If they want to put only 5000K in the lights, maybe they would consider 4000K in the conversion kits.
For the conversion kits it is fairly simple to swap out the LED to a tint of your choice before installing.
If the 5000K choice ends up as undesirable as it looks like it is going to be I will skip the light and go this way
I would not call the 5000k undesirable, just a lower bin then the 4000k or 6000k options.
At this point they are basically going to wait and see what the response in to the cool white sale and then decide on the final tint for the NW after that. I am still hoping they will offer both 4000k and 5000k so I am not rushing the process.
Thanks TA for the group buy. I have submitted the form.
In for 1 CW, 1 lens, maybe 8x 30q
But if you combine numbers from 4000 with 4500 K and also 5000 K with 5500 K it is
61 to 41
warmer to cooler.
At the evening I like 4000 K more than 5000 K, it is nicer to the eyes.
And here my collection of user stories:
Here is TAs “bridge over a creek” story
GT under a NASA drohne [PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping. - #15156 by Texas_Ace
Mountainbiking [PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping. - #14568 by arficus
All I know if certain members here in BLF say it is a nice lamp / tint / LED I can trust them. And I will like the lamp too.
True… But why would you do that joechina?
It was generous enough dividing 4500K in half & giving a half each to 4000K & 5000k.
There are people who want 5000k that could live with 4500K. But they would have zero interest in 4000K. I am one of those.
Conversely…… There are people who want 4000K that could live with 4500K. But they would have no interest at all in 5000k.
So dividing 4500K in half is more than fair… the way I see it anyway.
The whole tint thing is personal preference anyway. It cannot be nicely put in a box and labeled…. because one “box” does not fit all.
So, the way I see it… It is best to cater to the preference of the majority if at all possible.
It appears Lumintop as well as most other light manufacturers look at it that way also.
Also…. thanks for the links you provided. Good reading too. I had already read 2 of the 3. I had missed the NASA one… but have read it now. :+1:
It still does not sway my preference however. 
And that preference is the ‘Truest Neutral White Possible’ without it being overly tinted one way or the other, warm or cool.
And if a slight tint must be present…. I lean to the cooler side of Neutral, not the warmer side.
Teacher you are right about personal preference - any step above 5000K is a bridge too far for me on this light - way too much glare in the cursed humid air here. (unless you just want a light saber) :innocent:
Yep…. Are you pretty far South in LA shirnask??
I have friends in New Iberia.
Not so far south, but most of the state is like swimming through the air 
I see…… :+1: Summers in most of Alabama ain’t much different. Although I must say this one has been somewhat mild so far. Which has suited me just fine…. 
Not as bad as for some but we have already hit 108F - too much in my old age
Yep… that is hot. We have not even broke 100F yet best I remember. Most days have been between 88F & 94F. Many days the humidity has been 55 to 65. Yesterday morning it was 54.
Extremely unusual for Alabama in the summer…… .
I reread all of these again last night joechina. All good reading. :+1:
But the one that stands out the most to me is TA’s “Bridge over a Creek” story… it has actual ‘side by side’ comparisons. It is a CW vs. a NW 3A. It verifies what I have been saying.
3A is 5000K - 5350K. It also happens to be my favorite tint, close to the Truest Neutral White as I mentioned above.
For me, 3A is closely followed by 2D in preference. Then 2A or 3D…. depending on the light.
I do not like the harsh blue of cool just as much as I do not like the yellow-orange of warm. Simple as that for me.
Edit to add: And ‘Green’ is horrible no matter C, NW, or W. :confounded:
I reposted TA’s “Bridge Over a Creek” story below. It is good reading…… 
…
TA wrote:
I figure I will repost my story of what turned me onto NW again in condensed form.
I had both a thorfire S70 with the CW stock emitter and a convoy L6 with the NW 3A emitter. I modded both of them with a TA driver and they were both making around 6k lumens. The thorfire was about 10% higher in both lumens and throw when tested on the meter.
I took them out with the family and was testing them on a bridge over a creek. First I turned on the S70 and it was an impressive beam, lit up everything bright and we thought it was really impressive.
That is until I turned on the L6, instantly everyone unanimously liked it more by a wide margin. The beam was more pleasing to look at, the colors were far more life like and what really shocked me was that it actually seemed both brighter and it easily threw further. I expected exactly the oppisote result so it shocked me.
With the S70 we could just make out the far bank of the creek.
With the L6 we could easily see the rocks, bushes and even the frogs jumping into the water.
I was so shocked that as soon as I got home I checked the batteries in both of them and re-tested both lights. Sure enough same results as before, the batteries were about the same voltage and the S70 still was about 10% higher on the meter then the L6.
After that I ditched CW altogether and looked at lumens completely differently. Ever since I have been focusing on high CRI NW LES’s even if I don’t get as many lumens and never looked back.
People that see my lights always comment on how good everything looks and wounder what kind of light it is since they are used to seeing CW LED flashlights.
The moral to the store is that paper numbers don’t tell the whole story but then that is the case for many things.
HOT OFF THE HAZG PRESS
Next Update - August 13, 2018
What does that mean?
It means it is so quiet you can hear a pin drop
/\. Priceless KB, Just Priceless!! :+1: . 