Any chance you could pop open the other two switches for an inside by inside comparison of the parts?
the small Omten looks very much like the large one, everything a bit smaller. And an inside view of the ebay-switch is actually in your switch-mod thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/32257 Compared to the Omten, the leads are much thicker metal, and there are raised contact thingies, all in all it is build thicker and better than the Omten. I only wished it came as a reverse clicky as well.
I think someone said here, that you can get a switch to act like a reverse clicky, by lowering the time it takes for the memory to reset it self in the on time firmwares, by lowering the value or altering the components to make the time super fast.
I think it was Tom E, wight & CK who discussed it in one of the driver or firmware threads, sounded like a possible solution.
I have been planning to play with that if i ever get to flashing my own firmwares that is 
Thanks Djozz, that pic is what reminded me to ask. Knowing what’s inside is half the battle when trying to figure out which switch to get for a mod.
Lately with all the switch mods with spring bypasses, different springs, for eg the standard springs replaced with the likes of djozz springs and my need for non standard sized boards l purchased a couple of different sized switches from EDC with the idea of making my own switch assemblies. The switches being reviewed are,
http://www.edc-light.com/5-pack-eoslamp-12x8mm-switch-cnq1854_p0977.html
and
http://www.edc-light.com/5-pieces-of-10a-1318-big-current-flashlght-switch-cnq2227_p1025.html
Firstly a couple of pictures of the switches.
The smaller of the two is a reverse clicky.
The larger one took me by surprise as its a forward clicky of which I could not see advertised on the webpage and assumed it would be a reverse clicky. The solder tabs are very brittle as I broke one side of when straightening it out to solder a wire to for testing. The part you press on the switch to turn it on or off is typical of a forward clicky in that it is very tall
A comparison of the two switches size wise.
The 1318 next to the KAN 28 switch that is a very popular switch. The difference in height is evident here.
And a shot from the top.
The test set up.
Testing was carried out using an MTG-2 led over a period of 3 hours. For the majority of the time the switches were fed 10 amps at around 8 volts and occasionally switched on and off. My DMM only reads to .01 volt minimum.
The difference in voltage from one side of the larger switch to the other was .01 volt at both 5 and 10 amps.
The smaller switch had a voltage variation of between .06 and .08 volts at 10 amps and .04 volts at 5 amps.
Neither switch over heated and there was no perceptible difference in performance or operation of the switches from the start to finish of testing.
Thanks also to djozz for allowing me to post this here.
Thanks for the extra data, I love data! :love:
Is 0.01V the lowest that your DMM can read or does it have an extra digit?
The small white switch looks like it performs the same as the small Omten from the OP, a good sign! The big black one looks like the '6A Ebay switch' from the OP, but the voltage that you measure at 10A is even a bit lower. Does this switch have any markings?
FWIW, I have a mini Omten in an Eagle Eye X6 (stock switch) that is carrying over 17A. I put an Luminus SBT-70 in the X6, it pulls 17.51A at the tail from an LG HE-2 freshly charged. I haven’t run it for great lengths of time, even though I have the huge copper heat sink designed for the Carclo Quad in this light.
To the best of my recollection, this is the highest amperage I’ve seen in my X6 series of 10 lights. I do have the switch pcb bypassed with a 20ga wire from the top of the spring directly to the switch. So far so good on the switch.
Thanks for testing some more switches MRsDNF 
The small white one is very similar (identical?) to the switch used in the Zeusray.
Looks are deceiving, it appears: the switch in the UF-1504 host looks identical to one of the large Omten's but several folks have reported that it is crap and should be replaced immediately. Same story for the Supfire F3: looks like the small Omten, but has way more resistance.
And you read it right here, on BLF! So, to stay in the know on which way to go simply tune in to DJOZZ DEBUNKS every Saturday morning at 8 AM CST.
Thanks djozz, excellent info.
This is why it always pays to get the tried and true name brand, even in comparatively cheap small switches. Omten or bust!
When i have described them I have never called the 1504 omten clone switch identical to the omten, i say it is looks like one of the big omten switches BUT without any omten markings at all on top, so only identical in shape to the similar omten. And the small white switch looks even more similar than that to the Zeusray switch because it doesn’t have any logos at all.
Just an update on post 44 to add the UF-1504 switch and the KAN 28. The UF-1504 looks similar to the KAN28 but is slightly different dimensionally and in testing.
The Kan 28 is in the center black switch in all the pictures. The led was also changed today to my XHP70 on a stick for testing as I forgot to turn on the fan on the cooler the MTG-2 is mounted to and yes it looks like this after running at 10 amps without adequate cooling.
The test setup for today. My DMM does go to three decimal points but only at low voltages. All the voltages given were measured to two decimal places. No extended run times were carried out due to lack of cooling on the XHP70 on a stick. The fan was running under the led but did not cool it adequately for longer run times. The testing was run for the period of time up to when smoke was billowing from the led and then allowed to cool before testing resumed. These are seriously tough leds.
The two switches tested yesterday gave the same results today.
Firstly the KAN 28 copy from the UF-1504. At 5 amps the voltage drop across the switch was .04 volts and at 10 amps it varied slightly from .04 to .05 volts. The switches were turned on and of a few times during testing to check for consistency. The longer this switch was ran the more it appeared to vary.
The Kan 28 at 5 amps was .01 volts and at 10 amps was consistent at.03 voltage drop.
Finally some pictures of the switches. The top.
Side.
An the bottom.
I have tried to be as accurate as possible with all the measurements with what I have to get consistent results. As only one each of the switches was tested it is possible that other switches will give different results.
If I was to draw any conclusion from this testing it would be that the large EDC switch clearly had less resistance of all the switches tested here. Its a shame I'm not a forward clicky fan.
Thanks very interesting
Good to see the test of the clone 1504 switch confirming what many of us suspected. And good pictures of it too, i trashed mine i think…… i couldn’t find it anyway.
I wonder if the Kang is a clone of the similar omten or if it is the other way around, anyway it looks to be a good option in that size.
The only switch test i am missing here now, is the Judco 10A i suspect it could beat all of them because it has copper connector plates. And it is very small when modded, so it could hopefully be fitted in more lights than the big “ebay 6A” one.
Too bad it won’t fit in a Solitaire.
I think I have a Judco somewhere. The XHP70 died testing a Tofty. There was significant resistance in the Tofty but I did not finish testing. I pulled it apart to clean the contacts but did not get a chance to test again. I'll have to set up another MTG-2 when I get the motivation to get steam coming from my breath again. Its that cold in the shed. I must be getting old.
Great work, but you are killing all your good leds over this, Steve! Perhaps you can find a 1 Ohm 100W power resistor sonewhere to replace the led? (like this one: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/1-Ohm-1R-100W-Watt-Power-Metal-Shell-Case-Wirewound-Resistor-/370550984569?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56468f4f79 , or even better two of these in parallel: http://www.ebay.nl/itm/1PCS-High-Power-2-0-Ohm-2R-100W-Watt-Aluminum-Shell-Case-Wirewound-Resistor-5-/141509820268?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f2a47f6c )
Would you believe it if I said I have two of the first linked resistors above. I'll have to put them on a heat sink. I did look at your picture to try and work out how to wire them up but I missed the fact that half the picture was of my screen when I looked. I cant tell you how I feel now. 
I just got a few of these KANG-28 switches from fasttech i ordered them because i believed them to be omten.
At least they look descent from MRsDNF’s test, but according to fasttechs pictures they should be omten’s, and we also have had reports about IOS’s omtens in this form factor are clones without any markings on them.
So for now i have no idea where we can get genuine omtens in this size any more………and i find that slightly worrying :~
Fasttech is Omten PBS 101 (although it looks same it is not kan 28):
What I did noticed about that Omten PBS 101 switches is that they have different button top markings like A, B, W
Different versions of Omten PBS 101
Different versions of Kan-28 Switch:
Omten PBS-101 or KAN-28? They look same... So who was first? Chicken or egg?
Is Omten PBS-101 copy of KAN or KAN-28 copied Omten? Maybe it is all produced at same company?
Anyway I'll try my luck with FT this time. If they work in Cajampa DD 1504 mode it is probably good.
There are copys of these switches getting around. The ones I know of have no markings and I have no idea what the quality is like. It wouldn't surprise me if the branded ones were copied sometime if not now as well.