Have you considered a (zero-res) twisty switch ?
Nice work Scaru, Im curious about the switch too. Are you still using a stock S/F switch? They’re only rated to 3A as far as I know, I think the McClicky is rated to 5 but that still won’t do when you get it ironed out.
I used a S/F A001 head on my XP-G2 triple, mainly because I like the looks more but I think it may help move a little more heat away from the star…maybe.
I use Jetbeam tail caps on all my quads and triples in Surefire hosts.
I just twisted one on a Solarforce and El perfecto. Jetbeam tail caps
in particular a tail from an M1XM or SST50 as advised works great
and can handle the amps. And there on sale everywhere so you wont pay $30 per like i did or $220 for the friggin light for that matter ( Illuminationsupply, ouch)
Dean's wire makes high amp silicone wire in 22 & 24 guage and
can handle this type of work load. I have a bunch PM if you want
enough to rewire your torch..
Awesome work..And take the panties of that XM-L triple, its gotta breath. A triple XPG2 will output way over 2000 lumens.
I traded Scaru a p60 dive light host( not really but p60 fits)for some of his boards that uses a twisty (no switch). Unfortunately it is a fairly old plastic housing and would melt out of the water. I just nabbed 20’ of 20 awg Teflon wire from IS. Would you like me to pop a few feet in the mail to you?
Thats a sweet looking hotrod !
Yes, it currently is running the stock solarforce switch which has held up fine so far. In the long run it most certainly will have to be switched out though.
Thanks, it was hard to do. The soldering was probably the worst part which is why I dread replacing the wires.
Currently I'm thinking I want something with a fet but I'm not quite sure. I have a bunch of things on the way (one of those and a mcclicky and I'm going to see which I like more)
That's actually what I used on it and is limiting the current way to much. Thanks for the offer though.
Then it’s probably not the wires but the switch or drop in to host contact. Awg 20 is rated for 11 A in short wires(chassis wiring). Maybe some deoxit or steel wool where the dropin touches the host. Fwiw I’m betting it’s the switch but I don’t have anything to lose if I’m wrong. Good luck.
Sweet mod Scaru!
Excellent job, Scaru! That creature is beastly! I'm also betting it's nothing more than the tailcap that is causing the resistance. That little switch in the tail just isn't designed to pass along that kind of current the light wants. I'm surprised it's lasted this long. I'd figure out a twisty tailcap for it, ;)
Hi Scaru
Any more progress with your triple xm-l?
I’m thinking of attempting something like this someday 
Cheers
Matt
It's drawing 6.5 amps now, but I think a AW 1600 mah IMR battery would help.
Which hole burns through first, the wall or your pocket? 6.5 amps in a P60? Unreal!
Rufusbuck, there will hopefully be a 21 amp one soon enough. :D It was shipped today, via DHL.
Tell us more :bigsmile:
good lord that thing is sexy.
now.
how about a triple mtg2
It has 7 XM-L, see the thread about that one.
The boards were shipped, I'm negotiating a price for the LEDs, and the heatsink is on it's way.
Oh god, what is wrong with me. Now I'm wondering whether that would fit... I think it would.
6000 lumens from a p60 awaits.
better make sure to hook up your 5000 btu air con to the side of your host though.
That is serious stuff I’m keen to see how it works out
70+ watts in a package that size is a no-starter. It’ll slag itself before you can say “dirty diapers”…