I can understand why some people don’t like it, however tail clicky for on and off with side switch for modes has been my favourite configuration for the last year or so.
C8F 21700 2 switches function is my favorite side sw can put the light in standby mode and tail sw can use as momentary on if the light is not in standby but turn off by the tail sw.
I use the reverse hold with my L6 and even much larger SR-90 Intimidator, even the TR-J20. To date, have never tail stood any of those. I suppose sitting the light down in a can, jar, or stout glass would prevent it ftom being tipped over in a crisis. Propping it , say a barn floor, with whatever tool or large dead roach is handy, would still allow easy hands free use.
The redesign has a good look to it, makes it unique and looks robust.
For whatever it’s worth, a big light like this would have me prone to build an FET driver with 3 modes and ixnay the side switch altogether. I’d then use it in reverse or cigar grip most of the time. Probably just me, but if I get one of these that is quite likely how it will wind up. 18-20A XHP-70.2 for some 9,000 lumens, a stormy night light.
I’m not a fan of the dual switches because I find it hard to turn on the light and then manipulate the levels without adjusting my hand. The momentary function of a forward clicky tail switch can be fin, but not necessary for me.
What is it about the two switches that you prefer? How do you use it most often?
I guess everybody’s preferences are different. Tail switch with side switch has been my favorite, even a bit more than a single side switch with ramping firmware. I think you will like the SP70 because it should be the same as the C8F 21700, which can function as a side switch light click for on/off and hold for ramping. The tail switch doesn’t need to be used but if you want, you can use it for momentary on or to open the circuit to eliminate parasitic drain.
I don’t like that idea, because thermal grease usually eats aluminium.
Just screw it tight so all the threads are pressed against eachother should be enough.
What he meant is that thermal grease has small particles in it to transfer the heat. Those particles will wear down the aluminum faster than normal.
That’s sometimes called ‘eating up’ as in ‘it eats aluminum’.
So the wearing down of aluminum is caused by abrasive action and not chemical? So if that is the case, we could easily add thermal paste to the threads in the head since it is unlikely someone would keep turning the threads on the head.
Yes, adding thermal paste should be a user mod, not from the factory. Thermal paste makes a mess and would lead to complaints if done on the assembly line for sure.
I do not think it is necessary for Sofirn to do this. The BLF GT’s have a two piece head & no thermal paste was used.
If someone wants this they can always add it themselves.