Did you use the 2oz 0.8mm copper thickness option? Ordering 3x boards with after dark on OSHPark 
No because it's a direct contact driver, with the spring. There's stress on the PCB because of the battery/spring so the thinner one might not be as strong, plus if you had to make up for a gap between the driver and contact to the tube, it's extra unnecessary work.
The AfterDark finish looks pretty cool. I'm getting all the thicker PCB's in that finish now. I have ordered and used the 0.8 mm ones - comes in handy for sandwich setups, specially when height is tight. I also ordered/got some flex ones - those are pretty cool - super thin.
Are you using mostly 0805 parts? I’m trying to create a BOM on digikey or mouser using: :nerd_face:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/F80rN1sk
It’s not just compiling. You have to replace all AVR specific parts with PIC libraries. Might be easier to create a new firmware from scratch.
Lots of things to work out switching MCU's: interrupts, PWM's, how to handle reduced standby power usage, timing controls, I/O pin handling, etc. For our firmware, mostly TK worked out a few of the nasty details, and by nasty I mean tricky - where things weren't documented clearly in the specs. Others on BLF though helped as well. The AVR forums have always been a good source of info, I'd assume PIC's have something equivalent maybe,
Yes - that's a pretty good list, but yes - I use 0805's. Best to reference DEL's thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/44006
I fixed your link - BLF likes to append the /quote onto links...
Some important notes:
- we got better FET;s now
- 7135 must be the raptor claw version
- R1 and R2 are not needed for NarsilM or Anduril with a 3.7V battery source (not 2 or more in series) - R1/R2 are a voltage divider used to read voltage externally. As long as you are using 3.6V battery setup, Anduril defaults to internal voltage reading. You can leave R1 and R2 pads empty.
- MCU must be a ATTiny85 for NarsilM or Anduril
20mmFET+1
Has anybody yet tried to fit the sc31 pro driver into the sp40?
Would be nice to keep the usb-charging and the lighted switch that way.
This isn’t possible as the SP40 switch is part of the driver
That shouldn’t be the problem, since you can desolder the switch and just connect it to the sc31 pro driver by wires. If I’m not mistaken 
But it looks like the usb port is at another height. The sc31 pro’s port is quite low.
Mod went easy from what I can recall, but dumped the charging.
I said that it isn’t possible……
Okay, well that’s good to know, thanks Tom
Went with a warm LH351D, runs Anduril 2 now. Pretty nice, but not a fan of using these rt. angle lights as a headlamp. Prefer the centered D10/D25 style much better.
The tricky part of this mod was de-soldering the switch PCB, once that was done, the rest was standard stuff.
I like them for clipping them to a backpack or something like that.
May I ask, why you aren’t using the voltage divider on the new driver? To safe battery life while Off?
And do you think the double layer 20mm Texas avenger Fet+7+1 driver
OSH Park ~(link is external)
would fit as well?
Now that I’ve seen this project I must build me one as well.
Sure, ask away! voltage divider? What's the advantage of it over using the internal method for a 3.6V 1 cell light? No need to add any extra parts, though the external voltage divider may be more consistent, not sure though. Still for the internal method, you can calibrate it once with Anduril 2 and it's done.
The TA FET+7+1 driver should work, as long as it's got clearance for the parts.
I didn’t knew, that anduril is also able to use the internal voltage check, thats awsome.
Then i’m gonna order the 3 Channel driver. If i dont need the voltage divider i can use Pin 7 on the µC for the Switch LED. 
Im quite new to this toppic, but shouldn’t be a 3-Channel driver a little bit more efficent, since the LED isn’t running in PMW at its highest rating all the time?
Thanks for your support Tom!
Well, in the past we thought the 3 channels were more efficient because of the PWM'ing up til 2.45 Amps of the bank, rather then PWMing the FET is more efficient, so the only advantage is the low amp levels, above 0.35 amps but below 2.45 amps. But lately, I don't think even TA thinks the 3 channels drivers are worth it. Plus the fact the 7135's are getting rarer, the good ones, at least. The 7135 we use must be the raptor claw (symbol looks like a raptor claw) while the sailboat looking symbols on the 7135's have problems. The 7135 is ancient, out of production a long time now, and only available from suppliers in China as clones, least this is how I understand it. I really don't like using them at all - there are better options but I still have and can get more FET+1 drivers in the form factor I need, plus I got a decent supply of raptor claw 7135's.
Yes btw, I use pin #7 for the switch LED on some of my drivers as well, even though the driver wasn't designed for it.
NIce Review!
Thank you for sharing your experience.
We will make improvement in our products according to your guys advice!
Thank you for this nice review, here are some explainations about our design, and something we will do better in the future.
It is not very helpful to put turbo in normal UI rotation, because it is easy to heat up, and then the mode will step down from Turbo to High
In standby, let the side indicator LED light up, which will make the UI more complicated, and some people would like to use the indicator LEDs as Aux LEDs while the light is off, but some people not.
Awkward button position? Beacause SP40 Headlamp is small and compact, there is no enough place for the side button.
The new version of the headlight will add moonlight!!
Yes, just got the HD05 and it’s nice to have the moonlight. :+1: