Sunwayman V11R driver


I’m new here and to flashlights in general, Recently bought a V11R and wasn’t happy with its runtime so I decided to take it apart and mess with it and here are my findings.

This driver uses 2 boost converters CFC6J is SD3303 3.2v out to the LED and E50D is CE8301 5v out to 316BCG the hall sensor.
Efficiency is slightly less than 50% running on a AA battery, about 40mins on full brightness. that’s it for now, replaced it with ZL SC5c II, much better runtime and a bit brighter.

I envy you all who can look at a driver and figure out all that stuff.
Im guessing the ZL SC5c II is a whole new driver since 50℅ efficiency sounds low for me from what I have read so far on this forum (I’m new here to).

Did some googling.
If I google for the right flashlights the Sunwayman V11R have a click switch at the tail and you adjust the brightness by twisting the head.
The zebralight SC5c II have a e-switch and you took that driver and putted into the Sunwayman V11R.
How did you make that work?

No, I replaced the whole light, meaning I throw the V11R away and I’m using the ZL now and correct the V11R uses a magnetic ring control to adjust the brightness, if you looking to buy a AA flashlight you cant go wrong with the SC5c II, very well built and nice tint, doesn’t run hot like the V11R and very good regulation, using Eneloop 2450 mah it would run for 10 mins full output followed by a step down to about half brightness (probably the PID kicking in) and would stay there for about 2 hrs and a half then another 20 mins of low brightness before it dies out. If you interested I can post a picture of the ZL driver.

I’d love to see any info you have about the ZL drivers. I’ve got lots of those lights. They’re great; I love them. I’ve even had a couple apart (partially, never fully disassembled), done an emitter swap in one and planned in another, but those things are really not designed to be “user serviceable”.

Just an FYI, I’m sure you could find a buyer for the V11R here on BLF.

I removed the LED and soldered 2 wires to hook up to my dc loader and take some measurements, emitter swaps are easy if using a smd heat gun setting the air on lowest to prevent blowing away those tiny components, I guess the hardest part is removing the bezel without having to break the lens, pretty much all ZL are built the same way (best driver build quality I have ever seen IMO), this board has 4 inductors sitting between them is the boost driver in which ZL for the first time decided to put an oval burn mark on the IC to hide the code marking,

Ill keep it, ill actually try to mod it, Thanks for letting know though.

Is this one of ZL’s ‘potted’ drivers?

Yes, they put a thin potting mainly on the component pins, I cleaned it up.

Thanks… I thought ‘potting’ looked more like this

Thanks… I thought ‘potting’ looked more like this

You’re right, It’s does look like that on elzetta and malkoff flashlights but not ZLs.

I also tried a V11R and decided to stop using it because it cannot hold constant brightness. After I let go of the control ring, the brightness keeps changing, up or down, without any input on my part.

I then did a test to see if it was responding to the Earths Magnetic field, and Imo it IS

I can make the light change brightness simply by turning the whole light to a different position. There is absolutely Zero regulation to the V11R, and I had to constantly keep changing the position of the control ring, to try and keep the output constant.

watch this video, you might understand better:

and just so you can see a control light, to demonstrate regulated output compared to the V11r, watch this

Bottom line, if constant output after selecting the desired brightness is a goal, the V11R is a FAIL