Darn, I just bought one. It’s been so long I didn’t think it would happen. I don’t mind the UI too much but would rather have Anduril 1 or 2. I like double click from off for turbo but I’m not crazy about press and hold for off.
Very nice gchart!
Hope Sofirn will choice rosy bin neutral warm Leds and smoother knurling for this beauty
AFAIK, Sofirn has no possibility to select a specific flux bin or even a specific chromaticity bin when sourcing LEDs from their supplier(s). Maybe it’s not that bad actually and it just requires us to point them to the right order code, so they know better what to look for? For instance, the LH351D 5000K (potential „dogfarts“) in their new TF84 model has an awesome nice rosy tint…
I will try again to send them the right chromaticity bins to look for…
BTW, I’ve had this guy up and running since December. I know that it’s been a while. And I hadn’t posted a video, just talked about it. But I did post some runtime graphs in this post
Yes Bin under BBL like U6/V4
The best would be they can find Nichia 219B NVSL219BT-V1 D200
Dang. If this happens I will buy many!
Skills: very detail oriented, patient, and decent soldering abilities
Materials: attiny816 or 1616, my PCB, solder paste, desoldering braid or solder sucker
Equipment: soldering iron, a hotplate or hot air station, UPDI programmer
Process:
- File any excess off the PCB and clean it up
- Apply a small amount of solder paste to the PCB
- Carefully align the attiny on the board
- Reflow it with a hotplate or hot air
- Touch up any solder bridges with your iron
- Flash the firmware onto the attiny
- Remove bezel and reflector from SP10S
- Desolder the LED wires and gently push them into the holes they’re fed through
- Push something like a toothpick through one of the holes and up against the outer rim of the driver, gently tap on it to break the driver free (it’s lightly glued in place). Try not to damage the LED wires or any driver components
- Take the driver and desolder the two boards (it’s a T-shape 2-part driver)
- Remove the existing MCU. Hot air really helps here
- Solder the attiny adapter board in place, paying close attention to orientation
- Reverse the process to put everything back together
Were it not for the global microcontroller shortage, I’d offer to send you a ready-to-go adapter board. But as it stands, I only have a couple attiny’s left and probably can’t get anymore for several months. That could also be part of the reason that this project has been quiet lately.
Thank you so much for the detailed reply gchart, it’s truly appreciated. Likewise, congrats on Sofirn picking the light up for production.
While I will definitely buy a few from Sofirn when available this has sparked my interest in getting more involved in the DIY side of this hobby - I have just ordered a soldering iron to practice with and spent my Sunday reading about using a convection oven for reflow - so much to learn but I’m excited to learn the skills. Thank you once again :+1:
If is possible interested in RAW aluminium version.
Sofirn told me many times they had big difficulties sourcing Nichia LEDs, no matter if it’s 219B, 219C or E21A. IIRC, 219Bs are discontinued anyway and only some few manufacturers seem to got hands on some last reels.
IMHO, best options for SP10S seem to be…
Samsung LH351D 2700K - 5000K 90CRI
Luminus SST20 2700K - 4000K 95CRI
Osram KW CULNM1.TG 6500K 70CRI
Cree XP-L HI V2 5D 4000K 70CRI (if they can get them)
Osram KW CULNM1.TG 6500K 70CRI
The 5D Cree is a winner for a small EDC light.
I was one of the fortunate recipients of one of gChart’s MCU adapters before the shortage.
Here’s my before and after SP10S driver, the mod was as spelled out in his mod post above.
The SP10, now works exactly as in his video, fine with AA or 14500. As gChart’s already done most of the heavy lifting towards a BLF edition with Anduril2, makes me wonder why Sofirn is hesitant.
In any event, I have a new favorite pocket EDC thanks to gChart.
Interested whatever emitters are offered TBH. Just hope they don’t use too much glue this time to make swapping easier. But not having to swap LEDs is nice too.
Luminus SST20 2700K …95CRIOsram KW CULNM1.TG 6500K 70CRI
Cree XP-L HI V2 5D 4000K 70CRI
OK, first things first, i was already very aware of this because i bought a light from him which he designed a driver for, but GCHART - youre the man, a certified genius and wizard, and a hell of a nice guy!
Secondly, LP - if the 3 emitter choices above are avaialble for this SP10S with Anduril, put me down for 6 of them (2 of each of those^ emitters, in 2 body colors each). Please, and thank you!
The 3500k LH351D U6 Bin used by Convoy also seem nice.
I always wanted know what kind of glue they use for hold the driver. Swap It would be more easy by unscrew a retainer ring.
Hope also the the head will not be glue.
Pads for firmware upgrades would be great. With the “new” MCU it does not require so much space and should fit easily even in a small light.
keen on the progress… progress on this and the general SP10S refresh means we’re one step closer to SP10R 660nm
just please keep AA NiMH compatibility in all the versions!
What great versatility in power source . Great job Gchart ! I am definitely interested.
Interested!!!
Sofirn, so good. I’m in for multiple.
This is amazing work gchart and everyone involved!
Does this mean budget li-ion lights with 6V or 12V LEDs with Anduril might not be far off?