I’ve stated several times only a sphere will work to get a true reading, TA’s tube can’t wrap light around a circular object, his tube creates a sideways rotating effect that helps diminish the light. The light hitting a sphere slides down. Each light will give TA’s Pre-diffused chamber a different percentage of refection and thus can’t be fair.
My Aspheric shone 100% of it’s hotspot on the diffuser, my X80 around 50%.
Im also talking about frosted lens versus TIR lens in lights that have been tested to not read to far apart at turn on. Again twisting things to suit tube sales
Why are you accusing me of twisting things (lying) to suit tube sales? Do you think I’m getting a percentage of the sales or something? No, I paid my money just like everyone else did. I also paid to cover the cost of the little correction discs which I didn’t have to… I recommend the TA Lumen Tube because I think they work great. The concept is well thought out. I also have a JoshK sphere which is a round style sphere and the TA Tube reads the same lights only about 3% higher. This is extremely close for two completely different designs and made by different people.
Ps, AKB is mhanlen on this forum. Here is his lumen tube.
Right, how could you have one when he has not even sent them out yet?
I suspect something is very wrong with KG. His ability to understand and follow logic seems greatly lacking. Or else he is just “punking” us. I’m not sure which.
All of his posts make it seem I’m in some surreal alternative universe, aka, nothing makes sense. I just have to laugh and move on.
I think you’re missing the fundamental fact that LEDs vary in output across any one flux bin by up to 14. That means every factory flashlight out there could also be off of its manufacturer’s stated output by 14, and that’s assuming they don’t do anything iffy like quote emitter lumens or calculated lumens or whatever. Your S2+ and my S2+ could be as much as 14% apart and nobody did anything nefarious to cause that, its just how emitter binning works. You just can’t get any more accurate than that without testing and calibrating each individual light, and very few manufacturers want to go to that much trouble. So yeah, if you want to calibrate any light testing device to within closer than 14%, you need a test light source of known output. Which is what Maukka is now offering as has been linked before.
What are you even going on about? No one said any such thing. The spin starts and ends with you. You said people asked you to get a light recommended by Maukka when in actuality they asked you to get a light calibrated by him.
I have had several S2+ and they are within 14% of each other, obviously the difference is greater with my 3000k S2+.
When I tested my 6500k S2+ on the TA tube it was nearly 40% down on the manufacturer claim and just over 40% down on my estimate. I’m not sure if Maukka also averages 650 lumens give or take but it’d be interesting to know. They certainly ceiling bounce more than often quoted 1000 lumen Olight S2R.
If that’s directed at me, I have no idea if Convoy’s factory claims are accurate or not. I’ve had several factory lights that read as much as 40% less than stated, Armytek’s used to be terrible about it for instance. Nothing surprising about that.
KG_Tuning…… I am still waiting, & would appreciate an answer; to the question I have asked you twice before concerning the Convoy S2+ 6500k you mentioned.
Just presumed Maukka chose them for being universally close to specs.
I have 2 Convoy S2+ lights and tbh they are f garbage, I will not be ordering one of Maukka’s, not least as it means tuning a measuring device to 1 light which is complete folly. Ideally the TA tube should be calibrated to an Aspheric light and a pure flooder to iron out any beam pattern inconsistencies, even then the reflectors are part of the sphere on TA’s design, take the optics and lens out of the D4 when using TA’s tube and the output reading drops, wtf!!! I’m not a physicist or engineer but f* me.
As for the negative feedback I left TA on ebay, a few of my Ebay flashlight listings have been removed since for containing a link to my youtube review of them, wonder why?
He choose them because the driver put out a decent well regulated output. It had nothing to do with how much light they put out. Hence the need for calibration. Once calibrated it should pretty well stay that lumen no matter battery type or level of battery charge to a certain extent.
