Test/Review: LD-1 5A PWM-less driver - led4power (Tests in aYezl Y3)

Thanks for all the testing Tom E. You are trend setting here.

Im still waiting for mine. Nothing in the maibox today either. :_(

Getting my fix here in the meantime. No need to rush the review though.

Just fyi... I wasn't sure how turbo mode works. He is saying basically it's DD - very high amps, more than the 140% increase he listed. Basically turbo takes it out of current controlled/limiting mode -- this is a very nice feature!

Also, HKJ found an issue in high mode using higher powered cells that needs a cap to be replaced, and once done, fixes the issues that HKJ was seeing. So, I'm holding off more testing til I get the cap and can mod the driver. It's a tiny 0402 -- I never worked with a cap that small, so may have a "super tech" at work do the replacement. He would have no problem doing this, so less risk than me doing it Embarassed.

This HD2010, btw, is a total PIA for this experimenting because of the poor clearance for the bigger wires, big flat reflector bottom... Also the plastic LED alignment piece they ship with HD2010's now is too small for the opening, making it almost impossible to center the LED... Ugh. The older HD2010's I have didn't have this promleb- the LED alignment pieces fit much better.

Is this driver listed as something besides LD-1 on Intl-Outdoors?
I see 18 drivers there and don’t see this one.

Would this work well in a BTU Shocker host?

Off topic:
Would a 60 Watt Weller temp controlled (700 & 800 degree F tips) soldering station work OK for reflowing LED’s?

It’s a new linear driver by Led4power that does not use pwm for dimming so it has much better efficiency at lower currents. No relation to IO.

Thanks Rufusbduck
Meant to put it in the original thread.

That where they talk about it being sold by IO.

That’s refer to XM-L2 on copper, that HKJ probably need if he damage his leds while doing testing the driver.

Updated the OP with new tests of batteries, and enabling turbo mode. Also tested the medium against a PWM based medium mode in a Nanjg driver configured at 4.2A.

LD-1 has 10mohm sense resistor in current path,even on turbo,that's 50mV extra voltage drop.Could you post a pic of your setup,especially at which place on driver you soldered negative wire?Best place is very close to sense resistor(otherwise gnd ring will cause extra voltage drop that can be higher than 50mV).

Also very nice test Nanjg vs LD-1. It's important to note that results will be even better(worse for pwm) if that nanjg had 2 extra chips,because LED efficiency is worse at 5A vs 4.2A.

Thanks for doing the LD-1 / Nanjg efficiency conparison, saves me from doing that :-). The driver does what theory promises.

Not being able to get much over 5A on Turbo using a single li-ion is consistent with my numbers, to get over 5A the voltage at the driver connections must be almost 3.8V, not many batteries can keep up 3.8 V at 5A load for long, and in a flashlight there's even some voltage loss before the driver (spring, switch).

I mostly use modes in the 1 lm to 10 lm range, sometimes 0.1 lm or up to 50 lm, and more like 100 lm to 200 lm for biking… but anything above that is pretty uncommon for me. So, more efficient low/med modes sound very interesting.

Looks like this should be able to get about 40% or 45% longer run times on low/med modes, compared to PWM. Maybe less on lights which aren’t driven as hard, and more on lights with a higher maximum.

With PWM above 10 kHz, the output looks very similar to true current control… but the runtime is still shorter. I don’t mind this very much on 1x18650 lights, but it’d be really nice to get a current-controlled driver for smaller lights like 1xAA or even 1xAAA.

I soldered the LED wires where you said to wire them in your thread OP. The neg. wire is on the large flat pin of the FET - I wouldn't try anything on my own - don't know enough Smile. Actually that is how we wire the neg. wire on the BLF DD drivers too.

Ohh - so if you wanted to lock down the driver to turbo mode, can the resistor simply be bridged, eliminating that 50 mV drop?

That's where I put the minus led wire too, on the FET.

Bridging the sense resistor removes the option of making a switch for moon2

Yes,negative led wire should go on fet,I was asking for battery negative wire,or did you do measurements with driver already mounted in pill?

Shorting sense resistor will make this driver practically single mode direct drive,but I don't see the point of this mod.

Already mounted in a big copper pill, soldered driver edge to the pill in 3 spots. Ok bout the resistor - I thought you were pointing the added V drop from it, implying it could be removed, but I think I see - it's just part of the design.

Updates just made in the OP - verification against HKJ's measurements.

Nice work Tom, however the modes get implemented LFP has come up with a really nice driver.

You can calculate how much nanjg will produce at 0.09A : (0.09/0.16)*44=24.75lm

Now you can calculate gain of LD-1 : 34/24.75~37% more brighter at 0.09A.

I updated the OP with info on using it in a Yezl Y3 (tailcap button and side e-switch).

Nice testing of the e-switch modes!, you really made a good effort of testing the driver. I'm still away for the holidays and back next tuesday, I will think of useful tests leftover to do.