ones in the TS10 MCPCB?

Thanks in advance

[thefreeman]

@MascaratumB

Stupid question, but: is there a place in the SP10 Pro driver to which we can add some wires to control aux leds like the ones in the TS10 MCPCB?

Thanks in advance :+1:

There are no extra pads, you can solder directly on the pins with thin magnet wire but it’s meticulous work. I’ve already done it while debugging drivers. Using a corner pin is less difficult.

Picture from r/flashlight

[SammysHP]

Of course: the microcontroller itself. Just add a LED with a resistor to the appropriate pin. Well, soldering to it might be difficult.

[MascaratumB]

@thefreeman

@MascaratumB

Stupid question, but: is there a place in the SP10 Pro driver to which we can add some wires to control aux leds like the ones in the TS10 MCPCB?

Thanks in advance :+1:

There are no extra pads, you can solder directly on the pins with thin magnet wire but it’s meticulous work.

Picture from r/flashlight

Thanks for thre reply, thefreeman :+1:

Hum, when you are said the pins, which ones should I be aiming at? Also, how thick/thin, show the wire be?

I am not sure if am fit for these adventures but…I guess I would try since I have some spare material!

[thefreeman]

Both pins on the bottom right corners (15/PC0 and 16/PC1) appear to be free.
Something like 32AWG or smaller, the enamelled wire I use is 36AWG

[MascaratumB]

@SammysHP

Of course: the microcontroller itself. Just add a LED with a resistor to the appropriate pin. Well, soldering to it might be difficult.

Thanks SammyHP!
Hum, getting the resistor is probably harder for me (although I am not pro in mircosoldering )

But, again, I might try it :innocent:

[MascaratumB]

@thefreeman

Both pins on the bottom right corners (15/PC0 and 16/PC1) appear to be free.
Something like 32AWG or smaller, the enamelled wire I use is 36AWG

Thank you once again for the reply and “directions”
I will see what I can get and do
If I succed, I will post it here !! And if not…I will post it too

[contactcr]

A reference from the datasheet for those of us who are not intimately familiar with microcontrollers:

[MascaratumB]

@contactcr

A reference from the datasheet for those of us who are not intimately familiar with microcontrollers:

This may be handy, thank you contactcr

[MascaratumB]

Hum…well, when I got home I went to check the spare driver I have and…I guess I would fail completely to solder such thin wires there :o
That thing is tinier than I could remember and my skills and iron and not fit for the job after all

So, I will pass this possibility ti have an SP10 Pro with aux leds. For now
Thanks for your replies folks

[thefreeman]

All pin 16 17 and 18 look free, so you could solder a wire without caring much about solder brides between those pins.

[Sari33]

@Tendou

@SammysHP

A slightly shorter version with TIR and 1x 519a would be awesome.

I agree with this. There is not many competition for a shorter version with dual fuel AA/14500 lights.

Yes, waiting for Tir version. Will be shorter and give better beam with dedomed 519A. Would be nice if they include a kit of 3 type degrees lens, like 15° 45° 90° pebbled.

[zumlin]

I have actually tried added an aux led to the SP10 Pro like described above, by soldering a wire directly directly to a pin. It was very difficult but I got it working with a driver that was removed from the light. But the connection so was weak such that when I tested its strength by pulling on it gently, it got disconnected.

[thefreeman]

For example :

32AWG solid wire soldered on two pins, at first I used only one pin and it held well enough, but since the pins are very small it’s easier and likely more robust with on two pins.

[MascaratumB]

@thefreeman

For example :

32AWG solid wire soldered on two pins, at first I used only one pin and it held well enough, but since the pins are very small it’s easier and likely more robust with on two pins.

Oh man, that is thin!!! Idk, I may risk it. Gotta find the appropriate wire (abroad, local stores don’t have it :person_facepalming: )
Thanks for the inspiration, thefreeman!

And thanks for the report on your experience zumlin !

[thefreeman]

The usual 30 AWG silicone stranded wire should do as well, especially since as previously mentioned there are 3 consecutive free pins and the wire can be soldered horizontally, soldering on a middle pin is another story. Just put a generous amount of flux.
The enameled wires I often use are those actually it’s 36SWG, which is aprox 33AWG. the solid green insulated wire picture was actcually 30AWG

They also have cheaper 30AWG non colored enameled wire (says 33 but specs correspond to 30).

Edit : with silicone 30AWG :

[SammysHP]

I always secure the wire with some glue after soldering (but not directly on the solder joint).

@thefreeman
Do you know how these stranded enameled wires are called that are often used in headphone cables? I like to use them in some situations, but my stash of cheap earphones is almost empty.

[Scallywag]

@SammysHP

I always secure the wire with some glue after soldering (but not directly on the solder joint).

@thefreeman
Do you know how these stranded enameled wires are called that are often used in headphone cables? I like to use them in some situations, but my stash of cheap earphones is almost empty.

“magnet wire”