This thread is the continuation of the build of the light started in this contest entry that due to a number of problems could not be completed in time.
Below are photos of the battery tubes inserted into the tailplate. The 1/2” water line and wires are there to maintain position and alignment for fabrication and fitting of the driver and switch compartment and to help visualize possible addition of attachment points or other features. The separation of the tubes allows a variety of carry or attachment options in addition to the planned titanium handle and tripod mount. They’re just far enough apart to fit my fingers between the tubes. Due to the spacing of the tubes it will require a contact board between the battery terminals and the driver.
Left: Flared collars to be mounted on the battery tubes on the forward side of the tail plate to provide added strength to the joint and reduce possibility of movement. Made from a pair of 3/4” water line couplings flared manually to a bit over 1” using a crescent wrench to gradually and gently expand the ends. The ends of the couplings were covered with electrical tape during the process to reduce marring. One coupling provides two collars. Right: 1/2” flare to 3/8” pipe coupling with 3/8” end cut off and sanded flat. The 1/2” threads and nut will be cut to reduce height. This will be the switch housing.
Originally there were to be strips of brass joining the tubes but when I slipped the tubes into the tailplate I realized the spacing made it much more hand-friendly without them.
The drill I found to use. It’s a Power House model 150 made in Burlington VT. Oddly it runs on 110 - 120v ac or dc. High speed low torque and draws a whopping 1.2 amps!
Wish I could find the chuck key for my other option - an old Thor corded drill. Why is it some tools can survive in working order for 60+ years while newer tools can’t last 20?
FWIW, problems with the drill press were not unexpected. It’s a Companion that based on my research was made in 1945. I bought it from a friend whose husband got it from his employer (Goodrich aircraft brake plant in Cleveland) when they planned to scrap it. Needs bushings.
Here’s the head assembly in its current state with temporary wire tunnels using pieces of threaded lamp tube. The four smaller holes in the copper were drilled prior to revision from crossflow cooled to updraft cooled and reorientation of the heatsink and are not in usable locations. They only go to the layer of brass below and will be plugged with jb high heat putty. When fabrication is complete brass nipples will replace the brass plated steel lamp tubes. Though watertight prior to drilling for the wire tunnels I took the extra precaution of coating the interior with jb weld thickened by addition of a bit of fine pumice. If you look close you might also see the ring from a 105mm uv filter that will serve as attachment point for a complete uv filter assembly that will serve as the lens.
Here’s a side view. The threaded lamp tube will be cut to length and two 1/8” fip female elbows will attach to the driver housing providing a watertight path from the emitter housing. O-rings will seal from the outside and after wiring is complete rtv silicone will be used to seal around the wires to prevent water from reaching the driver and batteries in the event of submersion and lens breakage. A larger piece of tubing and 1/4” fip elbow positioned at the top will provide a path for power and pwm signal to the fan. The tube will have permanently mounted pins and the ends will use threaded caps with seals to prevent water infiltration. In the event of use without the fan the power connection would be sealed with a cap and the light used submerged (that’s the plan anyway). In the background is a piece of .080 ti-6al-4v a bit over 8” x a bit under 11”. A layer of this will be incorporated between the radiator housing and the driver housing to limit heat transfer from the emitters to the driver and batteries. The three tubes and elbows will provide additional strength and rigidity to the driver housing to radiator housing attachment.
I have my Dad’s old Thor drill. It is supposed to be a 1 man drill, only runs 150 or so RPM but has the torque of a V8 engine. I have drilled holes in 2 inch plate steel with it, but when it catches there is no brake and you may end up looking like a pretzel. When we used it we had a 1 foot pipe screwed in each side and we each took a side, this thing could easily break arms or wrists. They did run ac or dc, early on in the US remote farms often had a dc power plant. They could run some power tools, lights and electric heaters with them. I will try and post a pic of it… It should be around 70 years old!
Progress on the switch assembly. Same 1/2” compression to 3/8 pipe fitting shown previously. The switch is from an srk I used parts from for another project. The compression nut was cut off and sanded smooth as was the cut off piece which will be used as a jam nut. I hammered a scrap strip of waterline copper to .020 and used that to make a retaining ring for the switch for a very secure press fit. The inside where the wires go through is sealed with rtv silicone. An o-ring will be used to seal the switch to the driver housing and inside the nut a piece of rubber will seal the switch assembly. The switch retaining ring will also act as a stop for the captive button assembly that will include a spring to hopefully provide decent feel and eliminate rattling.
Most of the blisters were from hand turning the drill press. The one on the top of the index finger was from filing threads off of the male hose couplings to create a recessed area for the o-rings to seal the battery tube caps.
Test fitting two layers (4 pieces) of copper water line flattened and shaped for the switch and driver housing. When completed it will be significantly shorter. There are bends to be made on the tail end for mounting a cap and the head end for a mounting flange. The flat sides will make it easier to attach the fan and power tunnels and tripod mount. There will be an additional layer of brass covering the outside of the finished part.
Here are the major body portions positioned to give a rough idea of how it will look with a ruler and Courui D01 to give an idea of how big it is. I just noticed the battery tube assembly was set a bit crooked and turned 90 degrees ccw but you get a general idea of the goal.
The one on the top of the index finger was from filing threads off of the male hose couplings to create a recessed area for the o-rings to seal the battery tube caps.
