Hmm, so it’s sensitive to about ½ gauss. Interesting.
found another source for the extender:
http://www.eliteflashlights.com/sunwayman-ap05-aa-extender-for-m10r-m11r-v10r-v11r-p-124.html
( I have no knowledge about this company)
I got my extender, it increases the size of the light to around 97mm, my Folomov EDC C4 with a 18650 is 99mm…
Ever since I opened my light up to change the LED to a XP-L Hi 3A tint something has been bothering me, where does this part fit? I found it after I reassembled the light back and after testing that it works fine without it, but I don’t know where it suppose to go, any help will be appreciated.
Credit to UPz for the disassembled image of the V11R, the part is marked with the red arrow…
thank you, I spaced out. I was looking for the Niteye 10….
I don’t remember encountering that part while swapping my V11R’s emitter.
EDIT: Could it be this? The photo is from the blog post mentioned a few posts ago about re-greasing the magnetic ring.
Yes, it would make a great science class show and tell but I found it extremely frustrating.
If I stood in my living room and turned right the light would get brighter, and if I turned left it would get dimmer!
Of course, somebody else might buy that light and love it. Im sure most people have no idea what Im talking about… this is just me and my particular style of interfacing with flashlights, I shine them at walls, I put them on light meters, I hold them in my mouth, under my hat, and sometimes in my hands, but, I dont clip them to my pocket, and I dont use them with weapons, nor do I care about how far I can throw them… lol
imo any rotary UI is worth experiencing… the fine points of regulation, tint, and flicker, aside
wait, no, I disagree with my former self
For ME regulation, tint, and flicker are make it or break it features, I want my cake, and I want to eat it too!
so my RRT-01 has embarked on its swap to sw45… Im left to wonder if there is some sort of resistor mod that would offset any differences between the Vf of the stock LED and the replacement LED…
but, I have no real idea how all that works at the modding end, I dont build em, I just test em
Thanks goshdogit! Yes, that looks like the part I have leftover I will check and see if it fits there, What is it being used for?
Hmmm… I tried and it does fit in there, didn’t notice anything different so I just removed it and put it back in the box where I had left it.
Do you think that is being used to seal the light from water? maybe I should put an oring in there?
Thanks!
AlexGT
In that photo, it looks like the silver ring is keeping the o-ring in its groove.
I just re-opened my light and that silver ring is not there. I’m nearly positive that it wasn’t there when I first opened it either.
Perhaps it was a design change at some point?
That ring AlexGT was to create a little space for the control ring to move freely without being squashed down tight when assembled. The V10Rti had this ring and on the other forum members noted to be careful and not lose the ring or the head had to be left slightly loose in order to free up the ring to turn. When I first swapped the emitter for a 219 sw45 4500k in the V10R I tried it without the ring. It worked just as good without the ring and hasn’t been in since. These could have been removed in the newer models with a slight design change. I haven’t seen one in my 4 samples but I haven’t looked either.
Do either of you notice a difference in the smoothness of the visual ramping of the output with and without that ring in place? Specifically, the complaints about skipping or sudden increases in brightness as if the V11r had modes instead of ramping. I have one without the ring and it’s ‘almost’ perfectly smooth. I only have the one to try right now.
My V11R ramps smoothly and doesn’t have the silver ring.
Mine came in today and they are in excellent condition and operate flawlessly ……… so far
The packaging and light for the 3 I bought came in perfect condition. I also bought 3 AA extenders from Illumn and they are all working great. I love the UI but not a fan of CW tint. One of these days, I’m going to swap the emitter for SST20 or 219B 90+ CRI.
I tried one of the metal switches that comes with the V11r tonight. It was just like everyone had said, floppy and loud, like hollow feeling and imprecise…so I filled it with Norland and put it back on and now it’s actually not bad. It is a solid press now. Has the nice side effect of getting grease on my fingers every time I push the button. Ok so it wasn’t one of my better ideas. In my defense I’ll try almost anything once. I may repack it with something small and less greasy like O-rings.
There are soooooo many things I could compare this to, Butttttttttt we live in the ” New World ” (No Fun Allowed) now, so you all will just have to use your imagination.
Most people have to wait many years to laugh at some of the things they did. I guess I’m just ahead of my time. Thanks for finding the humor in it!
I have thought about filing down the machine grooves or just sand them out and polish the button up to see if that would help. Seems to me the button rides some of those machining grooves on the way down.
I’m spending alot of my free time figuring this driver out to up the current. I got some parts in today so I’m going to see how the upgraded components work out. For the first test with just 2 component’s changed for better one’s I did manage to get a good increase. Hoping these other components will gain even more and maybe a little better efficient.
The problem in the metal switch is the material in which it is made. Titanium rubbing against titanium, isn’t pretty, galling, scratching, many high end knife makers found out the hard way about titanium vs. titanium issues. Nice idea, poorly engineered, a brass ring around the titanium button would have worked fine.