Nope, it is not needed…. for over 99% of people that is just a waste of ‘coding space’. But to each their own…. 
What the he!!, Chris?!
That is not the BLF way.
I am ‘hoping’ Chris does not consider us consumers…. .
We are enthusiast? Or at least i hope we are lol
I gave my mate some Hugsby XP1 and XP2 and he broke them all by dropping them from his pocket. Components break of from the board mainly the coil breaks of after multiple drops. Easy fix is to pot the driver it will absorb shock and hold the components to the board. He is a mechanic so a light gets treated like tools.
I think this is more an issue with boost/buck drivers then a direct drive. A direct drive or Nanjg driver have no big components on the board that are heavy and bulky. Also quality control plays a part.
As for other gluing things like bezels they are safer to be glued cause they can spin of easily after some use and get lost. Especially on a light like the Klarus XT12GT where a more aggressive design has been used. I have never had a an issue with the C8 but it has heaps more threads.
No glue for me.
Keep us glueless
+1 no glue for me lol
I have started making a video where i compare a Hugsby XP1 with glued internal vs a none glued XP1. I haven’t gotten that far yet i am going to drop them from 2nd or 3rd floor car park and see what happens.
The heads are already glued on those lights and its a pain in the arse lol.
I really wanted to drop my Armytek Elf C1 but i can’t do it it looks to pretty! Plus in the inner tight arse in me won’t let me lol to expensive to waste.
I agree… no glue.
Missing O-ring between glass and bezel!
And yeah, dirt, fingerprints, “schmootz”, etc., is a good reason to open it up and clean it thoroughly.
To be fair, though, I’ve had a handful of issues with parts coming loose.
One of my Sofirns, forgot which model, had what looked like a switch problem. Turned out the retaining ring (RR) around the driver came loose and was making an intermittent ground.
RR around the side-switch of my Nitefox UT20 came off completely, thankfully in my pocket, so I was able to put it back on and torque it up a bit. I’m planning to get some Loctite™ and put a dab on that, too.
Lumintop AA Tool I just got last week or whenever, screw on the tailcap after putting in the cell to test it, great. Unscrew it to take out the (alkaleak) cell, and the RR from the tailswitch was completely loosened that I couldn’t put the tailcap back on the light before snugging it up.
For us, that’s no big deal. For some 85 who just wants a “bright light”, that’s a warranty-return for the mfr.
Considering, that Sofirn would like to make sales also for people outside BLF, maybe best solution for any of their flashlight could be:
When adding it to the cart, a two option select could be shown, just like other group of options are already selectable.
Take a look here - below the Emitting color, and Body color lines, add this:
‘Product option’: ‘For General user (default)’ — ‘For DIY enthusiasts’.
For most situations, this could be only a decision about whether glue is applied or not, but maybe this could involve further optional changes in some circumstances.
Dear Sofirn, do you find this acceptable? And if so, can you implement this additional choice in your AliExpress store?
This would be an additional sensitive step in processing the orders, but it would keep both BLFers and non-BLFers satisfied (For more flashlight this would be available, the better - if they are meant to be sold glued by default).
Rather than using spring bypasses, how about we use some Beryllium Copper springs? Very high current capable, and that means we don’t
I know someone who is making some now
But seriously. For the springs, I could hit up Sofirn with my spring manufacturer to make BeCu C17530 38% IACS springs. It would actually cost less and be much safer to use a high current spring than a spring bypass.
A spring bypass requires manual labor, and there is a higher chance of breaking if done.
I think it complicates the decision process too much. What does DYI mean? Do I have to assemble it myself? Am I skilled enough? What are the benefits of the DYI choice.
Some people won’t be interested in finding answers to such questions and being uncertain - will pick another light.
I agree Agro. To many vague choices complicates what should be a simple process… to order a light.
“DIY” means Do It Yourself I think.
As far as this Sofirn SP70 - BLF Edition & Group Buy go…. I hope Sofirn leaves the glue in the glue tube!! NO GLUE……
Sofirn please make sure the parasite drain of your driver is no too hight like S70s and the tube is wide enough for fat cell like shockli 5500 or Lii50A.
Parasitic drain should not be too much a concern as you can click the tail switch when storing the light.
The S70s drain is way too high. I wonder if it’s ever been a problem for any owners?
I agree with the battery tube. I’d rather slip a piece of paper in the tube to prevent rattles with small batteries just so long as I can also fit the fatter cells in there.
I have never noticed any parasitic drain on my S70 because i always lock out the tail cap.
If you read me just one row further, you already have your answer 
I was not asking those questions myself. I know the answers because I read this thread.
A buyer will be less informed than me and I wanted to sample a few questions that buyers will be asking when presented with the choice you’re proposing.
If possible, do it “the Simon Way”. Ie, in the note-to-seller on AX, ask for one without glue.
I ordered a buncha 10W resistors, no way to select when ordering which ones you want (ie, no clicky-boxes as to what values you want), so you have to send them a note/mail/whatever on the site to tell them how many of what value(s) you want, else they default to all 5Ω or whatever.