Surefire smurfire ultrafire UrAnusfire its all the same.
Perhaps we should persuade the next chinese entrepreneur who shows up on BLF to call his light A**OnFire, we could tell him its a lucky term in english 
I got a UranusFire X9 on the way right now to add to the collection. I plan on buying one of smaller lights so the next time I have to have a colonoscopy, I’ll bring it along to show it to the doctor and tell him he can borrow it if he needs more light to see up there.
Don’t forget to replace the LED with a high CRI version, you want to make sure he sees things clearly and makes no mistakes J)
This is the whole point. Surefire lights do meet mission critical requirements. Mil-Spec inside and out. If your life depended on it, you buy what works (if you can afford it). A 1300 lumen, 8 blinky mode light sometimes just won’t do. Throw in that the US government has not granted a contract to a Chinese light manufacturer in the 13 years of the Middle Eastern conflict. Those government contracts give you 200,000 active users each year.
Think Propper (the brand) BDU vs Northface fleece. Danner desert boots vs. Nike running shoes. Staying low while under fire vs. shopping at the Gap.
If that makes sense to you, then you understand why some people love Surefire.
Helps to differentiate the browns and reds.
Considering we have a few members with surefire lights who have had failures it appears they don’t sell defect free lights.
UranusFire
not trying to go off topic too much lol but I do have some real life experience in this area and when it comes to HDMI/RCA/ wiring in general, you do get what you pay for unless your overpaying for cheap stuff. You have to watch the market even big box stores will sell cheap stuff claiming it's good when it's not. On the same toKen the good stuff can be had for cheap if you know where to look. Good wires will be gold or copper plated leads with GOOD insulation, and the type of metal also comes into play, cheap metal will pit and corrode easily when heat is applied. Cheap insulation seems like has a lower melting point and if you try to pull more power through them than they can handle the insulation will get hard and brittle, chip and crack off, and eventually could cause a fire whereas good wiring will last well over 50 years in the same scenario. In a perfect world, no never mind it's not just accept that things will get overloaded eventually somehow some way... I'm not trying to give any specifics but I have done a little bit of tinkering wiring up car stereos, installing stand alone engine management systems, fixing electrical issues that would have cost my friends and family thousands for a 'real' mechanic to fix, and I do a lot of troubleshooting at work with everything from 12v-110v-3phase 208/220 and that's just my 2 pennies.
my iPhone and I prefer Tim Hortons lol
I have 3 Surefire lights; 6P, 2 G2 Nitrolon. They were all purchased in the mid 2000s (actually found 1 email receipt dated May 31, 2005 for the black Nitrolon). They are located around the house and are used in case of emergencies or for any utility flashlight use. Batteries last forever, as they are rarely used. All but one of the G2s were recently upgraded with a Malkoff M61LL.
They do remain relevant to the tactical community (military, LE), and obviously not so much with budget collectors. I still keep up with their models, and have looked at their Fury line on many occasions, which lead me to Elzetta, and ultimately I'm close to getting the Elzetta. I do like my Surefires and hope they do continue to try and keep up with the latest technology.
One of the areas where they could truly gain market share is WML (weapon mounted lights) - handguns and longguns. I have seen one modder comment on a Surefire WML (handgun) mod that he said he did as a one time deal for a friend. I would like to see gains and more innovation in this area.
I have several modded Surefire’s. My favorite is the 961/962 rifle light!(951/952’s too) I have one on my AR10 pushing 1580lms at turn on and 1400lms at 5 minutes (my own designed D36 drop in) single mode. My favorite handgun flashlight is a bored out Z2 (4 tours in the sand box)with a (Special made) PFlexPRO drop in with 1300+ lumens, in a quick draw polymer Surefire holster. Never seen or heard of a Z41 switch fail ever. They have 961’s on Evil Bay with A.R.M.s quick throw mount for $59.00 right now. You CAN find budget deals IF you look for them? I have tried several of the so called china weapon lights, they never lasted more than 5 to 10 rounds thru my Model 11 Remington (My test base).
Count me in that list. But they will ship out parts to you no questions asked at no additional cost.
Now, is that worth the premium price? That is the question.
The opportunity came along quicker then i expected:
I admit that I am cheap. Even if Surefire is the best light on the planet, since I am not LEO or Firefighter or S&R I would not even consider their price. The budget lights I have are everything I need and I don’t think I ever paid over $45 for a light except for the Surefire lights I bought my Son, SIL, and Daughter years ago when they were the brightest I knew of.
Even the new Ti3 is too expensive for me, but I bit the bullet and ordered one.
I have never had alight fail, but if one did it would not be a catastrophe.
Jerry
I’m not sure if you’re being sarcastic, but the light bulb is the most important component of a light and it’s with the bulb where light technology advancement is concentrated. It’s like the CPU for computers, it’s the heart and everything is based on it. Without the bulbs from the likes of Cree and Nichia, I doubt the Chinese flashlights would be that desirable.
264…. Not sure if your still lookin for a E2L AA but there is one that’s on CPF Marketplace for just under 100 bucks. It looks like it’s in good condition. Just thought I’d give you a heads up….
Just so you know it’s the older 3/80 lumen version not the updated one.
Thats a great price. Thanks for the heads up. But for now I am just going to stick with my Chinese brand flashlights.
No problem man…it actually just sold anyway 