sofirn if23. just now won’t turn on. worked 2 hours or so ago. checked battery, 4.1v is good. different battery same thing. plug in type c and flashlight works even with no battery or tail cap. cleaned positive contact and tested tailcap for continuity to spring, beeped so good.
i don’t know. not sure what’s going on.
and when i plug it in, it charges the battery is what really confuses me
If it works with usb C but not with the battery, and the battery is charged, it has to be something not making contact with what it should somewhere.
i figured same. thought the positive post was not making contact somewhere so i tried to charge it and it’s taking a charge.
I’ll let it sleep til tomorrow.
alright so i think i found the issue. it actually wasn’t charging the battery. i realized this when removing the battery while still plugged in. usb meter showed same. so no battery connection.
took it apart and broke out the solder and noticed that the posts/joints above the red positive and black negative wires moving. the mcpbc was moving separately from the joints.
do i need a new mcpbc or blobing solder on top will work?
I think those two blobs are not for electrical connection and instead hold the MCPCB to the shelf. At least that’s my theory with the SC02 but I haven’t tried opening it up yet.
This light has a unibody design, right? Does it look like the driver can be removed through the body? If not, then it was put in through the head and you would need to remove the solder to fully disassemble it.
Before you disassemble further, it’s not locked-out is it?
there were 2 screws holding the mcpbc down. i can get movement felt at the posts on the head if i stick my finger through the body and wiggle the driver. so those posts maybe hold the driver switch charger combo in place? seems like if i can remove mcpbc i can just slide the whole unit out. including the side mcpbc if i rotate it 90*.
yes unibody. no driver pulling gives me movement felt at the posts so no can do.
it auto locks. this has the auto lock. when plugged in i tried to unlock but nothing. only on or off when plugged in. locked can cause issues?
edit
btw ty for input
if those posts are not electrical then i believe i can just solder them down. think maybe its the ground for the driver. must be. damn driver unit just very slightly moves about.
gonna pressure the posts down and see what’s up.
i think grounding…must be brb
Hmm, bit of a mystery. From the pic it looks like the screws could hold the MCPCB to the body, and the posts/solder hold the driver to the MCPCB. If the driver were installed through the head, it would need something to keep the battery from pushing on it - either a retaining ring or these posts, which might make it simpler to produce.
Those could be for groundong, but if the light turn on when plugged into USB I don’t think it has a grounding issue.
i pulled the solder away from the post so it touched the cracks on the mcpbc. voila.
thank you brother. i thought the posts were positive and negative before you replied.
I’m pretty tough on my work lights. dropped this one more than 10x on steel flooring, concrete asphalt, a few ink and chemical showers too. most times it landed on the head. that must of been what broke the posts from the mcpbc. glad it’s fixed.
I’m glad you got it fixed. Nice job!
Glad you fixed at least one of their quality issues, at least for now. Soldering looks pretty poor in general to me. Those R/B wire joints look like ‘cold solder joints’ to me (dull and grainy, vs shiny), so your work may not be finished…
Might just be my screen and my aging eyes though!
the original solder on the posts were nice. yeah the pos and neg leads, not so nice.
this problem i had with this if23 was most likely caused by my poor handling of the flashlight. but i feel there’s room for improvement. basically the driver is just loose in that cavity with 2 solder joints to the mcpbc for stability. and 2 screws holding mcpbc. that’s why this thing heats up fast on the main emitter.
Good thermal coupling.
yes. so the heat can dissipate more efficiently. if there were more points contacting the unibody to the heat generating parts that’d help. but then the area you hold the light might get hot quicker. right now most the heat stays at the head idk. give take
I agree. The red wire, in particular, definitely needs to be redone.