Switch bypass on convoy S2?

Has anyone found the need to do a switch bypass on an S2 build when using a Direct Drive driver (RMM’s 17DD + 7135)? I’ll be driving three Nichia 219C LEDs.

Or, does it seem the S2 switch and PCB traces can handle currents from direct drive drivers with high drain batteries?

I have done a spring bypass on the switch end of the S2 before, but I have never tried a switch / PCB bypass before on the S2.

I have watched the great switch bypass videos in the BLF X6 threads, but the convoy S2 switch seems to have no room at all to perform a switch bypass using the approach shown in the X6 switch bypass videos.

I’m guessing the current when direct driving triple nichias with high drain cells may reach in excess of 6 amps. This current level has been reported to burn out switch traces on X6 switch PCBs. Has anyone found whether the S2 switch PCB traces needs to be bypassed when drawing this much current? If so, what approach was used to do the S2 switch bypass with no apparent room (example - had to remove switch)

My S2 switch looks like this and there is enough room for a direct bypass, probably not absolutely necessary but highly advised, triple 219C with a decent high drain cell means 12-15A draw! And it will get burning hot in seconds.

My s2 switch is similar, but there’s a plastic centering ring that seems to take up all the blank pcb space. I may try it anyway by drilling through the pcb and see whether I can get both the wire and centering ring to coexist upon reassembly.

I melted my blf a6 switch so I’m relying on the anodized threads to turn it on and off for now. Isn’t the s2 the same size pcb on the switch end that the blf a6 would be? 17mm? I’m having trouble trying to find a replacement and once I find out the size will any reverse clicky handle the amps ~5.6A?

How did you melt it?

Tried to do a through-pcb spring bypass like I saw DBCustom do and the terminal on the clicky must have gotten too hot. Always an closed contact now. But I want to replace it! Any help?

So, yes do at least a spring bypass. Then an Omten switch.

I soldered the negative and positive together and completely took the switch off. If I get a new board too would that be 17mm?

Board thread


Why not get a set of PilotDogs. From OshPark you get 3 board for a couple of bux. You can build them lighted or un-lighted.

Alright man I’m gonna try and figure that out. I’m a newb with forums. Omten switch and it looks like I have some searching to do for the pilot dogs. Hopefully you’ll be around when I get confused and have a question.

Recently, after applying a Spring Bypass w/ solder wick, I melted a ‘standard’ Omten Momentary-ON switch in my EDC 2.8A S5 Clone I made. That was ~half its rated current capacity! The plastic bits melted, so it won’t click at all any more, and connectivity (tested with a meter) is spotty.

Not a lot of current, so I’m assuming I got the assembly too hot while attaching the solder braid. (???)

While it worked (months), it got quite hot, regularly; so it seems the overall carrying capacity should hold up for you. Just be quick and careful with your bypass operation! (From now on, I’ll remove the switch before doing any interesting soldering back there!!)

If it were me, and I wanted uncompromising If, I’d find a way to cobble up one of the old-fashioned ‘push-momentary/screw-on’ tailcaps… It’s hinky, but it will flow all the current an old high-intensity incan bulb can take. And (best of all, for me) it’s dead silent in operation.

I’ve had those little Omten’s up over 15amps in one light, and I haven’t had one die of high current in any light. They die very easily from soldering heat though, you can’t leave the iron on them for very long at all.