Did everyone forget it’s a coach gun… anyone??? 
Dont wanna blow the head of the light off… I have tore it up enough… LOL
Maybe there’s a market for BTU headlight adapters. Ships with a complimentary neck brace.
Well, duhhh! Duct tape!
Are you using 2 x 16340s with your P2X Fury? (not that I advise you to pls)
I doubt I would own any of their normal lights but I do want an x300.
I don’t own any Surefires, but… meh. I’ve found that, with pretty much any type of product, the really high-end stuff just isn’t worth it except in very specific niche circumstances. And maybe I’ve just been unlucky, but all too often when one of my purchases fails, it’s usually an item where I opted for a more expensive flavor instead of a cheap one.
I suspect this may not be a coincidence though. Lower price usually means simpler designs… and simpler designs tend to be more robust. I mean, for example, consider the cheapest and most basic flashlight UI, the twisty — it lasts practically forever.
Or, more related to my field, I used to test and support high-end rack-mount servers… and the most expensive ones always failed the most frequently and severely. It’s because they had so much extra stuff inside, more complicated interfaces, and more parts in general. I mean, when a computer has 5000+ pins worth of connectors to allow configuring and swapping cells, it’s far too easy to bend a pin… and the software on it is necessarily a lot more complex than on smaller, cheaper, simpler models. Most people would be better off with 8 cheap 2U servers than with 1 expensive 16U server, because they’d end up with far more robust systems for a fraction of the price with roughly the same total computing power.
Anyway, I’ve heard claims about Surefires being solid and reliable, working every time and never failing… but I could say the same about almost every torch I’ve ever had. As long as I avoid products which are obviously trash, things generally perform rather well. And I’m far happier with my dozen or so “budget” lights than I would be with the one or two low-spec Surefires I could have bought for the same total amount of money. I mean, for example, is a SureFire R1 Lawman ($320) really worth 16X as much as a $20 Convoy M1?
To put it another way, I could get a custom-made TN31mb super thrower for that much money ($295 now)… and last I heard (2.5 months ago), it’s currently the most intense longest-throwing reflector-based LED torch in the world. And which would you rather have — an average-spec SureFire, or a world-record-holding saab blaster?
No I am just using up some Cr123s that I had around the house. I looked around and it looks like a lot of others do use 16340 though. Also seems like a popular choice is to use a 17670, those seem to work the best and you are not putting to much voltage out. That will probably be the way I will go.
@Flashlightman, they are using LiFePo4 16340s. They have a much lower voltage.
@toykeeper, Surefires twist tailcap has less that can go wrong with it then a clicky switch, the G2, 6p and C2 type lights wrote the book on simple. There bombproof and have a lifetime warranty. That’s why there worth it
I know CH will be the one to have one…. He gets all my money of late…. LOL
Yeah I saw those also. Wasn’t sure as to which ones to get. What would you recommend? I read through the whole Fury thread over at the “other” place and it looks like there are some that use the regular 16340s also. Looks like people think it has a buck driver so voltage shouldn’t be an issue either way. The problem with the 17670 is that it drops out of regulation a lot faster, would that happen with the 16340s also? CR123s last a long time, but I would rather have a rechargeable option if output wasn’t lost.
With LiFePo4 16340s it should be just as bright, but the runtime would be shorter. This a pretty good kit.
do any surefires tailstand? I looked through their website and it looks like most have the tailcap with protruding rubber boot
tailstanding is a must for me 
drill and tap the bottom rib for a picatinny rail.
the rings would have to be custom, at >2” body diameter
I think a BTU would tame muzzle rise nicely
Not without an aftermarket part like a Delrin shroud. I’ve seen em at Oveready and lighthound in the past
Also you cannot deny that Chinese does make some really good lights as well, Fenix, Jetbeam, Olight… Just to name a few, while some of them being cheaper than surefire.
In my opinion, surefire are exspencive, old tech that is at least one or two generations behind. I have an Orginial 6p and 6z. The only thing I use them for now is a photo prop when shooting higher end knives, ink pens, and money clips. They fit the profile for the products I am currently shooting.
Do my other lights out perform them? Yes they do. Out last them? Time will tell.
I thought somebody there even tried used 2 x IMR16340 in the P2X. Won’t it go “POOF”?