I’ve just started to get into led strips as I’m decorating my car……the kit u posted I have seen and an planing to order but want to know if it is possible to connect to the car battery somehow…… as it has a power pack b 4 the control box how would this b possible as it is mainly for wall sockets…… would I remove the power.pack and attach the cable that goes in to the control box directly to the battery with a fuse added to.the wire……. would I keep the power pack and cut the plug off the power lead and.attack that to the battery or is there a connector I would have to buy seperate. ……., I know it is possible to do.as.I have seen vehicles with the light kit fitted …………n e help on this would b a.great help here’s the link to the kit http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/131324327224?nav=SEARCH
You can power them with a 12 volt battery. I have done it many times on RC models with 3s lipo packs.
This is a real post lol ….I’m a complete.noob with this.stuff ……normally the lights I get r for cars specifically but this.is.for home use .
So if this is able to run Off a 12v car battery then y does it need a power pack ……does it not need 24v to drive the 12v controller.?
……I’m only asking as I don’t want.to.blow it as soon as I get it …and if it is ok to connectt directly to a 12v car battery how would I do it ……do I remove the power pack from the equation and use the the cable linking to the control box as the power supply meaning do I open the power box ,unsolder the wire then connect that to the battery……do I need to add a fuse to that wire ?
Welcome to the forum sparliff. Like unit311 said, that control unit should run fine off your car's "12 volt" system. As you suggested, the wall power adapter is not needed. See the wire in the below picture that goes all the way to the top of the picture? You would just wire that into your car's electrical system. Most likely the Red wire would connect to positive and the black negative/ground. The control box should have an indicator as to which post on the jack is positive and which negative. Use that to verify Red is positive and Black is negative.
Best of luck on the lighting mods. Please let us know how it goes.
Brilliant TY so much and I’ll let u know how it goes
I would do some digging to see if anyone else has put it in a car before, because a running car does not give 12v, but around ~14.4v, with some nasty transients every now and then.
I don’t think it will be a problem, but fair warning and all that.
So would u advise my putting a fuse on the wire that attaches to the battery then and if so what amp fuse……I do.t wanna hook it up and then blow the controller box
^ Yes, for sure. Any system can develop a short or other problem where power should be disconnected. The control box should hopefully say how many amps it needs. You want a fuse that will cover that much current.
A fuse will protect against amperage spikes, but not against voltage spikes. I’m not sure if a capacitor is what you want to absorb any random spikes but its my first thought.
So what size resistor and what size fuse would I need and how would I wire it in to the power wire
If you look at the lower part of your ad, you’ll see that you will need to provide this:
Perhaps this may be useful:
DC-DC CC CV Buck Converter Step-down Power Supply Module 7-32V to 0.8-28V 12A T7
The ad seems to indicate it might.
Just curious, if you’re in the UK, does the MOT allow all these weird animated colours on your cars?? Probably they will, but I’d bet other drivers will complain enough to get regulations installed. OTOH, I could easily see where, e.g. making it all RED whenever you apply the brake, or tying the LEDs on the sides to the turn signals for that side, might be quite clever…
Yeah I’m in the UK and we r not allowed to use those kind of lights while driving only when parked up but I’m adding all these lights to the car for when I go to car meets ….interior lights r ok as long as there not.too.bright or cause a distraction …… I currently have el wire installed in the doors and center console as well as running lights under the dash and there all 12v .
C one of my friends said last night that this kit should b ok to use as it requires 12v to cooperate and the fact that I have all these other lights running and they havnt blows means it should b stable enough……….all I can do is try ……trial and error I guess but a couple of the sellers have said as long as its connecting to a 12v battery it should b good also
Here’s a little tidbit you can talk about with your mates at the meets:
Did you know, with this kit (and a few serious upgrades) you can exceed the Speed of Light?
It’s true!
Here’s how:
Imagine a strip of LEDs. There’s a light source at one end, doesn’t matter what. You start the beam from the light source traveling along the LED strip, at the Speed of Light, toward the other end. It takes (Speed of Light * Length of Strip) time to get there. Call that time ‘x’. Next, you trigger your sequence of LEDs such that each lights up in turn, and the difference in time between the first and last is less than that ‘x’ time from the first step. Ta-daaa! Speed of Light, beaten!
Okay, I didn’t say it would be easy… Or fair.
Lmfao that’s way too deep for me hahahah