T20 IR 950 osram projects.

So to start off with, Hi.

I’m new to this site and came across it in search of a way to build up or modify a t20 flashlight into a IR 950 light on a budget. after reading countless posts about these lights on different websites and this one i figured i should make an account and just ask.

so far iv gathered that not all t20’s are the same and some newer ones have plastic lens and none brass drivers.

i sourced a site, http://wallbuys.com/Product/Uniquefire-UF-T20-T6-LED-1200-Lumens-Zoomable-Flashlight-18650-CR123A—5550
got a code LEDWALLBUYS14

found some LED’s http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OSRAM-Opto-Semiconductors/SFH-4725S/?qs=4zFPArRKzl5AJZSCiQli2g%3D%3D

and now am stuck on what is next? where can i find the right driver and are there any other considerable upgrades? Im in search of a decent set of batteries as well. iv mostly been buying stuff off ebay to play with but would like to make 2-10 decent IR lights for my paintball marker.

thanks!

Welcome to BLF!

As for the led, the one you linked may not be the latest and greatest anymore, but I have not followed the developements very well lately. Perhaps Mitko can chime in?

You need to solder the led on a ledboard, you can use the board that comes with the flashlight but I recommend a copper board, preferably a 20mm Sinkpad (you need to sand off the pointy edges because the flashlight has room for 19mm).

An Oslon does not fit very well on a XP-G type board (solder pads do not completely match) but if you do not use too much solder, it works.

The driver is dependent on the ledboard, a led on a copper board can handle more current, 3A is a good current so a NANJG 105C driver will do the job. On a normal board you better stick to 1.5A, perhaps a NANJG 101-AK will work.

What`s the gen/brand of your IR equipment? In most cases SFH47155 works better, but for some gen 3 scopes 940 is the better choice
I would strongly recomment SFH 4715AS as its the newest and most porewful: speaking of power it has some disatvantages - in Yukon and Pulsar based scopes the matrix is very IR sensitive :thus may cause “IR snow” when you use your new IR torch at its max , it even can trigger the scope protection, so drivers modes are a must have( at least several)

P.S


I`ve tested the new Pulsar 915 IR lazer( 300 euros without VAT) against my IR modded UF1503( optics is modded too)….and Pulsar was blown away, its nothing but a total crap especialy for the money it costs- russians didnt do great job here.

There are better lazer based lights but for the moment their price is either insane, or they are just for the millitary market like Opti IR L1Z( a local company making stuff for NATO), it costs only 80 euros, and its gorgeous but why millitary only….

Your UF-1503 is 940nm? Driver current?

Yeah cause my scope works better with 940( the older Osram emitter, havent tested the new yet) running at 1.3amps, i think its the abs max considering emitters reliablility on along term base, sometimes that torch works for 3-4 hours non stop

The best MCPCB for those that i have found are singapoore ones branded Opulent for Cree XBD, cheap chinese copper non dtp aint that good

i do have T20 850nm both SFH47155 and SFH 4715AS ( swappable pill ofc)
SFH 4715AS runs at 1.8 but it runs hot

Several months ago i modded Yokon photon 810nm Gen 2 , paired it with a UF1505/SFH47155
The collimator isnt even at its max, those trees are at 200 meters away - the result is realy good i might say

My current IR equipment is

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271974574186?\_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Both have the ir filter removed. The car dvr has a different lens as well. mind you i use my night vision for paintball. so my targets are at a max of 200 yards away. but if i use 850nm. they will see me. thats why i need 940nm+ as to stay hidden when looking for my next target.