Suggest me a 1x18650 powerfull small EDC

So what do you think of this light ?

Hi jerry. This post covers the driver options and pro’s/cons of each.

The two digits at the end 5c 7c etc are emitter tints, I suggest reading up on scaru’s emitter thread for all the info on this.

When you ordered the xiozhi, did you go for the 3c tint?

What fastechs convoys offer is the opportunity to experiment with neutral white or warm white tints for not much money, and choose run time (4*7135) over output and overheating (8*7135). It’s a very good buy to be honest. But I would use it as a chance to see if you like neutral or even warm tints over cool white.

Personally, I like 4c myself but I am still experimenting to find my ideal. It does make more of a difference than you’d think, I wouldn’t buy a u2 option as this could just duplicate your recent purchase.

I built the intloutdoor host with a u2, and to be honest, it’ll get pulled soon as I much prefer the tint of my t2 with an xp-g 4c to the 1c of the u2.

Bookmark this link for the "Chart of Tints". I reference it all the time!


Hi Jack,
I like the XIAOZHI, but not really better than the 2100. I like the capability to choose the 3 mod option. I do notice that the threads are better than the 2100. I wish they had the option of using two cr 123 batteries.

Thanks for the help. I should have also asked about the mA figures like 1050, 1400, etc. I notice that they go to 2800 mA. I do not know if the figures refer to the load or what. I would assume that the one that used 1050 mA would have longer run times. I don’t know how much more time we are talking about, however.

My own preference would be for longer run times, but how much brightness would I lose using the 1050 mA light vs the 2800 mA?
You can see I am not knowledgeable at all here.

I ’kinda hate to ask what is the difference between the S2 and S3 versions?

As for the tint on the XIAOZHI I went for the T6 because it was cheaper, and I did not know what it meant anyway.
I bookmarked the tint chart Garry, and thanks.

Thanks for the help.

And these EDC host?
Good or not good for XM-L and 1,4A driver? (I already have LED and driver)

Lots of good info in that thread gords posted above including discussion on S2 vs. S3. I also linked Match's thread on XM-L (& other emitters) testing (output at various current levels) in post #6 in that thread - here is link to Match's test (note that a T6 bin was tested, so U2 would be slightly higher). At 1050mA you're looking at +/-395 lumens, vs. +/-852 lumens at 2,800mAh according to that chart. (Bookmark that thread too - I reference it all the time.)


Looks like a good host to me. I almost bought one myself.


Neckdo, that host looks pretty good price wise, I’d guess it needs a 16mm star as it doesnt seem to say, at 1.4a you’ll have plenty of run time and good flood with the xm-l/op reflector, and its unlikely to over heat.

For both you and Gerry, a typical high current for xm-l is 2.8 - 3.0a (2800ma - 3000ma) you can go higher in the right host, but I wouldn’t want to in an edc, their just not big enough, one of my edc’s runs at 1.7a (trustfire t2, nw xp-g) one at 2.6a (edc 18650, u2 1c) one at 2.8a (xiozhi xm-l 3c). All get hot on high fairly quick (minutes) if your not holding them in hand. I use medium and low mostly, so 1.4a would be my medium on two, 1a is close to the t2’s medium all three have usefully high lows, I could easily go lower but they are not uncomfortable when used as night lights when the baby wakes up or checking the other kids.

I hope all this helps.

I got most of the above, I'm bad at deciding ... Love the T2 for throw/feel, but my modd'ed HD2011 w/U3 1C @2.8A is my latest "wow" - really nice wide beam from the shallow, heavy OP'ed reflector, and the 1C provides just enough neutral tint for me -- cheap housing, but for $10 +$10 or so in parts, it's the brightest of the lot and the heat is tolerable (potted driver, teflon 22 gauge wires, thicker star, Arctic epoxy).

The XIAOZHI is nice though - nice mode UI, nice feel, no SS head though, it is 2.8A - think the listing says 2.3A. My ceiling bounce test says the mod'ed HD2011 beats the XIAOZHI, the T2, and the I-O EDC 18650 @2.8A. Didn't mod the T2 yet, but will be doing it like Gords, but in cooler tint.

Many thanks, garry. There is some real good information in the references you provided.
It was interesting to learn that the S3 is 4mm shorter than the S2. That might be the difference in the body accepting the Panasonic protected battery.
Considering that heat builds up pretty fast in these type lights, I am thinking I might go the S2 2100 and using it on low most of the time. That might let me use the Panasonic protected battery, and have a relatively run time at a reasonable light level for most tasks.

I really do appreciate all the help and the information you have provided.

Jerry, in that situation I think you’ll have a real good edc :bigsmile:

Tom, get an xp-g2 in the t2, I’m hoping to do an edc shoot out later, with a few others added, but I put an xp-g2 in my uf-v3, I used an m10 driver as mine was real underdriven, 2.5a on the u2, 2a on the xp-g2. Have a look at the crappy beam shots here :-

These really don’t do it justice, I’m hoping to do better, but I want an xp-g2 and another 350ma in the t2, you’ll love it. 8)

Gords - interesting... I got an extra XP-G2 and need a new emitter in my UF-V3, so... I got a KD V2 @3.4A in the UF-V3 now with a brass pill press fitted in - came out real nice. The UF-V3 lacks weight/mass but the brass w/copper inserted into that pill worked out well. Do you think an XP-G2 can handle 3.4A?

I know you’re asking gords, but you know there’s only one way to find out! Actually, according to Match’s test, it started giving less output after 2.6A.


Yep - forgot, Match is the man! Hhhmm, wonder if those super $$$ new XP-G2 throwers are only in that range of amps (SaabLuster's OSTS TN31, the Deft X). I know they are bonding to copper, so maybe they can tweak out more amps? I know there's been a published chart on CPF showing an XML increasing output higher than Match's show, but who knows...

Saablusters pushing close in 4a through an xp-g2, but its direct copper bonded, as I say, mine pulls 2a from the driver that’s in, its damm throwy that’s for sure. Why not shove a 6*7135 in there to kick off with? I’m actually buzzing from what I get out of so little juice - run time from a 3400mah cell! :bigsmile:

Hey, TomE, can you post all of them together? Beamshots only, wanna see beam profiles. Not necessary on high, but pics shouldn’t be overexposed. Thanks a bunch :wink: :beer:

Just thinking about this, when my uf-v3 had an xm-l it drew 2.5a, put in the xp-g2, it only pulled 2a. I asked johnnymac about it and his comment was it’ll only pull what it wants, maybe try hooking it up and testing with a meter before screwing the tailcap on, it’ll take what? Ten minutes at most, you don’t even need to remove the pill, just screw the head off, whole light into some soft jaws, solder away. :bigsmile:

Gords - oh boy - I'm dragging us off topic on the UF-V3, I'm posting a reply to your Uf-V3 thread:

SashiX - I can post beam shots, got a setup for it, hopefully this morn.

My Xiaozhi arrived today, a lot of chips/cuttings on the inside, I had to take it apart and clean it all over.
Now I like it !

Nice. It’s a great light. 8)