Oh ok then, what about ~ 165mm? 
Thats why i wanted some strange form-factor like the TK 35.
PM me the build thread when you start. 
Haha, maybe something like the TK 35 form factor?
I know what you are after, but I honestly think you are getting yourself a little mixed up with what is available and possible.
At present it’s a bit like asking for 7 seat Minivan space, luxury SUV comfort, 4x4 off road ability, supercar speed but in something the size of a compact hatchback.
Basically it ain’t gonna happen and you’ll have to compromise somewhere.
When you said EDC, could you clarify as many people consider EDC to be pocket friendly (trouser pockets) torches. For me this rules out something like a C8 or an SRK. While both of these will fit in a jacket pocket, they are too big to carry all the time. The SRK loaded with 4 cells is also quite heavy too.
The reason I say this is quite simple. The MT-G2 really needs to be run on 2 cells to get the voltage it needs.
2xRCR or 14500 simply won’t give yo much runtime as they will be offering only 700mAh or so. You could build a fun light like this, but 10 mins or so is all it’ll offer, so it’ll have no actual practical use.
Which means you really are limited to 2x18650. The most common configuration is end on end, making for a longer light.
There are some torches that have the batteries side by side, but your options are limited. And such torches would IMO not be overly pocket friendly as an EDC.
If you are happy to look at other emitters then you’ll have a wider choice of body styles and shapes to consider and battery types. But if you want to stick with the MT-G2 then you will have to compromise elsewhere and most likely in physical size and runtime.
The Solarforce K3 would seem to be the obvious choice on a budget. Running it on a standard L2 body with 2xRCR (or 2x18350) will make it compact, but runtime will be very low. You really need the body extender to run 2x18650 if you want any kind of decent runtimes.
e.g.
L2 with 2xRCR = 8.4v and 700mAh
L2 extender with 2x18650 = 8.4v and 3400mAh
That’s almost a 5 fold increase in runtime.
That all said and done, I’m not convinced the K3 will offer the flood you are after. But I’ll answer that in my next post.
I think a common issue on here and in general when talking lights is what people actually mean by things such as “flood” or “throw”.
For instance, with a normal reflector you have two main parts to the beam; the hotspot and the spill.
The size of the hotspot is really determined by the size of the LED, e.g. using the same reflector an XM-L2 will have a larger hot spot than an XP-G2 because the XM-L2 is physically larger.
This is then closely related to throw, in that a wider reflector and especially in relation to the LED size will mean more throw. e.g.
-The same emitter (XM-L2) in a small 10mm reflector will offer very little throw and will be far more floody than the XM-L2 in a 50mm reflector.
-Or different emitters, such as an XM-L2 and an XP-G2 both in a 30mm reflector, the XP-G2 will have more throw.
Spill has IMO two main attributes, it’s size/diameter and it’s brightness.
Reflector depth (and bezel) can affect how big the diameter of the spill is, e.g. a shallow reflector will mean a wider spill area.
But more lumen output will mean a brighter spill.
Next up is the transition between hotspot and spill, this has several affects such as the visual impact and the contrast between spill and hotspot.
A SMO reflector will as a rule offer maximum throw and lumens (OTF) compared to an OP reflector.
SMO - should be a very crisp well defined hotspot with a very clear cut drop in brightness for the spill. The complete opposite of gradual.
OP - the hot spot should have a very undefined edge and the transition from hotspot to spill will be far more defused and blended. This gives the visual impact of a more even light/luminance and can make the spill look brighter. As you travel further out from the hotspot the spill will gradually get dimmer. The downside of getting this more even beam is slightly less lumens OFT and less throw.
Adding a diffuser does exactly that, it will defuse the light to be far more even (often used in photography). But diffusing the light will dramatically reduce OTF lumens and have a massive affect on throw/beam distance.
The reason I say all this, is depending on what you actually want and want to use it for, will have a big affect on what approach to take.
To get the most even light output will mean your beam distance will be very limited.
Getting a larger hotspot to light up a wider area but still retain some throw characteristics to the beam will be a very different light.
Or is it just about transition from hot spot to spill?
Theres lots of pictures here of different leds. lf you have any questions feel free to ask. DeDo is my abbreviation of dedomed.
Not necessarily. A good diffuser only reduces OTF lumens by like 3% or 5%, which is a small enough difference that it’s not really perceptible.
However, it does make the hotspot and throw dramatically less intense.
dazed1, what I want to know is what you have tried already and what you didn’t like about it. It’ll help provide better reference points for what is desired, and the solution might be easier/cheaper than expected.
The plan is on hold for now sadly, my modder friend is busy with some other stuff. I will make sure to report back my finidnings and what did i decide in the end, its alot of info for a relatively new guy regarding mods/flashlights
Thanks alot to all who helped me and give me great advice’s. This forum is seriously great!
@Chicken Drumstick, some serious posts there dude, thanks alot!
Wish I had been as diligent and as patient as you in my early purchases. Best of luck on making your choice. 
Any recommendations on drivers? I don’t have the BLF one you used.
Any 105c style driver can modified with the Zener mod, enabling 2 cells to run the MT-G2 from a driver designed to run a 3V emitter from a single cell. Pretty simple mod really, remove the diode at the positive lead and put a 200 ohm resistor in it’s place, then stack a Zener diode on top of the capacitor on the other side of the board. Voila!
Dazed, have you decided yet what to do? I read through your thread here and was left with a question. You had mentioned several times that you have four requirements for the light, MTG2, EDC-able, flood and use 18650 batteries. For me an EDC-able light fits in the pocket. My personal preference for an EDC-able light also needs a clip. Pocketable eliminates the 18650. Your requirements for run time are short so I suggest thinking over the use of 18350 batteries. In the dual 18350 category I think there are four key hosts to choose from, Convoy S3 and S2 , the Convoy M1 and the Sinner Tri-EDC 100mm Sinner’s host is the best option but is $15 over budget to start with. The S2 and S3 will get hot, by hot I mean with a FET driver it’s going to burn your hand before one minute is up. The S3 does not take a clip, the S2 does take a clip but is longer. Now the S2 does make a nice host for a triple XPG2 or triple XPL. A triple will use your 18650 battery preference and give a nice flood of light. The only 18650 host that appears somewhat pocketable is this variation that I can’t find in stock anywhere at the moment.
FWIW, I recently built a Convoy M2 with MT-G2 and 2x18350. It’s probably the smallest host I’d attempt this configuration with.
Results weren’t as good as I had hoped. It does put out a lot of light (~3000ish lumens), but the awesome MT-G2 “EZ-white” tint I kept hearing about was disappointingly cold, pretty far off from the 5000K spec I was expecting. Looks like a 2B tint, maybe 2C, but it’s supposed to look like a 3D or 3A. And the host made it really awkward to get electrical contact with the driver. For some reason, its driver also behaves strangely, and has difficulty changing modes (on-time / short-cycle memory). And the 2-cell config breaks low-voltage protection.
Personally, I prefer the tint and smooth beam pattern of a triple XP-G2 3D or triple Nichia 219B under a frosted Carclo optic. Or even a mixed-tint triple if you want to get adventurous.
BTW, both S2 and S3 can use a SF L2 clip, and it’s much sturdier than the common screw-on clip normally used for cheap 1x18650 lights. They just need a paperclip or wire added to the tailcap to allow contact with the non-anodized part of the body.
I have shorting issues on my S3 if my isolation gasket is off by a little bit. I used too thick of wire- 16 or 18 gauge. Takes up way too much space. I should cover with capton tape but I have been to lazy to go to radio shack to grab some. It’s funny, sometimes I think the MTG2 is too cool, but usually I feel it’s perfect. Mine is very close to sunlight at noon on a California clear summer day. -I’m sorry to hear you are displeased with yours. Did you get the 5000 or the 4000 kelvin?
I dream of many builds, one is the Ouchyfoot M1 with MTG2 and TIR as the flood of my S3 is too floody.
I got the 5000K MT-G2, but the actual tint is closer to 5600K. Maybe even 5700K. I think I may have gotten a bad unit as a fluke or something, because it’s pretty far off spec.
I dont want to be rude and this has been an intresting thread as I think I lot of us are looking for 2-3 cell “useable flood lights” but I noticed that Dazed lists a “Niwalker MM 15 @stock” in his inventory which unless I am mistaken is a pretty darn good flood and very close to what he is seeking. Maybe VN can “improve” things for Dazed for the budget he is looking for?
Review
New Vid fromVN
Mattaus has a Niwalker Vostro for sale cheap if this is any good for Dazed 1. I dont know about shipping costs though.
that Medusa light he sold for $75, wow! I am sorry I missed that one! Anyone make me one of those?
the Nitecore P36 is near that price… 
or the MM15 for 166 USD?
twice the price but double the LEDs 