Supfire M6? Very nice out of the box.
Thanks all for the answers!
if i understand this correctly, all i need is the drop in (i guess led and the metal part?) and Small sun host right? nothing else? i prefer the Smallsun because of the size of the head/reflector, and i guess its gonna fit perfectly?
Well, they say good throw on Fasttech, is Smallsun host, optimized for throw? i would like total flood based reflector, but around 50 mm + head diameter.
The ZY-T08 DOES NOT take a drop in, its much more in depth than a drop in tho it is doable. Check in the modding forum for Old-Lumen’s video series on how to do it. You also have to convert it to 2 series, it’s probably not a beginner mod.
Yes the -T08 is a thrower but putting a MT-G2 in anything will make it more floody.
Here’s another thread in addition to oldlumens thread.
I have built a few of the ZY-T08’s into MT-G2 lights and they are perfect in my opinion. They are very floody with a medium amount of throw. They are not a long light but still take the two 18650’s so you can get some good run time out of them. It’s a build that takes a lot of work because the battery carrier must be converted to series and the driver needs to be striped to use as a contact board. Then you have to file out the reflector to fit the emitter. However the results are fantastic and well worth it.
It’s a light I grab very often when going for walks, especially in the woods.
Send me a PM if you have any questions and I’ll be glad to answer.
How much run time you need? For ~$35 you can put an MT-G2 in a Convoy M1 with a contact plate, run it on 2x 18350's. Bright, floody, very compact, but only ~10 min. max. before you have to change/recharge cells.
Have you considered putting DC-Fix on a multi-XM-L2 light instead? This is likely cheaper and easier than building a MT-G2 light.
I’m currently using a diffused Blackshadow Terminator, and have a few different tints of XM-L2 on the way so I can make it wide-spectrum instead of cool white. You could do the same with a BST clone pretty easily.
That’s sort of my thought too…MT-G2 lights are more difficult due to the fact that their Vf is 6V, rather than the “3ish” of most other common flashlight LEDs.
I guess my question is do you really “need” an MT-G2, or do you just want it? I feel like other, cheaper LEDs could serve you well.
If you go with that BlackShadow Terminator clone, you can toss in XM-L2 T4 5B1’s, which have a CRI of >80 like the MT-G2, and you could mix it with the XM-L2 U2 2C and some of that DC-Fix (or you could do a DIY orange peel reflector by spritzing the existing smooth reflectors with clear spray paint) and you’d have a seriously floody light.
I’m not suggesting that you shouldn’t try an MT-G2 mod, but if it’s going to be your first mod you might want to start with something where the stakes are a little lower.
This should be a pretty easy mod, and since this fits drivers identical to the SkyRay King, you could build one of the custom OshPark drivers for it (or buy one from me ;))
I may end up having to use one of the custom drivers… and I’d kind of like to put one in my SRK, too. But for the BST, I’m hoping for one of the Quasar drivers DrJones made.
In any case, I’m going to want easy access to it so I can reflash it fairly frequently. It’ll take a little while to get the firmware how I want it.
Well i don’t want to be rude, or look like i skip your posts guys. But i’m totally lost on what i need and what i could get from vinh drop in, can anyone please go step by step of what parts would i need if i lets say get the module from vinh?
Or just make an list of parts which i will need to get, and what do i need to do, i have very skilled friend who can do all of this, but i got no idea what parts can i get from vinh for his 100$ offer, and what not, i’m not exactly a expert or i understand the terminology of words, drop in? is that a led with that metal thing right?
Also what i want from my light is an even beam patter, i dont want to see the hotspot, just an insane flood, i hate when the flashlight beam has 2 parts if you now what i mean….
just one equally bright from centar/sides beam….i hate visible transmission, that’s why i want MT G2 light, they have ticker beam compared to XM-L2 if that is the correct word? more mass of light maybe? sorry if this is confusing.
Okay, an even beam pattern, lots of lumens, and a neutral white color. What about runtime? How many lumens, and for how long?
For the flattest beam profile, you might want to look at an aspheric lens held very close to the emitter. For example, my UltraFire 838 produces a solid wall of light with very little difference in brightness between the center and the edge.
You probably can’t tell from the pic, but the beam is about 90 degrees wide and mostly consistent until it hits the sudden drop-off at the edge.
However, I find I normally prefer smooth beams which are brightest at the center but gradually dim toward the edge with no discernible hotspot. This can be achieved pretty easily on almost any light by adding diffuser film. DC-Fix “sand” works really well, and produces a beam which has exactly the same tint all the way through. Here are two SC52s, one stock and the other with DC-Fix:
It’s hard to tell there, but the beam on the right is actually a lot wider.
Another option is to use a mule (bare emitter with no optics). It produces an effect similar to a diffuser, but generally even wider. The trade-off is that the tint tends to vary at different angles, and the emitter isn’t protected.
If you look hard enough, you might be able to find a TIR lens which works, but this is pretty uncommon. Usually, TIR still has a hotspot. However, you could do a XP-G2 triple with a Carlco TIR optic and I hear the result is pretty nice. RMM at mtnelectronics.com builds these. I think you also can add diffuser film to a TIR if desired.
Thanks alot for the tips! yes i would like beam with gradual dimming, un-noticeable or at least the minimum possible. Didn’t knew how to put that!
So short list,
1. Gradual dimming - hotspot - spill/flood.
2. 2 batteries configuration, something similar to Fenix TK 35, or solarforce l2t if its length is no more then ~150mm that is, this will be something like edc…
3. I prefer thick instead of thin but long body/type flashlights.
4. Sorry not really fan of aspheric lens…or whatever they are called - zooming.
5. Runtime? i’m ok with ~ 2/3 min on max, (heat issues?) and about 40-50 mins on high would be good enough!
This is the effect, i want to achieve!
a small sun zyt08 runs on 2 18650’s side by side configuration huge reflector and hits right about 2475 lumens with Samsung 20rs. . You may want to talk to Relic 38 or Flow motion about modding one out for you.
Thanks for the tips!
How about Panasonic 3400 mah protected? will they work good enough, or maybe Fenix ARB-L2 2600?
Ah, so when you shine the beam into the distance, you want it to illuminate both the near objects and the far objects to roughly the same visual brightness?
If that is the case, ignore the suggestion for an aspheric. It doesn’t do that at all.
It’s too bad you don’t like the SRK, since it’s really good at this sort of thing, it has sufficient power and output, and it fits your preference for “thick instead of thin but long”. With a mild diffuser film on the lens, it wouldn’t even have an edge between spot and spill.
What are you planning to use the 2000+ lumen mode for? That’s enough to light up an entire football field.
In any case, a modded ZY-T08 should be able to do it. You still might want to add something to the lens to scatter the light though, since relic38 said his modded light has a very well-defined hotspot.
FWIW, I see the following size specs on these two lights: ZY-T08 174mm x 63mm, 322g. SRK 137mm x 59mm, 345g.
As for which batteries to use, you’ll need some pretty high-amp batteries to drive a MT-G2 at a decent level with just two cells. A SRK is less picky though, since it has twice as many cells to provide the same amount of power.
First of all thanks for your great posts, really helpful!
I don’t care much about throw, all i need is ~ 50 meters of even illumination in front, and on the sides 
Where can i get diffuser film for this lights on cheap? keep in mind i’m from EU, so i need free or cheap shipping worldwide, also does this film work same as plastic diffuser?
2000lm + is more like an insurance, that i will get even and powerful beam, if that made any sense. What is the best SRK option - price/performance ratio? what model offer the best flood, and is it a nice even beam i don’t like to see noticeable transition, only crazy amount of flood
I’m not sure where to get diffuser film locally. The best I’m aware of is DC-Fix Sand from Berlin Wallpaper. It should be available somewhere nearby. I’ve also heard that Glad Press-n-Seal works pretty well, but I haven’t tried it. These can be applied to almost any light, to make the hotspot and spill blend together and get rid of any rings in the beam.
A plastic diffuser is usually an opaque cone which fits over the light to turn it into a signal wand. Those are used for completely different purposes than diffuser film.
As for the SRK, it is one of the most widely-cloned lights… so it’s fairly difficult to predict what you will get. All I know is that CNQG usually carries one or two good “original” models. However, they also charge more than most. http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1460
I’ve heard that a Blackshadow Terminator clone can be good too, can be found for about the same price as a SRK, can handle a bit more output, and is probably a lot easier to mod. I’m not sure where to buy one though, and you might find the handle awkward. The real one can be found at IlluminationSupply on a really good sale right now, but it’s still pricey and shipping from the US isn’t cheap.
In any case, bigger (and especially wider) lights will generally just get more and more throwy, but you’re looking for floody. Smaller might be better in this case. Have you considered something like a Convoy S2 or S3 or S4? Those can get up to 1000 lumens, are floody with or without diffuser film, come in a wide variety of tints, and are much smaller and less expensive than the other lights mentioned in this thread. I find that they’re nearly ideal as a biking headlight, and I don’t even have to use the highest mode.
I will take a look at the SRK lights, thanks again for the great help!
If you’re willing to go to the SRK form-factor, I’d suggest going with the SupFire M6. Only one manufacturer (that we know of!), good build quality, much better thermal management