Supfire M6 - resistor mod (Update testing XP-G2s on copper in post 59-60)

...continued..

Supfire M6 XP-G2 R5 3C on copper with SRK reflector @ 2,95 average vs SRK XM-L2 T4 5B1 @ 3,09 on copper

Same lights, longer distance:

I think the reflector change made a huge difference in real life. Much nicer beam, no rings or anything. I think the comparison is interesting too. We are basically looking at XP-G2 vs XM-L2 in similar reflector at quite similar current.

De-domed XM-L would still win when it comes to throw, but the beam is very useful with the XP-G2. Ill keep this light like this and see how I like it once I have used it more.

I have a feeling I will stick to my beloved XM-Ls, like I do in most lights. But I have not tried de-domed XP-G2s....

To be continued.. some day...


That is some great work there, RaceR86!

Cant tell you how many times i’ve done this :weary: Always outside when comparing beams too. Than I have to wait 10min for night vision to come back lol

Only 10 min? Your lights aren’t bright enough…

Thanks JM! :)

[quote=TrakTuned]

Cant tell you how many times i’ve done this :weary: Always outside when comparing beams too. Than I have to wait 10min for night vision to come back lol
[/quote]

Glad to know Im not the only one. I have done it 3 times. Last time was pointing the light directly at my face, having the flashlight 30 cm away and full output to XP-G2s. If the wannabe-SOS started with a blink instead of a long pause, that would never happen.

Who said this flashlight hobby isn't dangerous.. And its the supposedly "rescue-mode" that is killing me/my eyes.. :p

As for having XP-G2s in this light. As can be seen by the pictures, output is certainly less. But the beam is incredibly useful for outdoor walking in the nature and such. Which can not be seen as good on the wide-angle pictures taken from a slightly elevated position.

The XP-G2 light is much better balanced in terms of what you are looking at everywhere. Basically, stuff in the distance are easier to see, not only due to slightly more throw, but also due to having less close-up flood messing up your long distance view.

Going back and forth between the XP-G2 and the XM-L light made me realize how overly bright the XM-L light is within the first meters if you are doing general walking out in the nature.

All in all, the XP-G2 does not impress much in terms of throw, it does not impress me much in terms of light output, it probably does not impress much in terms of being regulated at close to 3A, nor does it impress that much in terms of light output vs battery-time/heat. Despite all that, its quite likable due to the useful beam.

De-domed XM-Ls are more impressive though, and also have a very useful beam if you want quite good throw.

Quick report: I just shorted the remaining pad with a soldier bridge but didn’t see an improvement in current, input wise. It didn’t have in increased tailcap current at all.

Mounted 9 - 100 milliohm resistors (3 per circuit). Results are pretty awesome. Light is noticeably brighter than my neighbors Nitecore TM15. So after a little work a $35 Supfire can smoke a $200 Nitecore. I LOVE IT. After taking it apart to do the mod, I like it even more. Zip tied wires, super beefy construction, and great factory output. Hard to beat the value in the groupbuy. Pretty amazing. Thanks Pulsar.

I was planning on mounting 3 xml2-u2’s on Noctigon’s. After last nights test, I think I’m leaving it as is. Not sure what dedoming would accomplish. It throws pretty well as-is with lots of flood. Currently, I can light up the whole side of a large (300ft tall) sand dune at 100 yards.

Yes, it does heat up quickly. I ran Moli 18650’s in it for the test and my wallbuys Panasonics just showed up this afternoon. I’ll see if there’s any noticeable difference. I can try to get a current measurement when I get some time. Definitely hotter than 2.5amps/emitter!!

De-domed SRK vs modded SRK

Im currently testing 3 XP-G2s in my M6. 2 are de-domed. :)

Compared to the non-de-domed NW XP-G2s I had in it some days ago, im seeing even lower emitter current. So maybe someone was right about de-doming raising vf..

Batteries: Fresh NCR18650B

XP-G2 R4 2,45A

XP-G2 R5 de-domed 2,44A

XP-G2 R5 de-domed 2,82A

Total amps: 7,71

2,57A average

That is quite a lot less then I had with my first XP-G2 setup.

Thank you very much for posting these RaceR86! :slight_smile:

This helped a lot in deciding whether to swap the XM-L2s of some of my lights to XP-G2s or not. :slight_smile:

Hi, I have 3 R051 resistors would these be ok in the empty resister pad? I dont wanna cook my U2’s

Should not be a problem. Its pretty much the same what me and others have done.. (in your case, as long as you only use one on each empty place)

Good luck!

thanks RaceR86

loving this mod… so easy to do than stacking 7135’s
I put 2 R120s on each circuit just to be on the safe side…
oh my ! it blew my SRK away easily… the only thing I regret is not buying more of these lights.
as it is very easy to mod :smiley:

Come on Pulsar… get another round of Group Buy on these lights!! tell them it’s for black Friday :smiley:
BTW if anyone crazy enough wants to trade their M6 with my SRK or 6 XML2 SRK pm me :wink:
heck… I’ll even pay shipping on both ways just to show how much I love these light :slight_smile:

You are supposed to say these lights are junk. I will send someone a king and pay shipping both ways to help you properly dispose of these lights

I have been thinking about seeing about a round two group buy. We had sold something like 78+ in the original though, not sure just how many will sell in the round 2

edit: what is the package size of the resistors needed for this mod? 8050?

I didn’t see any mention of how the light was taken apart to make these mods. Care to enlighten us?

Do it.

I used fasttech 0805 resistors… only used 2 for each bank… and it’s already good enough for me :slight_smile:
come on Pulsar go e-mail them again… this time I’ll buy like 5 of them hehe
I’m pretty sure Supfire wants to clear up the inventory… so go ahead contact them :smiley:

the pics is on this first post

Daylighter, there’s a whole lot more to it than that! The driver is epoxied into the pill area of the head. The reflector assembly, with emitter tray bolted to it, is glued into the head from the top end. The tail cap is glued on like they didn’t want Superman to get it off! Ask me how I know!

The one I did ended up managing just over 4000 lumens at start-up, I think it was around 3800+ after 30 seconds. Not my light so I’m not sure of the numbers. But it was definitely not easy to do!