Just a quick question guys
I have 1 light I’m willing to try this on.
Will soldering copper such as wick to the base and top of the spring help increase current?
Thanks as always.
If the light is a high-drain light and if the current is limited by the spring (without the mod) - then yes. I did a spring mod on a modest mod and it did nothing to the amp draw, however reducing resistance is always good.
Is it a hot rod?
I’m avout to get it out and check the current. Im pretty sure othong else has been done to it. Ot os one the fake Ultrafire T6’s that everyone is copying. It has all Latticebright component’s. I will male it into a great zoomie at some point. I just wanted to experiment with this copper spring.
So from what I read I just solder attach the wick to the base of the spring where it is already soldered and them at the top of the spring? 
Some solder wick has flux in it — I’ve been wondering if I need to clean that off somehow to prevent it from evaporating and affecting the LED or electronics eventually. Anyone know? Or have a source of copper braid with no flux on it?
I use quality speaker cable* made of many many thin stands (but still the problem is that it will suck up the solder and become stiff, like solder wick is supposed to do).
(Also, solder wick is rather thin, better use something more substantial i.m.o.)
I’ve never seen damage done by flux particles.
*1,5mm² (16AGW) brand: Caliber type: CS215B to be exact…
I’ve used solder wick instead of wire to bypass springs. It’s more flexible and has a larger surface area to handle more current than regular wire
I usually use 20 or 22awg wire instead of solder wick. With the spring moving up and down after a while it will break…from what I’ve seen on a few lights. Wire with a silicone covering will last over time, plus I always bypass my springs by drilling a hole through the pcb and running the wire directly to the switch leg.
Wash it with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush, Flux will be removed. I use it to clean my PCBs a lot.
I also use Solder wick. It comes in various grades, thickness and types of flux. It’s cheap enough and I have several rolls. I like the Green “No Clean” fluxed type in 2mm width.
Occasionally I get a bypassed spring using solder wick that sucks up solder too deep and binds the spring movement. That is a do over without question.
I also take off the switch before attempting a spring bypass, replace it when complete. Switches will go soft and fail if too much heat is applied. It is easy to avoid this issue.
+1,000,000 
Solder wick/braid is a short to medium term solution. 20 or 22AWG Silicone wire is a longer term solution.
Thank you to our Dale, who has taught & inspired many of us.
Best Regards,
George
Lol, that’s me every time I try to bypass a spring using solder wick. That’s why I go straight to the switch leg with wire. I guess I just get too solder happy.
I started out using braid, then I got customers reporting they broke off. Went to regular 20, 22, or 24 AWG multi-strain wire, same stuff we use for LED wires, and never had a failure, never went back. I mostly run the wire down the center of the spring. Full current is usually recovered 100% compared to 16 AWG wire pressed directly across the cell to host. I've checked before with the 16 AWG jumper, and after output in the light box.
I was soaking the flux off with isop. alcohol, and hard to keep the solder creeping up the ends. There's definitely better braid around, abd better techniques - the good stuff holds up better, and can come without flux, but I don't see the point when wire is all around a better fit. 22 AWG is fine for most uses, but I've used 24 in small springs, 20 AWG in the lights with high amps.
Well I accomplished nothing except finding out wick is a pain. No gain in anything that I can find. The spring came off lol that was loads of fun. I have Cree XM-L2 and new boards coming tomorrow for that light and 2 others. 2 more set’s coming soon. So no telling wjat I may do tonight. Can’t put the new stuff in until at least Wednesday.
And these 2 SK98 clones that also have real Cree’s and better boards actually seem better made than my orignal. Much deeper and better cit threads. If they turn out as well as I hope I may keep one of tjem for myself.
Every light I have used wick on the wick has broken eventually. Keep in mind that wiring the driver spring should be supplemented with wiring the tail spring also. In this particular light the small gauge tail spring with it’s metal cap is more restrictive than the larger gauge driver spring. If you push on the switch real hard the plastic retainer inside will pop out. I drilled a hole in the metal spring cap and soldered a wire from the top, through it, directly to the switch.
Didn’t think of that, thanks…
I’m going to get these clones cjanged over to XML 2’s probably Wednesday and Thursday. After that I’m going to start working on raising the bar in my own lights…
I use the salvaged speaker cable that goes from the speaker terminal on to the speaker cone, designed to flex many times a second and doesn’t seem to wick the solder in like the braided solder wick does, so it stays flexible 
True, it’s made for flexing.
You can buy it too:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-meter-copper-lead-wire-6-8-10-Woofer-speaker-Voice-coil-with-cone-Z571-ZY-/151932976371?hash=item235fe93cf3:g:3-QAAOSwCQNWg4HI
However, the silicone wire is also a good option, better than mine i think…
And it is even used on speakers too sometimes.
Another thing though…
Doing the tailspring is relatively easy.
But there’s usually also a spring on the driver, which is a lot harder to do…
Haven’t got round to doing something there, but i will when i decide to beef the driver up with some extra 7135s
Mine came today. Should have ordered wire as well. Not sure what’s on the board’s will be long enough. Will see after work.
I use scrap wire from old PC power supplies and I haven’t notice any wear and tear issues.