I wanted to replace my car boot T10 socket light bulb with an LED so that the boot will be lit up much brighter. Currently the T10 incandescent bulb gives out like 10-20 lumens and is absolutely useless for it;s purpose given that the black boot mat absorbs almost all of the light it produces.
Please suggest me a nice LED replacement. Warm or Neutral white tint is preferred. Need 100 lumen or more. Must be down firing or side+down firing since bulb socket is on boot ceiling so side firing alone is not preferred.
Looks good, what worries me is the heat sinking, but I guess I wouldn’t use the boot light more than 2 minutes anyway.
I do have soldering skills but I don’t want such a light. It’s a shame they waste a lot of power as heat, could have reduced it if they used at least 3x of them LEDs in series.
Thanks for the heads up, found this crazy fake cree lamp
I have been running these for several years in my cars as city lights (inside the headlight reflector) No issues with heat.
If you car does not need canbus, just take off the resistor across the power input. The bulbs are not over driven and need no thermal path.
The pic above is just a T10 stuffed inside a BA9S base.
As far as other options, only you know how much room you have to work with and how bright you want the boot.
There are also other panel lights with multiple LED array or COB that also come with various adapters. Searching festoon, some will come up.
This one does not have down firing LEDs so it’s not good enough for me. The first one you suggested looked more appropriate for my application.
My car does not need canbus. Could you kindly elaborate why to remove those resistors? do they serve any other purpose than current limiting?
Even if the bulbs are not over driven don’t they still need a thermal path since they are dissipating some heat? I have a 6x 5630 USB stub light with almost same surface area that gets super hot within 30 seconds when at full brightness, given this light has 10 of them shouldn’t they get hotter than that?
I bought a couple of the rectangular conversion units shown by vwpieces and used them in my overhead light and as a bulb replacement for the high positioned stop lamp on a Scion XB. They are plenty bright and if you peel away the double sided tape on the back of the square you will find a couple of tiny (probably 1/10W) resistors. They can’t possibly waste that much energy or the resistors would flame up in use. They are similar to the resistors you see next to the LEDs on a SMD strip.
They’re tiny because those LED beads are lined up in series so the current limiting resistor needs to dissipate only less. Still they’re lined up in a series parallel array so a single resistor is not really an ideal setup.
It will die after 1-6 month!
The most tenacious what I find was this
But after some month some of the lines of leds will die. But it will work with leftover LEDs.
Why? Because of hot. I mean it is not with aluminum pcb, it is with glass textolite what can not let heat away from the leds. And it is with ordinary smd resistors. When you car is muffledб it is about 12v, when engine is work - it is about 14v. Current with 12 and 14v is different.
Also there is really cheap leds with tiny crystal and they work to the limit (works with maximum current)
I upgraded C5W by aluminium radiator 14x14x6mm, but it is also with glass textolite with poor thermal conductivity.
Now I finalized drawing the pcbs for C5W (C10W) and finally (15-20 hours) pcbs for W5W (T10) LED lamps with TRI-R 3030 smd LEDs SunLike and NSi CCR - Constant Current Regulator & LED Driver (I call it smart resistor)
How much time need to draw pcb board?
If someone interesting, C5W will cost about 5$
W5W (T10) will cost 5-10$ (depends from led quantity)
1pcs 3030 SunLike led cost 0.5$ in my web-site
but I don’t want such a light. It’s a shame they waste a lot of power as heat, could have reduced it if they used at least 3x of them LEDs in series.
