just triple 219a 
it was so cheap! but I donāt have the āoriginalā 219a from is to compare
for exampleā¦look at this what do you think of price/performance looking at it through flashacholic eyes (please note that in video light world there are TOO MANY clones of a clones of this comer/sony(copy)/who knows whatā¦lightā¦ :Sp
as a flashoholic I'd say: we can do this better, mainly because we use the latest non-chinese leds that are better spec'd.
and i can tell you there are many people who pay like 250$ for this light and on top of that it works on sony camera battery pack (which by the way has 6 cells 18650 2s3p) so you must pay extra for thatā¦i guess EagleTac MX25L3C with 6 nichia 219 b11 (with difuser) will do better job for half the priceā¦
I was trying to explain tint and cri to a new member in a P.M. last night . I took out about 12 lights which I had modded and shot them onto the ceiling from about 3 feet away...generally on medium (approx 30 lumens ).
I was trying to impress on him that no light is a "pure white " and if it were so it probably wouldn't be what you wanted anyway .And that all light has a tint .
The names being highly misleading as
- Cool white sounds pretty much what people want in a light....white !!!
- Neutral almost always is followed by the word TINT ... OMG who wants a tinted light.?? I want bright and white !!! a TINT hell no...
- Warm sounds like campfire light .Something Alister Cook or Abraham Lincoln might read a book by .Or Torchlights used during the Spanish Inquisition. Plus ..everyone can see they are Orange ..Oh my !!
Looking up at the 12 lights shining on my ceiling I realized if I was to objectively rate just the tints like a noob who comes across a thread full of beam shots ..I'd rate them all..Pretty Poor .. One being a little green, another headed toward peachy,tan ,rosy,beige ,amber ,red,brown,yellow maybe ,a bit blueish?,purple...None of them looking even remotely white to me .Even if I add a few average, unmodified not good / not bad lights , I still come up with the same general feeling . they all sorta suck
Now remember these are mostly lights I've modded and I know that among these are the best of the best of the best . Tints that can't be found ,Emitters so good you would never part with them ...but you sure as hell can't see it in this cluster of beam-shots ..Not even right in front of you....not from a camera,not on the internet, and not as a noob.
Try it yourself with your best lights .....
Or look above in post 23 and ask yourself if either of the two pics of the 219 nichias would make anyone want to buy one ..I see grey and I see pink..and yet I know they are both exceptional lights . But it's hard to say I love the tint...
In real life I love that tint ...What you see is not what you get .
Explain that to a noob :P
I find the photo djozz took to be helpful. More so because I know how the Nichia 219A typically photographs compared with other lights. It easily shows what he is saying too, it does not have the same amount of red in it as most would probably expect with a NW 4500K-ish Nichia 219A.
It also seems like its a tad cooler (unless the red from the Nichia 219a is tricking me).
Its hard for me to judge if its a nice tint in real life, but it shows that its not what I were expecting, and it also seems to fit djozz description. I think most would expect this emitter to look like the Nichia 219A that many of us like, but it doesn't. This is something djozz described and was also able to document with a picture. :)
So Boaz, how did you explain tint and CRI?
Camera setting, obviously set it to daylight or some other preset you like and use that preset for your shots. Donāt use auto or custom off of a white paper, those are not comparable.
I find CRI really easy to see, just have blue, green, red objects, WOOD, more different wood, and the CRI shows very easily where it is.
Cree on wood is yellow itās like WTF is that if you have an 1A-3C, gets ok with 5A but still nowhere near Nichia 219A. Cree is usually flat and only gets better as you select warmer tint, then the CRI goes slightly up but would have to take something like 7x? To get 90CRI probably.
There are three CRI versions of NVSL219B, R70 - CRI 73, R8000 - CRI 83, R85 - CRI 92.
R8000 and R85 have same chromacity listed although R8000 is likely to be more colder tint.
R70 has more colder tint.
So if you have 219B that is colder than old 219A from a reputable source (IS probably), you are likely to have a 219B that is R70 or R8000 with CRI 73 or 83.
Plus please check the voltage rank.
KD may has L2 listed for the other 219Bs.
Would be nice to find L1 rank of R85 SW45 D220 being sold. If IS had it, now it does not even list it.
Itās the opposite actually, the higher the current through 219A the higher the CRI, not only visible but measured as well. Although it is maybe 5 CRI range of change if I remember.
If you look for output and efficiency then stick to XM-L2.
XP-G2 R3 quite close to 219A B10. R2 is about the same.
So a decent high CRI 219B will be something like XP-G2 R3 or R4 at best.
If you have a dual output light, then personally I would pair the XM-L2 3C with some warmer tint that has more red. Cree 3C is quite flat yellow and still lacks reds.
Although for the road it may not matter that much and having more output rather than CRI seems more useful.
A few people that have both high CRI 219A and 219B wrote that 219B doesnāt have pinkish tint anymore maybe thatās why it may appear cooler?
Perhaps, but the tint being pinkish is a matter of the colours relative to each other, if this led would have such a high CRI as claimed it would (even with the tint being not pinkish) still reproduce reds and yellows well, and I find those colours clearly more pale than the other 90+ CRI leds. The 96CRI Oslon is not as pink as the 219A but does reproduce reds and yellows very nice.
I have IS 219As and they are not pinkish at least the triple I made from them. They are center white and to the sides may be a little into yellow depending on how hard driven they are. Sure the output could have more green but then it is not CRI 100 āonlyā 92.
The pics here on BLF of 219A do seem pinkish, but I really wonder if it is how they look for other people in person or just because of the camera/monitor color shift when capturing and sharing a picture of the output.
^IS 92CRI 219A B10 SW45, Daylight setting on camera and looks on my poor screen basically the same as I see it on the ceiling. Carclo 10507, driven around 10.5V? triple series. 1/60, F3.4, ISO 80.
Pinkish? Not really.
Certainly not pink like pics that float around, from BLF or CPF, Carclo lens comparison, 219A:
I think people mess up the color setting on their camera. Or get some strange batch from IS.
Good ideas. My main reason for mixing an XM-L2 and an XP-G2 is that the light is going (eventually) to be a helmet light, so Iād like some throw. With the 20mm TIR optics Iāll be using, 2 XM-L2s would be great but an XM-L2 and a LED with a smaller die (but the same optic) would be a little throwier. Total output isnāt super important (itāll be over 1000lm theoretical, which is just fine for a helmet light) and CRI on its own isnāt critical either, Iām just looking for more contrast than the CW XM-Ls I have in my old helmet light. Iāll try an XM-L2 3C and an XP-G2 4B together, see how they look 
As for tint and CRI, Iāve found that the 219A lights I have are great around the house but look a little muddy in the woods, whereas the NW lights I have look a bit cool in the house but work perfectly in the woods. So I guess itās not just the mix of wavelengths the light puts out, but also what that light reflects back off that matters.
Nichia 219B chip is 1.4x1.4mm. Same as XPG2.0
so which one out of the 219A and 219B will give just a pure white tint?.
219B?.
is there a name for this actual LED for pure white nichia or is 219B ok?.
thanks.
Difficult question, I can not answer that, there's no such thing as pure white, every tint appears to have a slight colour relative to every other tint. There is however a favorite tint, and that one differs for each person.
are there any lights out there carrying this like white 219B LED in 18650?.
thanks.
No, not yet at least, it usually takes months or more than a year for new leds to reach stock lights, and only if they are significantly better than what what they are used to.
Thanks for the tests
@djozz : where do you found the Osram 96 CRI ? Is this this one : http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power-LEDs-Osram/Osram-Oslon-SSL/OSRAM-Oslon-SSL-80-neutral-weiss-CRI-95-auf-Star-LT-1956_206_207.html
if yes, is it well suited to be put in small flashlights (considering 800mA max) ? It is a bit smaller than XP-G, but not that much, how could I have missed this led :quest:
Edit : pulled the trigger on some 219B at Kaidomain, wanted to see by myself 0:)
That is the led I tested, although I bought it from rs-online and the test was done with the led reflowed on a 16mm Sinkpad board. I have used it in a Ultrafire M5 (small AAA light) and in a sk68-clone (AA-zoomie), I described it in that thread. Of course the amount of output was not all that special (but 96CRI, and it shows!), but because of the narrow emission angle it behaves very nicely in the various optics, in the sk68-clone the light loss is even less than the XR-E.
Thanks, Iām going to order a few, to try along with the 219B 
But I have no reflowing skills, guess Iāll have to stuck with 16mm boards.
Under 1A there is not much to be gained with a copper board anyway :-)