Tactical T2000 Advanced Overview headlamp (Pic Heavy)

kept seeing this headlamp constantly on Facebook and many other places on the web and I as well as my coworkers have been in need of a decent headlamp that is bright with good battery life reasonably comfortable and so on.

Well I finally just ordered one. At a cost of only $19.99 including shipping, even if all emitters were clones I would change them out and have some fun with it.

You will see pictures below of what I have opened up thus far, really just to see the emitters. And I will be asking for opinions as to their authenticity.

It looks that the center light uses a XM-L, I have not taken it completely apart yet but the driver must be total junk. 2 fully charged Panasonic 18650 cells loaded into it and it was no brighter than my little mini Cree with the Q5.

The lights on either side of the center (main light) are 2 smaller housings. The emitter in those to me appears to be a Q5. Again I could be wrong, it may or may not be a clone. I know very little about this company. I do know that if you call them they actually answer the phone but, you get very little answers. Questions are handed off to support and they contact you. I asked them to email me and gave the nice lady a list of about 10 questions. Like on the box it clearly says "Revolutionary focus technology. I can't find anything anywhere that can be adjusted as far as beam focus. I asked about the emitters, I asked if there was a plastic liner that the straps fit on like it shows in the websites picture. The battery pack is in the back and is covered by only a thin piece of rubber, yes you read that correctly. It can be pulled open very easily. That part does rest against the back of your head which can hep keep that from happening but, this causes another problem. You have 2 18650 cells mashed into the back of your head while you are wearing it..

It is suppose to charge the Ultrafire 4000mAh cells that come with it without removing them. It comes with an AC wall adapter as well as a DC car charger. Pop open a little rubber tab on the bottom of the battery pack and plug it in for charging. I will stick with my Xtar. As far as I know Ultrafire has never manufactured a 4000mAh cell so I know for sure there are fakes somewhere in this mix.

Before I go any deeper if any of you would like to see the website, Tactile T2000 Website.

It says it is crafted from high strength aluminum, as well as a fully waterproof housing. The center light and side lights do have aluminum pills, very small one's. The bottom and top ring on the center light and the top ring on the 2 side lights are aluminum, as far as I can tell all the rest is plastic. Pretty cheap plastic at that.

The modes seem to work perfectly, one click turns on the center light, a second click turns on the 2 side lights and turns off the center light, a third click turns on all 3 lights and a 4th click turns on strobe for all 3.

I am going to load some pictures now and let those of you with more experience judge the emitters validity. The Ultrafire batteries that cam with it are fully charged in my Xtar and they have me a little concerned. One needed 663mAh to top off and the other needed 656mAh, that's not my concern. MY concern I just noticed that the cell on the left shows full at 4.2V and the cell on the right shows full at 4.1 I have had this charger for almost 2 months now and never had that happen. I would welcome any possible reasons that could cause that.

I unplugged the charger and swapped the batteries left to right and right to left and plugged it back in. That battery ready the same 4.1 but is charging further, the other shows full.

This is the emitter from the center light, it has the design of a Cree. I will leave that to those far more experienced than I am. I am learning to spot the fakes and getting better all the time but I do still miss some of the small details.

This is one of the side emitters, it looks to me like a Q5 and as far as I can tell is a Cree. But again I still lack experience in many of the details. The smaller emitters have Cree at the top of the star and the center emitter does not but we all know that means nothing.

This is one of the smaller emitters optics disassembled it is plastic and why it is frosted in the center is beyond me. If anyone thinks it will help light output I can easily drill that center out, at least far enough to clear it up a little.

And this is the headlamp fully assembled.

The cell that did not fully charge even though the charger showed it full is now reading 4.2V and flashing full.

I will take it outside shortly and see how it looks in the dark. Quick question first please.

How do I check the current with a battery pack like this. I have an idea but I want to know for sure. The fact that both cells face the same direction in the battery pack thew me off a little. I have not taken it fully apart yet but I am thinking one cell is for the center emitter and the other is for the 2 small emitters so direction makes no difference.

One thing I can tell you for a fact is that the claim of 5000 lumens is nowhere close to true. On high with all 3 emitters maybe 600 lumens. I don't have a way to check. I do have a very accurate app on my mobile phone but I am pretty sure there is no way I can accurately read 3 emitters, and I know I would screw up the calculations.

I will try and post some pictures from outside, and compare it to maybe my sk98. All of my lights above about 200 lumens are throwers so that is the only one to even get close to what this is claimed to do.

The batteries are for sure not in series as a buck driver would be more complex and expensive

If you insert one battery measure between the battery and light

Better get a Skilhunt H03F with coupon for 41$

Really nice little light in NW I changed the glas for a AR one, a little more lumens and tint shift is not noticeable


I love that light. How or where do I get the coupon, I would pay that just for the light. Being able to use it for a headlamp is just a bonus.

Okay I am looking at the battery pack now, when you say between the battery and the light, negative or positive on the battery and what I am looking for is where at the light.

Also I am about to post some light shots, it actually is decent out in the dark but still nowhere near claimed lumens. Some of the pictures my sk68 looks as good, the last one my sk98 on med. 60% against the T2000 at the highest setting lol, well you will see. I was going to set the 98 on high but that was just unfair lol.

With the right mods and a better place for the battery pack and way less plastic that T2000 could scream, but as is it needs to be priced about where the clones are even if the emitters are Cree. Just bad engineering. I will beef it up but not without new pills and heat sink options. Be fun to play around with..

This headlamp is a Boruit brand headlamp or a knockoff of one. Ebay is pretty saturated with them.

The reason you have seen it repeatedly advertised on facebook and other sites is because you looked at it on an ecommerce site at some time.

This method of advertising is called Retargeting.
Retargeting, also known as remarketing, is a form of online advertising. that can help you keep your brand in front of bounced traffic after they. leave your website. For most websites, only 2% of web traffic converts. on the first visit.

It’s not because they are blanket advertising it to everyone. You viewed it before so they keep showing it to you across available platforms.

If you want to see an example in action, go look up the price and details of something you dont normally look at. Let’s say a new lawnmower. Click on one on an ecommerce site.

Then you will begin to see the same lawnmower advertised to you on facebook and elsewhere.

Also, these headlamps are wired parallel. So you will not see a difference in brightness when using 1 cell vs 2, only different runtime. The driver is in the battery pack underneath the cell holder. Post up a pic of the board and maybe someone can tell you how to mod it for higher current.

Okay a few light shots. It is actually just at decent outside in almost total darkness but still uncomfortable, the battery pack needs to be moved and totally enclosed hard case, not one side of it just a piece of rubber. And when I say that I mean it literally as you will see below.

I took a control shot but I have a ton of pics here already. All of these were with my Samsung Galaxy S6 flash turned off and set to auto.

This is the center emitter XM-L at about 150 feet.

This shot is my sk68 same distance just a little farther left.

This shot is center emitter (XM-L) off and both side emitters on (Q5)

This shot is both the center emitter (XM-L) and the both side emitters on (Q5's)

These last shots are all at the side of my house at about 40 feet. I did this just to prove the quality of your driver, wiring, and other components matter just as much as what emitter or battery you are using.

Center emitter on headlamp on the right and my sk68 single setting on the left.

Center emitter off and both side emitters on the headlamp on the left and again my sk68 on the right.

Both center and both side emitters on the headlamp on the right and my sk68 om the right.

This one for fun. On the right the headlamp with center and both side emitters on and on the left my sk98 on medium (60%) I could have really embarrassed that headlamp. That 98 on high is mean. But this was enough.

With the right engineering, a lot less plastic and some good drivers. This T2000 headlamp could be a really good option but, for just a little more money you see the post above. You can get a much better light.

Next time you see this or any of their lights on Facebook bragging about being so bright. Look back at these pictures. They claim that headlamp has a max of 5000 lumens. My sk68 I know for a fact on It's best day is about 350 lumens. It's the Ultrafire mini 7 watt Q5 for anyone that may not have known. If that tiny thing kept pace then you know this tactical T2000 headlamp is just talk. Hate to throw off on any light but they brag it is the brightest thing around. I say they need to meet some of the guys here and ask them how to build a proper light.

Hang on... Gotta remove some screws... Okay here is the board under the cells. Had to remove 4 screws.

Those red wires are for the AC or DC charger, It was easier to just remove it to get it open.

38D4A1 for
TIR lens and reflector

Or

For H03f
0207cb

I can almost get that for about 45.00 but I am saving. Once I get enough points saved I am going to buy some that I have been wanting for awhile...

Thanks for the links, I liked those the first time I saw them.

Don’t forget to use the ‘Coupon Code’ Terry White, it helps a lot. :money_mouth_face:

The 03R with coupon is 36.11$

and the light is very flexible with modes
Instant moonlight or turbo from off

Hmmmmm...... Once the bills are paid after tomorrow, I may just go ahead and order that. I can kick in some points and probably come out to 25 or so...

You can only use coupon or points at banggood
the coupon gives you almost 18$ you can not turn in enough points for about 33% of the item value at most the same as the coupon

Good to know.. At 36.00 it's still worth maybe not waiting. I've been holding off on some things because of the big discount on the group buy for the stainless worms.... About 10 of those and that would cover most of my hardest to buy for people. And we are Prime members so no shipping. I also found 5 sk98's for 25.00. I can do simple emitter and board upgrades on those and get some fair money back. Guys at work have been paying 40.00 for them with no battery. Light only. I print out pages for the websites to get batteries and charges. I still need to spend about 600 to 700 more to set myself up for almost any repaor or mod. Machining is what I would love to make it to. I found a couple for right around 1k that will do anything I would need. lol have not told the wife about that part yet. I live in the south. Hunters will pay big bucks for quality lights. I gotva guy now that wants a small peice of the sun to mount to an AR-14 . Says he needs an hour total burn time, not all at once. An hour before battery change. I've not tried multiple emitters yet. He's willing to pay 200 without blinking as high as 400 if it takes it. lol there is plenty here to make, I just need a bit more tooling and knowledge of course. I catch on pretty quick. I'm cleaning battery corrosion out of one of his Bushnell headlamps right now. I would like to add a little current for him bit this one is 3aa's so not much I could add.

What kind of cells are you using that end in “fire”?

The light will be brighter simply with a better battery.

I just reread your OP where you are asking about what the deal is with the batteries.

They are trash.

You will not be able to accurately determine the usefulness of the light with such poor cells.

These cells have less than 1000mah capacity and are known junk.

You’re talking about how the light needs optics and driver
yet you are running it on the worst cells available.

You mean this Bushnell I'm cleaning. He put procell Duracell's in it before I picked ot up. I told him to leave it empy lol. I will check these with the meter before I put them back in. Of you want to look ot up ots a model TRKR H225L

Yeah the headlamp. I have to work all weekend but Monday night I will pit some of my Panasonic cells in and see how it does. I would still rather see an XM-L2 in that center. The others are fine as far as brightness. The plastic is well. looks almost like a haze

No, I meant the photo of the battery carrier of the headlamp that this thread is about.
It came with known junk ultrafire cells. It seems that is what you are using to power it.
You even commented on some anomaly that occurred while charging them.

You really need to use some decent cells with it. The ultrafires need to go in the trash.
They are fake, very low capacity and current capability.
Your headlamp will be brighter simply by putting a better decent cell in it, such as the panasonics you mentioned.