I didn’t have the right values in the 0805 size needed. I have a lot in the 1206 size. So i just decided to bridge. I pm’ed Werner about this, and he is not quite sure what is going on (but very helpful none the less). Didn’t measure amp draw yet. Lux has doubled though! Hopefuliy Comfy will shed some insight on this.
I got the XM-L2 version of the M6, so left the stock emitters, stock MCPCB for now but want to sub them out for copper, like you did. Thinking of either leav'n the resistors as-is or adding one more, but that may get a little crazy, but fun 
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Scot: See post #115 with updates for lumens and throw
Can the micro controller be replaced with a re-programmed micro controller from a normal 8x7135 driver?
I mean.. unsolder the original controller, and solder a micro controller (atiny)?
Not on the same existing pads, the pin assignments are totally different. But, the attiny13's PWM output can be stuck onto the pad the original MCU used as the PWM output. Werner's done it on the M6 driver, he'll have all the details on what goes where.
interesting..maybe just reinstalling a flashed Atiny13a on this board would be nice...
pity about the layout.. maybe some short wires would work?
what micro controller is used? anybody knows?
maybe people can write a file for this, and we can reprogram the original one??
Thanks comfychair!
It's likely the original MCU is something used only on the M6, wouldn't be worth it to invest the research into figuring it out just for one specific model of flashlight. Use a regular Nanjg driver as it has all the stuff needed to power the attiny13, then connect it to power, ground, & the PWM input on the original driver.
These are not M6 drivers, as I don't have one, but hopefully it'll make a little sense...
hi Comfychair,thanks for the info.
I will look into it a bit more..!
My resistor mod went fine, but the XM-L2s on Noctigons left a big “harvest moon” sized ring. I couldn’t stand it so I replaced the original aluminum MCPCB and the nice beam profile returned. Then an emitter went out. I removed the MCPCB to reflow a new LED, and found that none of the emitters worked.
I removed all of the LEDs with hot air and tested the contacts with my DMM. None of the positive pads had any connectivity. The neg. pads were ok, but nothing with the pos. I don’t know how this happened, perhaps heat from the soldering?
What to do? The reflector wouldn’t sit low enough on the Noctigons because it would rest on top of the wires.
What the hell. Do or die. I ground down the reflector base so it would sit as flat as it would on the aluminum MCPCB.
I used really low profile centering wings and 20mm Noctigons which were perfectly centered by tightening down the reflector and leaving for two days for the thermal adhesive cured.
It’s a lot better now, but there is still a faint ring. The reflector is sitting on the Noctigons as flat as it was on the original board so I don’t know what causes the ring. The only thing I can think of is that XM-L2 is designed slightly differently and won’t focus the same as XM-L in this reflector.
These (http://www.fasttech.com/products/1182004) are thinner than those ones you used, I think 0.020" vs. 0.030". Don't know if that would be enough to fix it, but it's at least something.
I used the really thin ones. When I feel like going at it again I’ll try some of those clear flexible adhesive discs, or paper.
Before I soldered the wires I applied Fujik around the edges of the Noctigons with a bit of Arctic Silver in the center. I got them perfectly centered and tightened the reflector so they could cure for two days. That will make things so much easier not having to keep centering the emitters.
I’ll let you know how it goes, but I have to step back from this light for a couple days.
Why do you think I lost the positive traces on the original MCPCB ?
The semi-translucent insulators are thicker than the opaque ones, yours look to be the thicker ones.
I have a bunch of these (http://intl-outdoor.com/cree-xml-led-reflector-positioning-gasket-10-pcs-p-457.html) and they measure 0.019" thick. They're much thinner than the ones that are included with empty P60s & Convoy hosts.
Comfychair. The first set of insulators I used were the same ones you linked from FT.
I rummaged around, and found exactly three of those white IOS insulators.
They did the trick. The beam profile is now perfect. I was about to give up on this light. I love it.
The heat coming out the front is incredible.
Nice recovery Ouchyfoot. Its amazing how some reflectors are so sensitive to led height where others it doesnt seem to matter. Frustrating to say the least.