I had rather pay extra and know I’ll get the real deal than to cheap out and get fakes. Some of our members have to try Ali as shipping is to expensive from anywhere else. Were lucky in the states, where buying genuine cells is affordable and easily obtained from lots of sources.
Just my 2 cents.
I have heard a lot of good things about this seller on ebay, another option. https://www.ebay.com/str/GenuineCells/
UPS Ground at $ 11.31 USD
USPS Parcel Select Ground (Slow Economy Shipping) at $ 11.51 USD
USPS Priority Mail- With Free Gift (2 packages) at $ 22.95 USD
UPS 3 Day Select (Hazardous Goods 1B) at $ 75.10 USD
UPS 2nd Day Air (Hazardous Goods 1B) at $ 80.79 USD
UPS Next Day Air (Hazardous Goods 1B) at $ 105.21 USD
………
They install the button tops themselves and do a great job to, I might add.
You’ll have the package in a couple of days too with UPS Ground. At least I did.
You getting a bunny as a pet? I heard they are alot more work than a cat and aren’t as intelligent. I wanted to get one before too but decided on a cat. Much less maintenance for my busy schedule.
Has anyone tested an emitter-swapped Q8? My tube is calibrated with maukka’s lights, and I get only 3340 FL1 lumens with an otherwise stock Q8 using LH351Ds and 30Qs. With 219Cs it was more like 2700 lumens.
I would expect that output with the 219C, but I’m thinking the LH351D should be close to stock output levels, right?
With FET drivers it depends on the amperage it’s pulling. You need max voltage to get highest output. Are you using button top or solder blobbed 30Q? Have you tried measuring it with only 3 cells and 2 cells to see if you get reduced output?
Are the battery ends and driver ring clean? Are any springs looking burnt or collapsed? Do all the cells drop to the same voltage after using the light for a while?
The measurement is with button top 30Qs from a reliable source. Flat top GAs produce a proportionally lower turn-on output of 3270 lumens. Cells discharge evenly and the springs look perfect. There was a small amount of crud on the contact ring, but cleaning it made no difference. The surface temperature of the head reaches 60°C within 3 minutes.
Testing turn-on lumens with different numbers of cells:
I’ve eradicated everything but diffuser bounce back from the TA design and my lights now measure relative to one another and close to Maukka’s results. No sidewalls before initial diffusion, no glue or ledges for spill to slide down the walls onto and be absorbed into, no advantage for sending most of the beam centrally through the 1st diffuser.
I’ve got thicker diffusion after TA’s 1st plastic clear diffuser to spread the light evenly, it’s just a case of getting the right thickness of diffusion before the sensor now to get readings up 20% on each light.
Strange thing is the Acebeam X80-GT is still reading higher than my DX80. If I added the theorised percentage increase on both the TA and my device then the X80-GT will be way over 30k.