I gues that the blue in the beam is uncoverted laser light that is scattered in the phosfor layer (just as blue in a white led is unconverted light from the blue pump under the phosfor), and that makes it less possible to control the uniformity and direction compared to the rest of the spectrum emitted from the phosfor itself that has completely random direction.
Looks like anyone that ordered the same flashlight under the Astrolux name is a going to be very disappointed since it’s manufactured by Jetbeam with the exact design.
Thats hard to say, since the RRT-M2S lived up to its claims of performance. There is a slight difference so the Astrolux version could be a revision which fixed the previous issues as you can’t find many if any reviews of the JetBeam RRT-M1X. We can only know for sure about performance once we get them in our hands and can test them ourselves.
I can confirm as I just got my Jetbeam RRT-M1X and the build is awesome however the performance falls well short from advertised and far below the W4 and the W30 and the first M1X and the Skylumen.
On my Neals LEP, been getting readings of 900+ kcd at 5m and 10 m. Best reading I got was 1025 kcd taken at 5m.
Not sure I trust my meters, cheap LX1330B (actually I have 3 of them with variance of up to 5%). Been shopping around and thinking of getting the Extech LT45. I see djozz has one. Wondering if it's a good one. With the LX1330B, the "max" function doesn't seem to work, so I can't do readings longer than 5 meters by myself. Hoping I could with the LT45.
On my LEP, I added 22 AWG spring bypasses. Indications were it would help, think it did, but my readings are too inconsistent to tell for sure. It's very hard to measure/see the readings even at 5 meters with this LEP.
I was hoping I could do a resistor mod to boost amps, though I haven't tried any rev engineering on the driver yet. Would not like to lose the panel or USB's, but might be able to swap in just the LED driver circuitry - it may be a challenge though.
Ooops! Made an offer on eBay for the LT45 at $255 (new), listed at $272, and it was accepted! So I'm obligated to but it. Didn't think my offer would be accepted, but least it forced me into getting a decent light meter...
Total cost is $277 with NYS taxes.
Should’ve tested the ceiling bounce or lumens first. I’ve been thinking of doing a bypass but I’m not great at soldering and don’t want to ruin it. I can have someone do it for me but I don’t know if it’s worth it. With a shockli 5500 mine only meaures about 750K @ 5m. At 2m I can get close to 900kcd if i unscrew the head a bit, not sure if this still remains more focused at longer distances though. Have to test it properly. What cell are you using? Using a Uni-T UT383BT btw.
tried a few: LK at 3.94V: 635 kcd, VTC5D, 25S, but got the best reading on a GOLISI 26650. It definitely does better on fully charged, or better cells, so figured bypasses should help. I'm getting about 2.4 amps measured at the tail. Thought I read someone measured higher amps, over 3, not sure now.
I guess it’s resolved now that you’ve got a new light metre but what I did was I use my phone camera to film the screen on the light metre I just took a video when I was took readings so I could look back on them and do long distance measurements
True, that would do it 
. I've been wanting a better light meter for along time now.
Dang, just found djozz's review thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/53294 - gotta read it :FACEPALM:
Edit: Ok, somewhat relieved. Looks like the LT45 is pretty decent
I measured over 3 amps with the shockli (UNI-T UT210E) and it wasn’t fully charged. I think the exact amount was 3.2A or something. The output doesn’t change even down to 3.85v for some reason. It is a bit brighter with a fully charged cell but drops within seconds and stays there for a while.
ChibiM (Marcos) measured 3.73 amps in his review. Mine is pretty solid in the 2.3-2.45 amp range on the best cells, measured with a clamp meter. Wonder is they changed the design recently. All it would probably take is swapping a resistor to lower the amps.
Yours and ChibiM's is definitely different from mine. Info on this is sketchy at best (no manual, no name) and wouldn't count on Neal finding ot more, but I could try.
My copy of the unbranded LEP consistently does a bit over 1 Mcd (I measured it at 12.5 meter, but last time I measured was 1.08 Mcd at 7 meter), and I just measured a current of 3.0A on a Shockli 30A 5500mAh which was at 4.17V resting voltage (clamp meter with thick copper shunt on the tail).
I have not done any bypasses.
I'm not trusting my light meter readings, but the amp readings are definitely lower than what you guys are getting. I bought mine on Dec 19th. I tried on a fully charged GOLISI 26650 today and could not repeat the higher reading I got the other night of over 1 Mcd. Today was roughly 900 kcd.
It's still better than the spec'd, so not bad but might have to research a resistor mod. Problem is the driver design could have the resistor in an inaccessible position.
djozz - do you think the LT45 I got was a decent deal? Not sure if anything better is out now in this price range.
I also forgot to add that while a 40T doesn’t fit in mine, I did measure the current and it measured less than the shockli for some odd reason. Maybe the contact wasn’t good? Also mime didn’t come in the same packaging as Marco’s. Instead it came in a cheap white cardboard box just a bit bigger than the light itself. Neal did give me discount though so maybe he sent a slightly used one??
I really should do some bench measurements of voltage draw by the laser module. Wonder if I could replace the driver, if a 7135 based driver would work ok, or some other alternative. I'd assume guys have been hacking, errrr modding, lasers out there.
Or maybe the laser module itself changed? Hhmm.....
I think the LT45 is a good deal. The hardest part to do right is the spectral response and that they have done reasonably well so it is just as accurate for all types of white light. I like that you can store a correction factor. You can only really use it if you have a calibration light source or another luxmeter that you are very sure of but it is still nice. An alternative use for the correction factor is that you can enter the multiplier of your lumen measuring rig and get a direct readout of lumens instead of having to calculate it every time.
Thanks! 
Just in case someone wants to buy me a gift…
Apparently you need some sort of security clearance to buy that thing!