I had to put mine in a vice so I could use both hands to very slowly turn it. Maybe you need a second set of hands (on the strap wrenches) to help turn it?
There is no way I could open any of the lights I have opened by hand. I barely got most of them open with heavy strap wrenches and even that took 2 guys for some of them as I was worried about breaking the wrenches.
I am guessing some are tighter then others. If yours is a very tight one, then a heavy duty strap wrench is your only real hope.
I clarified my statement to avoid misunderstanding.
Has anyone else here experienced a āpoppingā sound slightly after turning on turbo? only does it once first time turning it on in turbo
Yes, they all do that. Itās the lens making a tink sound. Nothing to worry about.
oh good, thought it was only mine
Mine was also really hard to open, amazingly the wood was the weak part, not the tape.
I can totally recommend the wood-tape method, used it on 2 lights now.
The vice did no harm to my now GT70 
no worries 
/\ ā¦. 
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Sorry to revive an old thread, Iām not sure if there is a more appropriate place for the question.
I have recently received my GT70 and have enjoyed using it with batteries. I have however ordered the short tube, should be with me soon. I plan on splicing in a power lead from my car battery to the short tube which will be from about 12.6 to 14.4 volts.
My understanding is the light is happy anywhere above 12 volts. Am i missing something or should this work?
The light will be on a bracket, used for hunting.
A advice ?
At 12V the light will be quite dim but will work fine.
With a car running at the normal ~13.6v from the alternator it will be brighter but still not peak output. You will need closer to 15-16V input power for peak output.
Now you could get a cheap boost converter off ebay to bump up the voltage. I have seen 10A boost converters that should do the job. This would give you full power all the time, you would just need to be careful to not turn the power up too high or you will kill the LED.
Thanks so much for the info. As Iāll probably be using the light for extended periods I might start on the lower end so there is less risk of roasting the led. Iāll be sure to update here with the results.
Forgive me if this has been answered, I have searched the thread with no luck. Iām having some dramas.
I was out using my GT70 the other night and eventually the light seemed to be stuck on low, I assumed it was a low voltage cut off. I had been using it for a while.
I checked the cells and they were sitting about 3.8v - confirmed with the voltage test function on the light and a multimeter on the bench. That seemed a bit high for a cut off even with the battery at rest, but I wasnāt overly worried just yet.
I have now recharged the batteries and checked each one to make sure they are all a healthy 4.1v , and then in the carrier with 16.4, and then placed in the light.
The light is still stuck on the ālowā mode. I have gone from the ramping mode to the alternate UI and back, tried the factory reset, and no matter what it doesnāt get past extremely low levels of light. Basically stuck in moon mode. It does ramp up on the ramping mode, but only for about 1 second.
Is it broken? Or have I just accidentally put it in some weird safe mode or something ā¦ Any help is much appreciated.
Hmm, sounds like the LED might of died or possibly the driver but that is less likely. If the driver was the issue it would most likely not ramp at all and/or it would be brighter then moon mode.
Can you tell if all 4 dies in the led are lit up at itās lowest level (or slightly higher than the lowest level)?
If this where a 2 channel driver I might think the FET had blown and it was only ramping up and down on the low amperage channel. I think this is using a 3 channel driver, though. If it does have only 2 channels, the low amperage channel should be capable of much more than moonlight. So this problem doesnāt make a lot of sense.
If you try to hold the button 4 seconds or so, does it ramp up a little, pause, then blink as if to indicate the top of the ramp?
Oh dear Ace. Am i better off trying to replace the led myself or try use lumintopās warrantyā¦ ?
Yeah Jason the led looks fine. Just not bright. Itās like it hits a plateau and then blinks at the end. Ill add a video.
Replacing it yourself is by far the simplest option.
I am sure they can send you a replacement LED if needed or possibly reimburse you for a replacement if needed (cutter is in your neck of the woods, so you might be able to get a good replacement from them if you are capable of reflowing the LED).
Trying to ship a GT70 is going to be very pricey.
Interesting, that is well above moon mode, so that very well could be that the main FET channel died.
Easiest way to test this is to replace the FET but not sure if that is within your abilities.
Yeah, FET channel is dead. Probably the FET itself. It requires hot air to replace it. If you can solder, Lumintop might just send a replacement driver. Then you just need to solder the 2 wires to the led.
Maybe there is someone in Aus that can swap FETs? Youād only need to mail them the driver.
Maybe Lumitop sourced some āimitationā FETās that are all over the place as far as quality is concerned?
Ok. Thanks for the diagnosis gents. Much appreciated. Iāll start the conversation with lumintop and see what options they can offer. Iām very amateur when it comes to soldering but Iād have a go if i relly had to.