The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

Maybe someone can help…

A friend of mine wants my Astrolux FT03 XHP50.2 with NarsilM v1.3, but he wants it as a one mode light, always turbo…
What settings should I use but still keep temperature step down.
I tried modes and only 100% but then it seems it doesn’t step down at all and get’s way to hot.

Any input is welcome

Thank you!

I have a stupid question, can a single XHP 70.2 led be used on a MT09R driver without burning it up ?

Does anyone know what cell is under the wrapper for the ACEBEAM batteries given for the:

X65 MINI - 4 Li-ion 18650 IMR 3100 mAh 20A ARC18650H-3100.They are Protected

My guess is 30Q OR VTC6?

,Thanks

I don’t have detailed notes on the latest NarsilM, but I know in NarsilM v1.0 when you are in “modes”, the thermal and timed stepdown (only active when at 100% Turbo) drops output down to the next lower level. (In ramping it drops down a percentage) So maybe if there is only 1 level total, the stepdown has no next level to reduce to so it just stays at Turbo. This is my guess.

Does you friend plan to not hold the light? Thermal stepdown is like a courtesy for you hands. It’s not necessary, but it’s nice to have.

Why are they insisting on one mode, do they find ramping complicated? With NarsilM on ramping mode a double click from on or off automatically goes to Turbo every time. Then a single click turns off. Thata pretty easy, plus you can still adjust the brightness if you want.

Try this, switch to mode sets with the default 4 modes, then switch mode order to High to Low.

I tried this on my GT Mini which has v1.3. This seems to duplicate a single mode light as long as you turn it on and wait at least a second or two before trying to turn it off. It feels like a single mode Turbo light. I didnt try the thermal stepdown, but I assume that will still work. See it that fits your needs.

Yes. It’s basically a FET driver and a single 70.2 is used with FET drivers all the time. The only issue I can think of is the total resistance to the led might be borderline too low. 4 high drain 18650 have little voltage sag and I think the 5 springs on the MT09R are either doubled or bypassed depending on which version of the light you have. If you want to remove 2 of the leds, I’d recommend running only 2 batteries if they are high drain. 4 batteries if lower drain like high capacity cells. If you want to run 4 high drain batteries, then maybe remove all bypass wires on the springs. This should add some resistance and not over stress the 70.2.

Keep in mind the MT09R had several different driver versions. The ones running Haikelites UI did not have proper thermal stepdown. The NarsilM versions did.

I could not find anything conclusive, but Maukka tested them here and believes they could be VTC6. He measured about 3,000 mah. I dont know why Acebeam lists it as 3100mah.

If it is a VTC6, just keep in mind that it is rated at 15A continuous. It can do higher than that, just not continuously as it gets too hot. Acebeam puts 20A on the label as that is what the protection circuitry trips at.

How much does a shadow weigh?

Thanks.

I have some MJ1 UP BT I can use for spares. I think they have just enough amps for this[X65 MINI] Light.

“Ours go up to 11.”

A shadow is just a lack or reduction of photons. Since photons have no mass, they have no weight. So a shadow weights the same as the lack of shadow which is zero. :stuck_out_tongue:

Do you know how many amps it pulls on Turbo?

I don’t understand what your saying.

No I do not. This is what it says on Acebeam website.

1. The light must be powered by 4 x ACEBEAM ARC18650H-310A battery with 10Amps of current or the major brand batteries with the same Voltage, Capacity and Watt hour ratings as original. The light may not be turned on when using other brand battery with the less current.

The output is regulated, but I dont know if it’s a 12v Buck driver or a 6v Boost driver. I cant seem to find detailed driver info on it. If the battery pack voltage is 6v then it’s a Boost driver. If it’s 12v, then it’s probably a Buck driver.

They advertise it as 12,000 lumen, but no way are 5 xhp35-hi putting out 2,400 lumen each. I’d say each led at most is pulling 2.5A. So 12.5A at 16v if a Buck driver. Probably 10A is more realistic (2A each led).

A Boost driver could probably do more Turbo runs, but draw more amps.

Can you measure the voltage coming out of the battery holder? I’m just curious.

Skylumen says MJ1 will work fine.

I do not have the light yet. Arrives Friday and I do not have equipment to measure.

The batteries it comes with will work for awhile. I can try the MJ1 and see what happens. If Skylumen says they work fine[and he mods it a bit] then they probably will.

I may also get 4 X Molicel P26A BT after that/backup. :sunglasses:

.
Thank You Jason for taking time to explain that. :+1:
I have a better understanding how a FET driver works now.
So this light will use 2 x 30Q’s at 6v.

chuckle…… :+1: :beer:

I have a push button switch purchased at Lowes that reads 250vac @ 3amps , 125vac @ 6amps how many amps can it handle at 6vdc ?

It’s hard to say. A quick google search showed:

DC Rule of Thumb

For those switches that list an AC voltage rating only, the “DC Rule of Thumb” can be applied for determining the switch’s maximum DC current rating. This “rule” states the highest amperage on the switch should perform satisfactorily up to 30 volts DC. For example, a switch which is rated at 10A 250VAC; 15A 125VAC; 3/4HP 125-250VAC, will be likely to perform satisfactorily at 15 amps up to 30 volts DC (VDC).

So maybe 6A at least? Sometimes you have to try it out and see if it burns up or not. Some clicky switches handle way more power than they are rated.