Sofirn SP10B - Anyone?

Thank you, Tracy Wan. I’ll keep that in mind when I order from your stores. Can this be done with other parts like tail caps and switches?

Hi Jaded,

Sorry for the late reply.
If you have any problem or question, please feel free to contact the sales service whether on AliExpress or Amazon. They will help you do their best.

Have a good time on BLF

Currently it is listed as having Low Voltage Protection only for 14500 cells. It would be nice to have LVP feature for NiMH cells too, or have an easy accessible battery level indicator function.

Just received my Sofirn SP 10b today and have been playing with it . Removed the head and the threads were very rough and gritty but lube took care of that . Tail threads were better . Very bright output with 14500 . Seems as bright as my Convoy S2+ 6x7135 and Jet 1MK . S2+ slightly more floody . All about equal in throw . $12 well spent .

Found any problems yet? or things you didn’t like other than the thread?

No problems . Just getting used to the switch is a little difficult . A long click turns the light off usually except from strobe and turbo mode if accessed from off . In those cases , a short click turns it off . Another thing I need to learn is when on the lowest setting I sometimes think it is off and think the switch is not working properly . Why do people desire such low settings I don’t know . Not for me . Being older, I would rather simple L,M,H,Off or even just L,H,Off . Just me though .YMMV. When I first put the 14500 in and turned on turbo , it was flickering . Tightening the caps stopped this although I did not feel they where loose . No spring in the front . Over all : B+ .

Same here, I don’t find any use for Moonlight/Firefly mode, would be glad if I could get rid of it.
What’s your opinion about this -vs Utorch UT01, which would you prefer?

I only know what I have been reading here . Seem to be unloading some known bad switches .

I just got a (red) SF10b. My main motivation was finding a more reliable alternative than the UT01 — my first UT01 doesn’t work with 14500, the second does — to recommend or give as gifts.

I’m not sure how I feel about the UI. It is certainly taking me some getting used now that I’m familiar with the UT01.

I was hoping it would be a better UI for ‘muggles,’ but I’m not sure it is.

The long press to turn on and off seems a little too long. More than once, I’ve ended up in moon when I thought I’ve turned it off. Also, the fact that it takes a short press to turn off after entering Turbo with a double-click from off is odd, and seems like an accident. I like the lockout, but I’d rather have it on three clicks, and flashing modes on four clicks.

Turbo isn’t as bright as the UT01, but the beam is more throwy.

Build quality is good. I like the metal button, but it’s a little harder to find by feel, or maybe I just need to be feeling for something else (like the depressions on either side). The tail cap spring is pretty thin. I’ll try a bypass.

I personally find moonlight mode useful.

Overall, it’s a good light and I think it will make a good gift light. The only thing I’d really ask for is a brighter turbo, for more WOW.

Is it possible to mod this light? have you taken a look at it’s driver yet?

Just a little follow-up. After playing with my UT01 and SP10b, I note that while the 10b seems to have more throw at a given output level, the higher output of the UT01 means that it is at least as effective at illuminating distant objects — at the cost of some runtime, I assume.

I’d love a SP10c with output closer to that of a UT01.

Looks like they updated Sofirn SP10A on 15 December with the same driver SP10B uses. So basically both of them A and B are now the same. :confounded:

No idea about resistor modding the driver. However I did mod one of these yesterday.

  • Driver is 17mm. I replaced it with a Mountain Electronics 17mm driver with Emisar D4 UI.
  • I kept the switch. Chopped up the stock driver and salvaged the switch. Glued it to the new driver with arctic alumina and a plastic support strut.
  • Replaced stock emitter with XPL HI 5A2 on copper Noctigon.
  • Added a thin metal ring around the switch button. Cut from 0.025” aluminum sheet and then filed down into shape. This turns the raised button into a flush button. Risk of accidental pocket activation is much less.

Overall fairly happy with the mod. For a side-switch mod, not too hard and the light is now much brighter with a better UI. Now only runs on 14500 though.

Some other observations from a modder perspective:

  • The metal switch boot has a rubber seal underneath. This is all held to the inside of the head with the metal switch retaining ring. This is good as the light remains waterproof even if you change the switch on the driver.
  • The driver is 17mm and is held in place with a reverse-threaded retaining ring. There are slots on either side to prevent the driver from turning. On the stock driver, the piece with the switch on it fits those slots. For a my modded driver I cut a small section of large paperclip, then filed a notch in the right side of the driver and soldered it into place. Because of the retaining ring having something keeping the driver from rotating is a good idea.
  • The star is thin aluminum and about 14mm in diameter. The stock emitter and star won’t stand up to a FET driver and IMR cell.

Is the MCU from AVR series? would be glad if you posted a few pictures :slight_smile:

thanks for the comparison to the utorch, and overall review

I’m with you on the asking for a brighter turbo for more WOW as you put it.

please post back if you experience issues with it down the road

I have blinded myself more than once getting use to the UI. If I have never before used a multi mode flashlight the SP10b UI would be no big deal. I really like the Olight batons UI a lot. If I could improve anything about the SP10b I would add a strong magnet in the tail cap.

I received mine today, and the memory on this flashlight…well, it takes me a bit “off” of it! It is not unbearable, but I just wish it didn’t have it! I wish it always started always on ML mode (which I think is a GREAT moonlight mode, lower than the 0.5 Lumens of the Olight S1R Baton). Personal preferences as always :smiley:

Does anyone know if memory can be taken by removing any physical component / chip of the driver?

Sorry, I don’t know much about electronics :person_facepalming:

Also, the long click for ON…well, I have to get used to it!

It does have memory mode. It can start on ML, low, or medium. Turbo takes double click. Just chose moonlight, low, or medium and then turn off flashlight in selected mode. Then one fast click opens the chosen mode.

Yup, I know, but I wish I didn’t have to remember in which mode I used it last time. The Olight UI is great for that because you can always start on the lowest mode. The Sofirn Sf14 always starts on the lowest mode as the Manker E11 (I’m referring to lights I have).

I wish the SP10B would be like that :wink: But it’s just a preference as I mentioned :wink:

And at least on mine, it is not a fast but a long click for ON. (Maybe we have different versions of the light? Or maybe I’m just mistaken… :person_facepalming: Gotta check it tonight!)

Not a short click (brain fart) but a long click opens saved mode once chosen. Operator error once more.