Mine i bought it as GT70…not kit….but i have only used it 4-5times so it would be sad if its finished already…was wondering if its the led,the driver or something in between that was the problem….the most easy would of course be to change the led…
Is it just like that on low?
The first lot of DX80 lights were burning out their XHP70’s in the same way, (some of the dies on the LEDs were going out) I had a XHP50 that lost 3 of its dies in a Haikelite MT01. I kind of lost trust in the XHP series of LED since then.
!https://imgur.com/a/qCowoug! One die is always dead,the light level ramps up and down as normal....but the level of light is very low,just a bit above moonlight at most...
So I got my conversion kit awhile ago, been way too busy to do anything with it, so today I got to it.
First things first, I’ve never dedomed before, but I watched some tutorials and got on with it. Only later realizing I needed to cut it no deeper than 1.5mm. Why is this? I cut it fairly deep, as deep as I could without hitting anything like bond wires or the diode itself. (Although I don’t see bond wires at all?).
Anywho, does this look ok? It looks crappy to me. But I have no real reference. It’s flat, but not smooth, from the looks of it, I didn’t touch it with my fingers. I used a brand new thin double sided razor to cut it. I ran the light on turbo for about 20 minutes total and it only smoked very slightly in the first minute or so. And I don’t see any black spots.
Thoughts? I have a spare emitter I can give it another go. You think it’ll smoke any more? Don’t want to ruin my reflector. I ran in until it was too hot to touch and it ramped itself down. Twice.
Also, I’ve done a lot of searching, and can’t seem to find any official word on Anduril. It’s not in TKs repository, and from what discussion I can find on it, the closest we have is the firmware for the MT09R, but I’m a bit confused.
Other than that I’m very happy! I just kept the original eswitch and soldered it onto the new driver. The rest was a breeze.
Thanks for the info. Good luck. :+1:
Well from my experiences… Over driving these LED’s creates some very extreme heat, so cutting it too close to the phosphorous could leave the silicone too thin, causing burn thru, sanding polishing could leave stress cracks/fishers in the silicone, weak spots causing burn thru, or if some foreign material is left behind from sanding and polishing. Also had a piece of debri land on the thin silicone, it burned thru the silicone and into the phosphorous before I even knew what was going on. Those were my experiences. Now I leave them alone or completely/cleanly de-dome them, regardless I will run the hell out of them on Turbo before I assemble the light with the reflector in it, I smoked up a few too many expensive reflectors, I was lucky to get replacements for them.
I’m not sure if your describing a problem or if your talking about the somewhat normal behavior of an led die not being able to glow when turned down to the minimum.
If all the dies start working normally if you ramp it up just slightly, then you are fine.
As discussed earlier in this thread, the very lowest level of the driver was designed to create a super low moon mode. Sometimes the power going to the led is right at the threshold for lighting up the dies.
It sounds like you torture tested it fairly well and it survived. Did you clean the led and mcpcb with some achohol? Make sure to remove any excess flux.
Looking at the pictures I think I see two little spots that seem dark. Kind of like there’s a little bit of debris on it. Are those still on there or is it just a trick of the light?
The MT09R has nothing to do with Anduril. What is it your looking for?
One die is dead… completely…the 3 that is left is barely giving low light even at full…i think maybe the led is the problem…
Okay, definitely a problem. Contact Leo@lumintop.com.
Maybe it´s possible, that current is to high for LED XHP70.2?
Maybe you bypassed the Springs in Carrier and current rises up in Turbo mode?
I did not use the FET-Driver with DD, since I was told, that this can be dangerous for LED in combination with unprotected high current Cells and low spring resistance…
EDIT (2018-12-12):
got my modded BLF GT (70) yesterday.
inside XHP70.2 shaved and polished, 5700K, little bit green.
Want to test it outside in the dark this night or tomorrow in the morning.
Maybe cooler tint is better for dedoming.
Does someone have beamshots with 6500K XHP70.2 dedomed compared to NW Version (4000K???) dedomed?
Thanks a lot.
Hey gang, I finally got a chance to install my CW conversion kit today. Worked like a charm (after a slight cleaning of the LED.) Bezel and head came off pretty easy with the use of a strap wrench. I took a pre and post conversion measurement just to see the difference in numbers. I’m using this super cheap-o lux meter at 4 meters in my garage with no other lights on, so take my measurements with a grain of salt.
Before conversion: (unknown battery voltage)
490 lux x100 @ 4 meters
After conversion: 4.06v batteries after test
425 lux x100 @ 4 meters
The hot spot is HUGE with the XHP75 in there, and I can feel the light heating up slightly just in my short test. Overall I’m really happy with the kit and can’t wait to play with it …use it tonight 
Question: I noticed the wires to the LED on the conversion kit are a smaller gauge vs the stock ones. I wish I had looked at the writing on the side of the wires to see the size, but the conversion kit looked to be 22awg vs the stock ones of maybe 20awg. Would swapping out wires to a thicker gauge increase output at all? Or is the driver regulated to where it really wouldn’t make a difference?
I just got the thing all back together so if the difference is tiny I’ll probably leave it as-is.
You could probably increase the amperage draw from the batteries by going to 18ga, but it’s already drawing a lot of amps. Same for bypassing all the springs. When you do this your getting into dangerous territory as far as heat with the LED. Too much amperage and heat can cause dies to be damaged. You won’t see a difference with your eyes, only a little increase with a lux meter.
I would probably leave it as is. Err on the side of caution for increased reliability and service life.
This may sound strange since I try to hot rod my L6 to get the most output, but smaller lights like the L6 only use 2 x 26650 so they see a heavy load and have voltage sag which kinda limits the amperage. The GT70 has 8 x 18650. So it’s not going to have the same voltage sag. It’s voltage will stay higher. If you bypass the carrier springs and/or use 18ga you really do get into dangerous high amperage for the xhp70.2.
IMHO, YMMV.
Thanks for the insight Jason. I think I’m going to take your advise and leave it as is. It’s already incredibly impressive as is. 
Well after getting my CW conversion kit and installing it and having issue after less than a couple min.
The original plan was to see how I liked the CW with dome on, which I ended up really not liking at all, then slicing the dome. Since this led failed I went ahead and ordered quite the opposite of the available tints from MTN. This is the XHP70.2-M4-3K, warm white. Loses some brightness by lux meter but not to the eye and the tint works much better for me. While at it i tried to inspect why the other one had a die go out. Thermal paste looked fine. But I went ahead and carefully removed all of it and replaced with some much better Arctic Silver 5. But when I removed the original led from the board I noticed little or no solder paste in one corner of the central part of the solder pad. I don’t know if this is why it stopped working but maybe. Anyway, I probably would have wanted to change it to something like this anyway. I love the new warm white dome on. Really happy with the whole project and I learned a lot while doing all this.
Obviously the original GT isn’t blueish at all, but here is it next to the 3000K 70.2
Quick outdoor shots of the 3000K WW 70.2. I won’t be dedoming this. I love that it’s almost exactly like a incan.
I’m not able to see your pics.
Ok, i think they might be fixed. I can see them on a guest account now.
If that worked here others:
Yep… I can see them now.
Ok. Thanks.
Here are some quick outside photos comparing a stock GT V GT 70.2 3000k
There is some moisture in the air and there are a few flakes of snow. The distance to my far tree line is about 300 yards.
stock BLF GT
GT 70
BLF GT
GT 70
