Here's a video showing a little about the light and some of the breakdown of it. Also a bunch of meaningless dribble that eats up your time.
So, as I said in the video, a simple mod would be an XM-L2 on a Copper star and a 3-4 amp driver. Add Copper braid to the springs and you're all set for a nice bright light.
Of course, you can do mods to the stock driver if you wish, but I will let others here chime in and tell how to do it correctly.
Here's a photo of the stock driver.
From what I understand, you can use a pencil or a resistor on top of the capacitor (highlighted in BLUE), to remove next mode memory. As far as a mod for higher amps?? I don't know. I thought you might be able to shift the Positive led wire over to the spot highlighted in YELLOW, but that might make it direct drive. Someone else needs to say what really needs to be done here.
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For my mod, I am using some of the guts out of a reflex/recoil light and turning this light into a reflex/recoil light.
I stripped out the stock XR-E and brass pin from this reflex light housing. I inserted copper rod, (has to be cut yet), in the hole where the brass rod was. I also drilled from the side, into the center and ran copper wire into that. I will solder all that together, to make a better connection of the two.
I also soldered on a thin copper plate, where the 8mm XM-L star will sit. Hey, it's not going to be much help, but every little bit should be better than nothing.
I bored out inside the head, so the reflex/recoil housing would fit in. I also removed the led shelf, so that the bottom piece of the housing will sit down inside.
It fits together, but I cannot set the reflex/recoil housing down in enough to be flush. It's because of the body getting smaller at the ID, due to all the fins.
It will leave a sizeable gap, but I can cover that with a copper or brass ring.
The 17mm NANJG will sit into the pocket of the reflex/recoil housing and the stock driver will be a contact plate, to cover everything up.
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To be continued...
Modfail - New BLF word