First make sure your 35Es are fully charged and then retest the light.
However it could be that the light simply needs batteries capable of higher discharge rates. The Samsung 35E can do 8A whereas the 30Q can do 15A. This might be why Fenix chose 3000mah batteries for their pack.
This is not true. You are refering the max sustained output from 4.2v to 2.6v while not exceeding the maximum safe temperature the manufacturer provided. Both 35E and 30Q can output much higher amperage than you stated. The 35E is rated at 13A non-continous.
On top of that Fenix actually recommended a 3500mah cell (probably their own 3500mah, but Iām not sure what cell is under their wrapper). The Fenix 3500mah cell may have a high output protection circuit.
I guess I assumed his cells had a good charge on them. Thatās always important.
I think the big concern here is that protection circuits are added by 3rd party companies and they can vary a lot. You can have a 35E with a range of outputs. Common protection circuitry max outputs are 3A, 5A, 7A, 10A and 15A. If swabs got some cells with 7A circuitry and the light draws 10A, it will shut down on Turbo. Iām not familiar with this light, some research is in order to see what its requirements are.
The Samsung batteries were fully charged on my Nitecore charger, just prior to using them in the Fenix. I donāt see any thing on the batteries that indicate 3A, 5A, 7A, etc.
It sounds like I made a rookie mistake and was only focused on high mAh instead of amperage output. Good to learn something everyday.
I canāt find any technical reviews of the LR40R, but I did figure out it uses 18 x xpg3 for 11,000 lumen, then a single led (maybe xpl-hi) at 1,000 lumen to get the 12,000 lumen rating.
For 18 xpg3 to hit 11k out the front lumens youād need roughly 1.8A per led which is about 32 amps at 4.2 volts total. The battery pack appears to be 4P so you divide the load and each cell needs to generate about 8A. That is uncommonly high.
18650Battery Store sells a protected 35E with a twin MOSFET protection circuit with a 10A limit.
IMRBatteries doesnāt list the protection circuitry limit on their 35E.
Banggood is not showing the protection circuitry limit, but Iād bet itās not gonna be 10+ amps. Very few people require that high of amperage so they buy the cheaper protection circuits.
If it were me, Iād remove the protection circuitry, add a new sleeve and a solder blob. That should work just fine assuming the cell length is long enough for their battery tube . Iām not a fan of protected cells in high power lights.
You could get some protected cells like the link I posted, but they are a bit pricey at $7 x 4 plus shipping. I. Also guessing that 8A is the current draw for each cell. A 10A protection circuit might be fine, but if the flashlight is less efficient overall than Iām predicting it may draw a bit more amperage. You can get 30Q button top with triple MOSFET for a 15A limit, but they are $9 each plus shipping. This is the cheapest around. The Fenix cells look to be about $22 each.
Just to confirm, when you try to go to Turbo does it seem like the power shuts off?
I click the button to go through the light levels, and there is only low, medium and high. Itās like the torch was made with only three levels. No abnormalities such as flickering, going dim, or shutting off on its own.
Hmmm, it may not be the protection circuitry in the batteries tripping.
So you have the stock battery pack and then the 4 new cells you bought, right?
With the battery pack you have 4 levels and with the 35E you only get 3 levels, no brightest level, correct?
(Didnt you say before that it normally had 5 levels and the 35E make it have 4?)
Maybe the driver is detecting a lot of voltage sag and not allowing Turbo to activate. You see this on boost driver designs a lot. I donāt think thereās any technical info on this driver as people typically donāt want to void their warranty on such an expensive light. So it might have some circuitry to prevent Turbo if the voltage is not high enough.
Your 35E cells are fully charged, right?
Make sure the bare metal contacts around the battery tube are clean.
I dont have any other guesses at the problem. Fenix is one of those brands that not a lot is known. You might try contacting them and explaining the situation to them. They may know the issue.
Yes, I have the stock battery pack, and the four new cells I bought.
My bad, I got confused with the number of levels. There are four levels of brightness for throw. There are five levels of brightness for flood. They are controlled by separate little buttons that sit side-by-side.
With the Samsungās I only get four levels of flood, instead of five. But, I get all four throw levels of throw.
Yes, the all four 35E cells are fully charged, fresh off the Nitecore charger.
I just checked the bare metal contacts to make sure they are clean. They were clean looking, but I gave an extra wipe down. But still have only four levels of flood with the 35E cells.
I appreciate all the researching and troubles you went through to help. Some day when finances allow, I will pick up another Fenix battery pack.
A friend of mine wants my Astrolux FT03 XHP50.2 with NarsilM v1.3, but he wants it as a one mode light, always turboā¦
What settings should I use but still keep temperature step down.
I tried modes and only 100% but then it seems it doesnāt step down at all and getās way to hot.
I donāt have detailed notes on the latest NarsilM, but I know in NarsilM v1.0 when you are in āmodesā, the thermal and timed stepdown (only active when at 100% Turbo) drops output down to the next lower level. (In ramping it drops down a percentage) So maybe if there is only 1 level total, the stepdown has no next level to reduce to so it just stays at Turbo. This is my guess.
Does you friend plan to not hold the light? Thermal stepdown is like a courtesy for you hands. Itās not necessary, but itās nice to have.
Why are they insisting on one mode, do they find ramping complicated? With NarsilM on ramping mode a double click from on or off automatically goes to Turbo every time. Then a single click turns off. Thata pretty easy, plus you can still adjust the brightness if you want.
Try this, switch to mode sets with the default 4 modes, then switch mode order to High to Low.
I tried this on my GT Mini which has v1.3. This seems to duplicate a single mode light as long as you turn it on and wait at least a second or two before trying to turn it off. It feels like a single mode Turbo light. I didnt try the thermal stepdown, but I assume that will still work. See it that fits your needs.
Yes. Itās basically a FET driver and a single 70.2 is used with FET drivers all the time. The only issue I can think of is the total resistance to the led might be borderline too low. 4 high drain 18650 have little voltage sag and I think the 5 springs on the MT09R are either doubled or bypassed depending on which version of the light you have. If you want to remove 2 of the leds, Iād recommend running only 2 batteries if they are high drain. 4 batteries if lower drain like high capacity cells. If you want to run 4 high drain batteries, then maybe remove all bypass wires on the springs. This should add some resistance and not over stress the 70.2.
Keep in mind the MT09R had several different driver versions. The ones running Haikelites UI did not have proper thermal stepdown. The NarsilM versions did.
I could not find anything conclusive, but Maukka tested them here and believes they could be VTC6. He measured about 3,000 mah. I dont know why Acebeam lists it as 3100mah.
If it is a VTC6, just keep in mind that it is rated at 15A continuous. It can do higher than that, just not continuously as it gets too hot. Acebeam puts 20A on the label as that is what the protection circuitry trips at.
A shadow is just a lack or reduction of photons. Since photons have no mass, they have no weight. So a shadow weights the same as the lack of shadow which is zero.