@ToyKeeper does a factory (or hard) reset only erase user settings but keep the latest firmware?
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Iâm not TK, but since you replied to me (and since I actually know the answer): resetting an Anduril light (whether hard or soft) only changes the RAM/EEPROM (that is, the lightâs configuration). The only way to change the firmware is to actually flash a new one into the light.
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If you mean the TS10, nope since (with @thefreemanâs otherwise excellent driver) it would get the preflash bug, which the original TS10 driver does not suffer from.
But perhaps with a @loneoceansâdriver it would (since AFAIK it doesnât have the preflash bug).
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Wouldnât that be easy to fix (or at least greatly mitigate) by using better resistors, eg ones with 1% tolerances? Case in point, it looks like they are about the same price (or even cheaper) than 5% ones:
Thank you for being respectful. Itâs great to see others with a different opinion not being rude. The TS10 is an awesome flashlight, I carry mine (V2) with my D3AA (519a 4000k) every day. If the KR3AA did exist it would become the companion to the D3AA. Id purchase two KR3AAâs, a SFT-25R for throw & a 519a 4000k for flood.
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[quote=âDc38, post:7667, topic:57210â]
like when a carâs next gear ratio is off
[[/quote]
this post](Emisar D3AA driver technical information - #98 by thefreeman) discusses sense resistors as the reason for the gear change
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I did report that, although actually it is still there but barely noticeable⌠tbh, I should do more thorough testing after bedtime. My initial assessment was not in full darkness.
I do believe you that the preflash is still visible. Would you also agree that it is at very low brightness? 
Im trying to be more tolerant of preflashes. Ive been using a Zebra lately⌠the preflashes on that driver are ridiculously worse than on the D3AAâŚ
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I donât know the actual tolerances, or the details of the components used. I didnât make the hardware, and the numbers I gave were only examples to demonstrate the concept. It may already be using 1% or better. The point is that any variance at all will make it hard to match the transition between âgearsâ consistently on every item produced.
Similarly, it sounds like there may be some variance causing a preflash on some items but not on others. Your individual light may simply have something a little different about it which is apparently not fixable by firmware. And neither of mine has any issues.
As far as I can tell, the preflash is unusual⌠not typically present. It is absent on all 5 of my lights with drivers from thefreeman, and I have not been able to find many reports of that type of issue.
If you could, that would be very helpful.
Iâd like to know if there is any perceptible difference in preflash between the 0.6ms, 4ms, and 12ms versions of the firmware.
Depending on the results, I may modify the official d3aa code to use a different timing⌠just whichever timing has the least-visible instability at startup.
My video isnât loading, but the preflash is sublumen, and imo kinda adds character to the light. Itâs like a faster version of the boot routine that old halogen lamps used to have, or even some of the newer old BMW headlightsâŚ
Phonetically, if there were a sound to the preflash boot sequence⌠BzztâŚdzhoooummmm!
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I tested for preflash on firefly in the middle of the night.
There is No Preflash with floor set to level 5 of 150, which on my meter reads 0.01 lumens.
I can barely see any preflash, even on level 1, which I dont actually use. It is dimmer than necessary.
I only tried the 6ms and it is nice.
So imo the new firmware is a good update, it does eliminate preflash on Firefly low.
the flash when turning on between 10 up to 20 lumens is still there. If I use Smooth Steps it shows as a stutter when I turn the light on. If Smooth Steps is off, I see a flash. I believe the underlying flash is at about 25 lumens, cause above that output level, I dont see it.
Thank you for your amazing firmware!
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