SOLVED BUT... Modded Tiablo A10.G - but stuck at switch

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Hi,

I have a Tiablo A10.G that I’ve been trying to basically update to a more “normal” driver and more recent emitter.

I’ve been able to replace the driver with this:

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-269/**NEW**–3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit/Detail

and I installed a Nichia 219 emitter on a 20mm PCB (from Illumination Supply).

I had some problems getting the driver secured (I had a separate thread on that today), but I think that I’m now good with that.

However, even after that, I found that it’s acting very strange.

When I click once, nothing happens. Second click, kind of dim beam, third click blink, 4th click off, etc. If I keep clicking, eventually it stops working, and when I pull the switch out, it smells like something is burning (not good, I know), but if I jumper the tailcap, the modes work ok.

So, I started looking at the tailcap switch. That switch has some circuitry on it, something that looks like a surface mount 3-pin regulator, and maybe a resistor, so I’m thinking that the tailcap switch may be more than just an on/off or momentary switch, so I’m looking to try to either modify the original switch, or replace it with some other switch.

I happened to have a McClicky from Lighthound awhile ago:

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-269/**NEW**–3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit/Detail

This switch actually fits the tailcap, but the problem is that the original switch made contact at the bottom of the switch (near the button), whereas that McClicky contact to ground is at the plate/ring at the spring end, but at least I know the dimensions of the switch I need is about the same as that McClicky.

Here’re some pics of the original switch setup:

The pieces:

The switch PCB (the 3-pin chip is on the right). Also notice that the trace goes around the PCB. When that goes into the holder, that trace contact the holder, and the holder goes into the tailcap, and that’s how it all connects to the body and the negative side of the emitter driver.

and the switch in the “holder”:

I guess, ideally, I’d like to make the original switch act like a normal switch, but I’m a little concerned about the burning smell, and because when I keep clicking the light stops working, so probably the best would be to find a switch that I could use to replace the original switch.

Can anyone suggest something to replace this?

Thanks,
Jim

Edit: Correction: This is the McClicky that I tried:

http://www.lighthound.com/McGizmo-McClicky-Pak-Switch-Module-with-holes-no-boot_p_3210.html

In this picture:

that metal semi-ring around the spring is what is suppose to contact negative, whereas, as mentioned above, with the original Tiablo switch negative contact is on the switch/button end.

Edit 2: I just realized that the whole tailcap from my C8s fit the Tiablo A10.G!! That seems to work fine now, and no more burning odor :)!

BUT, I noticed a new problem now: I only have a single mode. I think it’s high, because the tailcap current is showing 2.25 amps, but not 100% sure. I checked to make sure than none of the stars on the driver PCB are bridged, and also checked for any other solder bridges, but everything looks ok, so what else could cause the board to be only 1 mode?

Jacob A60 on stock - NOT
2

Jim,commonly the 105c's led -gets grounded to the outer ring causing it to be one mode.I have done it before many times,hope that helps.

3

Hi Darcangel,

Do you mean the output to the LED from the driver?

I don’t know if you saw an earlier thread where I had problems getting the driver mounted into the pill/module (couldn’t get solder to flow/stick). I ended having use arctic alumina to secure the driver to the brass ring opening.

In other words, I now can no longer access the non-spring side of the driver :)…

So if the loss of modes is because the LED- is grounded, then I don’t have any way fix that, unless I literally rip the driver out, and I’m not inclined to do that at this point :)!

Edit: BTW, thanks for that info, as I may be using this same driver, so it’s good to know.

4

Yes,the led negative can get grounded to the outer groung ring.Bugger that you can’t access it ,but you will know for next time.

5

DARCANGEL (or anyone else),

If the problem is what you said (LED negative grounded to the outer ground ring), does single mode that it gets stuck in get stuck at high mode? Or does it get stuck in some random mode?

I think that I mentioned that it seems to be stuck in high mode, based on the tailcap current being 2+ amps, but I’m not 100% of that, since I don’t have any other way of knowing what mode it’s in.

Jim

Edit: Actually, thinking about this (the grounding on the LED connection), I’ve always wondered if negative side of the connection to the LED from the driver were independent from the negative side of the connection from the battery.

From what you’re saying, it seems like the negative side of the connection to the LED from the driver SHOULD be different from the negative side of the connection from the battery?

In other words, if we consider the negative side of the connection from the battery as “ground”, then the connections from the driver to the LED are not “grounded”, i.e., a “floating ground”?

Is that correct?

I’m mentioning this because if this is the case, then on a setup where you’re trying to measure actual current to the EMITTER, the current meter has to be connected to that “floating ground”, and not to the flashlight body?

6

Hi,

I’m back to working on this light, and trying to figure out how to utilize the original tailcap.

As I mentioned above, a C8 tail cap does work, but I’d like to mod the original Taiblo tailcap working like a normal tailcap (i.e., jumper pass the circuitry).

BTW, I think I’ve found the source of the burning odor. I you look at the pic above in the OP, there’s a small chip next to the switch, and that is burnt.

I’m thinking I could jumper from somewhere on the PCB to the ground ring, but I’ve tried ohming between the spring and the 4 pins on the switch, and none of the pins seem to switch when the switch is clicked.

I’ve also ohmed between the spring and the ground ring on the PCB, and it’s always open.

Does anyone know how I can make this switch work like a normal switch?

Thanks,
Jim

7

Hi,

It’s been awhile, and I had found a C8 tailcap/switch that worked in my A10.G awhile ago, but it always bugged me about that C8 tailcap on the A10.G. It just didn’t “go” with the A10.G, stylistically.

So, I “got the bug” last night, and went through a bunch of spare and junk parts, and was finally able to replace the original switch in the original A10.G tailcap using the switch from a SolarForce reverse clicky kit. I used that with the original rubber boot, but I had to cut the length of the aluminum “cup” that was in the A10.G, to shorten it, so it now screws down into the tailcap like original, and it holds the SF click switch in place and provides ground connection to the tailcap.

So, I now have a “normal” reverse clicky switch, with none of the original Tiablo electronics. Much better!

I think I actually have an XM-L in it now (don’t remember when I did that :)!), with the 2100 mA 7135 driver from Shiningbeam still, and even though it’s an XM-L emitter, the beam is still really throwy.

I was looking at the Tiablo page:

That’s for the “R2”, but I think dimensions are probably the same. This light appears to have been designed as a thrower:

Now, I really like the light as a host for a thrower. It’s kind of like a JUMBO -sized A60, with the same type of separated light module.

So, I’m thinking what to put into it?

I definitely need to upgrade the driver to something more than 2100mA, but what about emitter? Maybe XP-G2 (I have some XP-G2s on 20mm Noctigons)?

8

First, plan how you are going to get high amps - easy enough to swap a couple dedomed emitters after that …