This might be a bit of a strange thing to ask but at least it is very specific:-)
Thing is, I am looking for a small, cheap, Chinese torch (or just the host) where the LED sits as flush as possible with the top of the torch once the front has been removed.
Something like this:
(I think that’s an Ultrafire U20)
!!:
I live in Shanghai and can buy a lot of flashlights online from local vendors but I don’t have much experience in this field, so that’s why I am now digging into the vast treasure of accumulated knowledge here:-)
Hoping you can throw some specific model names my way for me to hunt down.
Also,
Would be nice if the torch has an XP-G in it. And takes either an 14500 or 18650 cell. Even better if dimming goes way down.
I don’t care much about the beam quality with front attached. What is important is that the LED is not hidden deep in the light or inside the front element
And now a bit of explaining for those who have been wondering:
I am a documentary photographer and I intend to reflow a hi-cri XP-G onto this light and use it without the front for soft fill light in very low light circumstances.
Reach is not important but wide and soft quality light is (I work close to people).
Dimming is more important but I could put in another driver as well.
I know hi-cri LEDs tend to be warm in color. Again, not a problem at all as most of the time, when I shoot indoors in low light, the place will be lit by incandescent light anyways.
Also, I’d rather have it small (one cell) as I will only use it for a few mins here and there and like to travel as light as possible.
The front will be attached for protecting the LED when torch is not in use and I guess for walking around in the dark so I am am not picky at all about beam quality.
On a very related side note, I am pretty close to ordering the ZebraLight H51Fc for this exact usage but I don’t mind having a crack at finding/making a modded solution myself. Also, if anyone knows how much juice the Zebra driver puts out, I’d be interested to hear. (I would think it is 1A as that’s what it seems the Luxeons are rated at.)
The Manta Ray M2 has a well exposed LED and tail stands nicely. I’m very happy with mine. Here’s a link with pics of the head removed but you can buy it for much less elsewhere.
Might I recommend a Nichia 219 in place of the HCRI XP-G, it uses the same solder pad as the XP CREE’s and is a much better emitter than the cree, cri is 92+ and the CCT is 4200-4500 so not to warm.
Some people refer to the no-reflector /no optic setup as a “mule”
Great guys,
Thanks so, so much. This was exactly what I had hoped for!
TrueRMS, yes - I have read great things about the Nichia 219 and I have been looking. But they are just hard to source in China. For Hi-Cris, I have only found XP-Gs so far out here. I’ll keep looking though.
As for the links so far, I am def leaning towards the Manta for its size and the LED is PERFECTLY placed for my needs:-). I would not be surprised if its driver could still be used for an XP-G or if it is 6-8*7135-based, I guess I could snip of a few of them. I have XP-G stars, so that’s not an issue.
The A60 doesn’t look bad either, but I don’t have a need for the bigger reflector, so I’d rather keep the whole torch smaller.
I did come across some Crelants a few days ago, but it is literally 100s of lights ago, so I lost touch with it again. Will look again.
Just researched Crelant a bit more. So far, they seem like the best bet because of the infinite dimming.
The CRELANT V11A would have been pretty perfect had it had the 1-100% dimming, but it doesn’t seem to.
With my newfound lingo I should rename the thread:
Looking for small torch which can be muled and dims from 1-100%
Ultrafire MCU-C7s will tailstand, do candle mode, and takes a 16mm MCPCB so XPG/XPG2 is no problem. The pill does come set up for a small driver (I think 15mm?) but a standard 17mm driver can be soldered onto the rear face of the brass adapter ring. This one is using a neutral (5000K) XPG2, 4-mode 8x7135 driver with moon/low/mid/high, runs on 16340.
The reflector is loose inside the bezel when removed but it can be retained by a little silicone sealant to stop it getting lost.
Hi Comfychair,
Great option as well. I like that they are so small. I am beginning to think I could carry two. One in my hand when shooting (handheld was the idea the whole time) and then I could put another out of the frame for fill… At least, I am thinking I really do need at least one of these. Maybe on its own, maybe with a bigger light or maybe with a twin:-)
In reg. to the driver (8 * 7135), I am a bit surprised, but reckon it’s OK to run XP-Gs that high, but prolly just not very efficient?
Also, can I ask if you have a link or name of that driver with four modes?
Got it, tx!
And actually, I just went through most of your earlier threads as that clip had me puzzled…:-).
Just curious, but did you do a write up on modding this light?
No, I didn't give the MCU-C7s its own thread, but I do have some pictures of the process.
Exploded view, shows old & new driver, old/new LED, the removable brass ring the driver mounts to (can't solder to aluminum):
I tinned both the brass ring and the ground ring on the new driver, held them in place with clips, then went round and round with the iron until they were fully seated:
Finished and filed down smooth:
Pill assembled & tested:
The pocket clip came from here: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1281100
Use the clip as a template and mark the screw locations, drill, tap for M2 screw thread... threading the tailcap is easier than using the included nuts, the inside surface where the nuts would seat is angled and would need to be machined flat, tapping is less trouble in the end. (if you get the sizing just right with the drilled hole, you can thread the holes with the screws (with some carnuba wax on the threads to prevent galling) without needing a M2 tap)
Runtime isn't great but that's the 16340's fault. Still, this much light for 20-25 minutes on high mode isn't bad considering how small the thing is.
another vote for the t2, you can fit a nanjg ak47 aand use cimfys guide on tapping the pill to retain the mcpcb.
it also has a tripod thread on the tailcap so you could mount and direct it as required. fasttech has a good price on it and also do a good xpower holster which fits perfectly and has made this my go too home edc, I would suggest getting a dr jones programmed driver for a huge selection of modes and whilst I run mine at 1.7a (1 stacked chip) currently, I intend to fit a copper mounted high cri xp-g2 and an 8*7135 dr jones programmed driver for a moon to high set up. It’ll take any 18650 I have tried from a keeppower 3400 to the fat sanyo protected 2900 cells i like from fasttech.
I like this thread:-)
And I like the fact that the T2 has a 1/4 thread as I do sometimes stand or hang my small video light from a gorillapod just like gords. I didn’t think I could get this in a flashlight tho.
For now, I’ll go with the T2 and perhaps either an MCU-C7s or a Crelant. The latter is by far the most expensive though and biggest if I want it with the 1-100% dimmer.
Speaking of dimmers, I might just have found a 7135x8 driver which has a setting for 100, 50, 30, 5, 1% output, so I ordered some of those. I might be in luck!
Am I correct in understanding that I can just unsolder as many of the 7135s as I want to to get to my desired output? And would you think that the modes would still be the same percentage wise?
!:
