Surefires are okay… ish. They’re fairly reliable and look nice, but I’m not about to buy a single one for those two things when the insides are nothing but overpriced, outdated and underperforming American garbage.
The best thing you can do is as KawiBoy did and mod the hell out of any you got with diodes and drivers that are actually worth their price.
I’m not talking about a “clicky tailcap”, mine don’t have them anyway. The main problem was mostly modules.
At the time the incandescent bulbs didn’t hold up at all and rechargeable batteries were not recommended. I’ve since replaced them with LEDs that work a little better, but, they aren’t made by surefire anymore, and at least now I can use rechargeables in them.
Only one
Does that “friend” still have 2 more to get rid of? 
Yes, I was just saying the only problem I ever had was with one clicky tailcap. Yes, I always kept several spare bulbs for my incandescent M3 and M6 models. I had some other ones like the 6P but I preferred their highest output lights and never really had any problem with the modules either. Sure a few burned out, but not anymore than to be expected.
Years ago when I was using mostly flashlights with P60/D26 drop-ins I was very tempted by the C2 centurion and Z2 combatlight but never took the plunge because of the price and the 2x CR123 battery tube that needed to be bored to accept 1x 18650.
I only bought pale copies : Xeno G5, Solarforce L2P & L2T.
no more, the other 2 was sold within 2 minutes after posted in a flashaholics group… :innocent:
Yes, that does not surprise me one bit. Thank you!
The cat is out of the hat.
My lights coming to this site in pics tomorrow, at this time more or less.
Please, guide me as to how to post pics in this site.
I’m 69 years young, and the computer was non existing in my time.
Ah, and don’t hold your expectations too high.
I have less than 100 Surefires. I’m almost sure.
I can vouch for more than 50 different models. Plus I have some duplicates.
I hope is enough.
Thank you for your help.
Cheers.
Look at them under a spectrometer and you will revise that opinion. CRI is a very imperfect measure of spectrum quality.
As I said, I kept them only as a reference, e.g. when performing prism rainbow experiments for my daughter.
Well that’s exactly my point, CRI is an imperfect measurement and tell only a small part of the story about a low CCT light like incandescents.
5000K Optisolis
A spectrometer only shows whether the colors are there at all, not whether they are properly represented vs sunlight or some other standard.
It’s not only CRI that matters, but also dynamic range.
Signal to noise ratio.
Capture ratio.
And Damping factor most important.
I’m looking for a mint L1 Lumamax
You can use the money to put into your grandaughter’s 529 college fund!
Obviously, nobody has any interest in seeing my Surefire collection.
Which is all good.
I’ve been able of not only building a display for SF,
but also a Maglite display.
I’m working on a display of Chinese junk too.
Don’t tell me how to post pictures, please.
I may finish the junk by the end of the year.
My mission is accomplished.
Cheers.
P.S. My granddaughter is coming next week.
She can post pics all over the ’net. At 8yrs old.
Maybe she’ll help grandpa.