Don’t ask too much 
The MCPCB doesn’t fit the SP10A/B without sanding it. I am not sure about the inner diameter of the SP10 Pro, but if it fits without modding the MCPCB, you bet I will try 
I tried removing the stars on my FWAA and SP10 Pro to see if I could swap them as-is. Results:
- The cavity for the star in the FWAA is very slightly wider than in the SP10 Pro. The FWAA star will need to be filed down very slightly on all sides to fit into the SP10 Pro cavity. My guess is 1/2 to 1 mm on all sides.
- The bezel, lens, and reflector of the SP10 Pro all fit perfectly in the FWAA without modification. If you want to convert an FWAA into an FW1AA, you should start with an SP10 Pro or SP10 v3. I believe the SP10 Pro’s star should also fit without modification, but was unable to fully test since the FWAA driver wires were in the way and I did not remove the driver.
- My guess is the riskiest part of the conversion either direction is likely to be driver removal. I didn’t attempt to remove the driver in the FWAA, but I did briefly try pulling out the driver of the SP10 Pro after removing the star. It wouldn’t come out. Either it is wedged in tightly or might be glued.
- In my experience, the most effective way to remove this kind of driver is to tap it out from the front. Insert a pick or toothpick from the reflector compartment and then tap the back with the side of a wrench or a hammer.
- The difficulty is the pick must be inserted through holes on the shelf. The only available holes are the driver wire holes which are quite tight, especially on the SP10 Pro. And then when you tap you have to hope that the tip of your pick doesn’t slip and destroy or knock off any driver components.
- Alternatively, you could drill a new hole, but this is quite dangerous to attempt while the driver is installed. when the drill bit penetrates the shelf it may slip downward and damage driver components.
- It is necessary to remove the driver when modding an FWAA into an FW1AA or when modding an SP10 Pro into an SP10 triple, because the driver wires holes need to be reconfigured for the different star. This means removing the driver and drilling a new hole or holes in the shelf suited for the different star.
Overall conclusion: The mod looks quite doable, but I’m not sure I want to risk converting my SP10 Pro into a triple until my spare SP10 Pro arrives. Just in case the mod fails by damaging the driver.
Also, I’m not sure whether the SP10 Pro would make a good triple. Since output is limited to just 3 amps, it will have quite a bit worse maximum performance than an FWAA.
The brightness on an IKEA rechargeable is comparable to my tool aa using 14500. Thanks gchart for developing this amazing driver!
Hoping Sofirn gets more in stock soon. I definitely need to order another.
For those who ordered from “SOFIRNLIGHT.COM”: did the status of your order changed to “shipped” (or something similar)?
Mine still shows “awaiting shipment”. I contacted Barry and Sofirn via PM and didn’t get any replies…
I know this week they are on holiday, but mine was ordered on the 14th and didn’t move since then…I’m starting to get upset 
Thanks for the report on this Firelight2
I will decide what to do with mine when it arrives. Maybe the triple is an option, maybe not! Let’s see! Thanks 
Fwiw, it’s not just sofirn. I have several packages en route from China (mostly AE) and all of them are dead in the water. Most have export clearance success, and then nothing, ranging from 3 to 11 days without any updates. The 1 thing they have in common is that they never left China.
Thanks for the reply Verodin!
I guess yours have avanced more than mine, since I got no tracking number nor clearance , or whatsoever.
I guess this may have to do with the pandemic and the shipping issues during the last months and current restrictions. I mean, I hope it is not a “we forgot to ship your package” issue.
I will wait some more days and see if it moves or not. Thanks :+1:
My order from 4-16 is still awaiting shipping
Got a response from Lan Lee “SP10Pro driver had a problem in the previous test, we sent the SP10 driver back to the factory for re-testing, so the shipment was delayed, sorry.”
Maybe it’s just the new firmware.
Probably June. I too am waiting.
What’s the best way to modify the firmware to access strobe while on? I have no idea how to modify the code and create a hex file
First you should think about which button combination should enable strobe.
For those interested in programming adapters…
I just got a batch of programming kits made up, and most of them are spoken for and have been shipped out. This first batch required modification of the USB to Serial adapter (addition of a Schottky diode between the Tx and Rx lines) so they’re only sold as a full kit. I have a couple of these still available to ship out if anyone is interested.
Also, parts just arrived from a redesign. instead of requiring the USB to Serial adapter to be modified, this version runs both the Tx and Rx lines to the pogo pin adapter and merges them there. This allows you to use this pogo pin adapter with pretty much any off-the shelf USB to Serial TTL adapter without any modifications (* note: if serial adapter has an Rx LED, you will likely need to physically disable that). If anyone would like these, I can send them out as just the pogo pin adapter or as a full kit with a USB to Serial adapter and Dupont cables. If you already have a serial adapter sitting around, this is a cheap/easy way to do the flashing.
Looks very well made Gchart 
Nicely done gchart!
What size are the pogo pins? I’ve been looking at buying some, but turns out there’s a gazilion sizes…
Big thank you! It’s useful to see your photo and know the actual type. Puts it better into perspective.
Just wanted to let people know that Sofirn and Barry have replied to me meanwhile, concerning my order. :+1:
They are expecting drivers and updating firmware, so that is what caused delay.
Sofirn mentioned the end of the month to eventually have them.
I will wait for them to become available, as will not cancel my order. I just wanted to know what would be the reason, and now I know :+1:
Gchart you mentioned that shipping to Europe is expensive, should I make some programing adapters for Europeans ? (or others actually, an international 20g enveloppe is 1.65€)
That’d be great, I’d buy one.
It’s relatively easy to hack something like this together (e.g. hot gluing pogo and modding a FTDI board), but it’s an entire different thing if it’s properly done and nice and tidy like gchart’s adapter. Certainly more durable. For small things like this, shipping costs (+ customs!!!) are often a showstopper.